- This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hi, I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey with 275,000 mi on it. Here’s the issue, It will start, run till warm (approx 10-12 min) stalls abruptly, will not restart for 1 hr. Have replaced the main relay, the fuel filter, tested the fuel pump and pressure (both good). Once car is warm and will not re-start, pulled spark plug cable, no spark. Pulled Dist. cap and tested coil, plenty of spark. Replaced Cap and rotor, (although both looked in good shape), restarted car and it stalled after 10-12 min, tested plug lines after stall, no spark. Help. please. maybe ECU? sensor? I’m stumped.
-
Replies
-
Here are four possibilities: 1) Main (PGM-FI) relay, 2) Ignition switch, 3) Ignition coil, 4) Igniter.
1) The main relay develops poor solder joints and when the unit warms up the circuit opens and causes the fuel pump to quit and the engine to stall. The engine will not restart until the relay cools down enough for the solder joint to re-connect. The solution is to replace the main relay or open it up and re-flow the solder on the joints inside. This is a fairly common condition.
2) The ignition switch on many Honda vehicles has been known to have issues with electrical arcs wearing down the contacts inside. When the switch warms up due to the electric current passing through it the circuit opens and cuts the power to the ignition. The engine will not restart until the switch cools enough for contact to be restored. This has a high incidence rate but isn’t as common as the PGM-FI relay failure.
3) The ignition coil resistance can test good but still be bad, such as when there is a case crack and the voltage “leaks” to ground instead of producing a spark–this is not a fairly common condition, but does happen enough to be a recognizable possibility. The reason the coil tests good is because there isn’t a failure in the coil windings itself, and still produces the correct output, just that the output leaks to ground instead of going to the spark plugs. Also, many ignition coils can test good on the bench but fail under load. Something to keep in mind.
4) Igniter. This device is responsible for opening and closing the circuit of the ignition coil which produces spark. This module is inside the distributor and is known to produce your symptoms when it is heat soaked. The engine will stall and not run again until the igniter cools down. This isn’t as common as the main relay or ignition switch, but is perhaps more common, or at least as common, as the ignition coil going bad.
Have replaced the main relay already so I will now start replacing the coil, trigger, and ignition switch. Will let you know if it works. Thanks so much!
Before you replace test first.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Tested coil, had some spark, not really strong. Replaced coil and van ran for 3 hrs (instead of 10 min.) before shutting off. Restarted but ran badly. Ordered igniter. My question: Replacing the coil seems to help considerably. Will the igniter AND coil both go at the same time? After all, the van has over 275,000 mi on it.
I would have probably replaced the whole distributor instead of the parts individually. Reason being the distributor has almost 300k on it and is probably worn as well. That being said, since you already have a new cap, rotor, and coil, and just ordered a new igniter, then maybe you can find a scrapyard distributor with a lot less miles on it and put all your new parts on it.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.