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^ yeah it was was tampered with alright, i read about the seal or paint mark on the screw but never really seen how it looked but i knew for sure it was gone because the slot for the screw was kind of abused i had to use a pretty wide flat head for it. yea i had to go in tighter because when i removed the iacv connector i was suppose to hear like a decrease in idle but it remained the same as i saw on my tach no change and was at close to 800rpm. so i can see how that can confuse the ecu and possibly the iacv, oh i forgot if anyone mentions the iacv is clean
^I appreciate your follow up on the advice given. I’m having issues on an older Civic I believe is relative to the IACV, but that’s for another thread. Thanks for sharing your experience.
When you removed the connector for IACV, was it with the engine off after warming to full-temp? Then you proceeded to restart?
In my manual for ‘setting the factory idle’ back to default/checking the idle, it specifically mentions to get the vehicle to operating temperature, then shut the engine off in order to remove the IACV connector. When restarting the car initially assist the engine RPM to stabilize at 1,000 yourself and then slowly relax the throttle until it idles safely on it’s own: proceed to check idle speed relative to speed screw itself. For my manual, it states somewhere around 420 +/- 50 RPM with the IACV not in use and without any load(the cooling fan not running, headlights off etc etc). Only the parking brake applied since equipped with a m/t, IIRC.
oh no problem HBVX,
im glad to share information to help othersT)for the idle reset procedure my manual stated i had to allow the engine to reach operating temperature and that the fan must turn on for one cycle then
you remove the iacv connector to disable it and if it happens to stall then you restart it with foot slightly depressed on gas pedal and keep it at 1000rpms and slowly let off ( in my case i did not encounter this because my idle remain the same ) then you proceed on adjusting the screw and set the base idle ( my car’s base idle called for 550rpm in park with no load,no accessories on ) im not sure if my manual is much different from yours but after i did this i shut the car off reconnected the iacv and in my under hood fuse box i had to remove the clock fuse to reset the ecu then start the car and let it idle for one minute with no load, then i had to turn on headlights for one minute then turn them off and follow up with the ac on and on max for one mintue then i gussed it is program to the ecu from then on hopefully that helps^Yeah, that’s what my manual basically says in more detail after the IACV disconnected check(for idle screw setting part of the steps). Now that you mentioned it, I’ll listen for hissing at the idle screw for kicks when I go to bash on my IACV later. Been rainy today/this week so we’ll see. I suspect my IACV is sticking closed at times when hot, but I don’t get a CEL, just rough idle. I’ve got another thread going for that. Anything I get Honda + idle issue I’m always reading these threads to figure out how they turn out. It sounds like you solved your issue and did a bang up job at that.
+1.
Well done, I’m glad you followed the service procedure for the idle adjustment and yes, when you hear that ‘hiss’ it usually means someone turned the screw out too much and it does indeed cause something like a vacuum leak. Unfortunately it is often the first thing the inexperienced go for when dealing with a Honda idle problem so when you find the REAL problem and fix it you often have the same issue because the screw has been turned out too far. Thanks for posting your progress and using the ETCG forum.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Japanese cars use a HOAT coolant so i would use Zerex next time you change the coolant S:)
^ thanks for the tip Dreamer2355 😉
i’ll keep that in mind when i change my coolant later this year and try out some ZerexQuoted From hbvx:
^Another note on coolant, at least for older Honda’s that have been on some 2-eha containing dex-cool like anti-freeze/coolant, the Beck Arnley label has their own OE compatible fluids out. They have a pretty impressive lineup, the advantage to Type-II or their clones is longer service intervals and the best option for post 2000 models. I bet the Civic I have has used the ‘wrong’ type for years now, before I ever got it. It seems to be alright, but just for peace of mind I’ll be draining the radiator and performing some rinse flushes with distilled water until I can add the type I want.
Their pages on this ‘new’ lineup:
http://www.genuineoefluids.com/
The eLocator for nearby shops and FAQ are worth reading.
…I can get the concentrated “Premium Green” for about $23 before tax, and blend to get the right 50/50 mix I’d be looking for in my area, away from domestic coolant formulation and more suitable for Asian apps in general. Not bad for concentrate. Just because a few places locally have it that’s all.
great information HVBX, very much appreciated! yea i can understand on what you mean “peace of mind” i think many of us here on the forum can relate haha
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Well done, I’m glad you followed the service procedure for the idle adjustment and yes, when you hear that ‘hiss’ it usually means someone turned the screw out too much and it does indeed cause something like a vacuum leak. Unfortunately it is often the first thing the inexperienced go for when dealing with a Honda idle problem so when you find the REAL problem and fix it you often have the same issue because the screw has been turned out too far. Thanks for posting your progress and using the ETCG forum.
thanks Eric, and thanks to all for the advice everyone as i can say after driving my car today i did numerous trips i haven’t experience the symptoms i was having before 😀 im pretty happy.
yeah Eric from what you stated about the “hiss” i believe thats exactly what had happen the last owner tried patching a band aid messing with that screw.by the way this forum is awesome!
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