After testing the CAN wires on that circuit (all reading 60ohms), checked all powers and grounds to the Skid control ECU. All of them were good, so I ordered a used replacement skid control ecu (found the same part number from a 2007 highlander hybrid). When replacing the ecu I unhooked the negative on the battery for it, swapped it out. Once I cleared the codes, there was no longer any ‘current’ codes, no lights, and the brakes and power steering work better than they have in a long time .
Lastly, I had to do the zero calibration on the new unit.
I did not have to go to a dealer or use special software to have any calibration done on the ecu (zero point calibration done with diagnostic tool), I’m not sure if that’s because I used an ecu from the same model (off by a year), or because it does not require it.
Happy I got my car back, if anyone has questions on the process, lemme know.