1998 dodge intrepid overheat CALLING ALL TECHNICIANS!!

Do a block test to rule out possible head gasket failure.

Perform a visual inspection of the timing belt area but in more specific the water pump area and how tight the timing belt is at the pump.
3.2 and 3.5 engines I have seen the belt be a little loose causing a slippage of the water pump pulley causing an overheat condition but only at elevated engine speeds.
Confirmation would be to actually grab the water pump pulley and try to turn it with timing belt tension still applied. This can be accomplished without full disassembly of the timing belt covers and if it turns that is enough to warrant a repair because the pump cannot flow if the pulley slips, if not then you have gone the wrong direction but you might consider this being a perfect opportunity for checking the belt for cracks and oil seals leaking which would of course problems as well.

I would hook up a bi-directional scan tool and command the fans on to confirm they work but also testing the circuit integrity and pcm drivers, relay etc…

A pressure test would only be for the discovery of a coolant loss and would be an idiotic waste of time if there is no evidence that supports an actual coolant leak exists not to mention a complete waste of money for a test that is priced twice of what the actual face value of the test should cost.

+1 on the block tester.
A leak down test will also tell him if it’s a bad head gasket too.
I do both a pressure test and leak down when diagnosing cooling system problems, I like to be 100% sure on both test.

This may or may not help, but at 88k on a ’98, it is time to change the timing belts and water pump. What size engine does it have the 2.7 or 3.2? The 2.7 had a couple of recalls on them, check into that, but I use to own a 2002 Intrepid 3.5HO and at 93,000 miles the water pump was completely trashed. Mine did not start to over heat, I was just tearing into it to change the timing belts and got lucky.

I am not saying this is what is causing your issue, but you need to be aware that the GEN II intrepids had some tweaks to the engine and drive train that were not worked out till later years, and considering yours in on the upper end of the generation change, I would be performing the scheduled maintenance at the chrysler’s factory specification mileage.

But to re-iterate, follow the guidlines from your other post on checking for coolant (Do a pressue test, but do it yourself, $125 to test is outrages) leaks and start to track it down that way, you do not want to warp the heads or cause any internal damage.

When you say over heat, is it maxing out the temp guage and you are getting your “Check Guages” light turned on, or are you seeing the temp guage in the 3/4 mark?

Also, how does your coolant look, is it dirty brown or a nice orange? I am wondering if you might have blocked coolant passages, but this is an extreme guess, at 88k and being a ’98 I am wondering if maintenance was performed properly on all the fluids?

Come to think of it, are you in the Dallas area? I will help diagnose it.

This sound like a thermostat problem to me. ….I know you changed it – BUt the fact thats its hot on top and wam down below???
Maybe the radiator is clogged? DId you reinstall it right?

Do both your upper and lower hoses have pressure ??

STILL ran hot… so i thought ok maybe its the water pump… but coolant has GOT to be flowing.. upper hose gets hot.. lower hose gets warm…. full resevoir tank goes low

Wait what????How do you know???

Like they said. I would get the block tester……
I really dont think its a head gasket problem tho.
It sounds like something is clogged.

Heres your block tester my brother (Get one for me since youll be there lol jkin) Been dien to test this baby.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Block-Tester/_/N-25dh?counter=1&filterByKeyWord=block+tester&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=391378_0_0_

Quoted From EndSupremacy:

EricTheCarGuy actually has a video on how to diagnose this problem. I suggest you watch the whole video. Here is the link to his video:
http://www.youtube.com/user/EricTheCarG … UzOTnsWImI

This video should be very helpful. He not only tells you the possible causes, but he also shows you how to check them. Chances are you will find out your issue with this video. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.

Took the words right out of my keyboard. The video also shows the ‘block test’ however I would also watch this video on bleeding the cooling system as if it’s not done correctly air could still be in the system causing an overheat, if you follow the steps in this video you’ll be able to get all the air out. If you do this and you still have issue do the block test to see if you have a combustion leak as has been suggested.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU

Quoted From WDHewson:

I had an old British beater as a teenager.

It took most of the summer to figure out the cooling system problem. No coolant leaks, all perfect, but it overheated at anything but idles or very slow driving.

We finally deduced that coolant pump suction at higher speeds was collapsing the lower radiator hose and pinched off flow. When inspection the engine with the hood up at idle, the suction was low and all looked normal.

Maybe replace your hoses for some good stiff ones.

Don’t you hate it when there is a problem due to something stupid?