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My sisters car has not been running for a while and after going from one guy to another who said her engine was fried I figured that it couldn’t hurt if I could see if I could get it running. After putting new plugs and boots in her car the car turned right on and runs pretty well. I have been slowly working on fixing all the problems. After I took care of all the easy codes I am now left with 5 codes that I am not really sure how to take care of. Here are the codes that I am not sure where to start.
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first start by writing down all codes like you did. mass air flow low buy some mass air flow cleaner crc makes it. remove and clean.dont touch the wire or sensor part with hands.you didnt start the car with the air tube off as this will give you a mass air flow code. reinstall after drying. as for the crank position sensor I do
believe it lives in the block where you starter is and does need to come out. I would try to clean the maf sensor first put all intake ducting on. reset all codes
and see what comes back.next do the cp sensor. reset codes and see what comes back . as for the evap system do a visual inspection of all the hoses top and bottom to see if anything is off or broken. good luck and keep us postedCheck engine lights are a starting point not an ending point, just because you have a code for a given part does not indicate that part is bad, it could just as easily be the wiring, the connector, or some other outside issue causing the code so don’t condemn parts just because you have a code for them.
For the MAF sensor code you might try cleaning the sensor with either sensor cleaner or carburetor cleaner, especially if the car sat for some time these sensors can sometimes get gunked up and they are VERY sensitive devices so any contamination could cause an issue, just remove the sensor and spray it with the cleaner DO NOT touch it with anything just use the cleaner on it.
I would ignore the fuel temp sensor for now but it might be related to the evap code but I’m not sure on that vehicle.
The evap code indicates a problem with the evap system and this could get complicated because the evap system involves a lot of parts. That’s a generic code so the only real way to know what’s going on there is to get hold of a factory service manual and look up the test for that code. Don’t be surprised if you need a smoke machine to perform the test as many evap codes involve leaks in the system.
As for the crank sensor it may not be by the starter but somewhere else, I personally don’t know where it’s located but once again just because you have the code doesn’t mean the part is bad, it could be something else so once again consult with the service manual and follow the procedure for that particular fault code. Many times you can purchase factory service manuals on ebay or equivalent and it is the BEST investment you’ll ever make.
We also have a link to free Chilton’s online that may aid you to finding the location of the crank sensor.
The most effective way of testing crankshaft sensors is with a lab scope. However, you can try to ohm the sensor and see what the factory readings should be.
For the EVAP codes, its handy to have a smoke machine and a bi-directional scan tool to help with this issue. I would definitely do a good visual of the EVAP canister, vacuum hose and valves.
Cleaning the heated element in the MAF is a good starting point. Some MAFS can be tested with a DVOM but you would need a wiringg diagram. Again, the best testing methods for those is with a enhanced scan tool that can show gm/s of air. I would also examine the connector going to the MAF as well as the wiring.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
I would first do a cooling system pressure test as well as a block test to verify you do indeed have a head gasket issue before attempting to do all that work.
And i agree with college man, you will need a good FSM manual with all the procedures as well as torque specifications and all the correct tools.
Good luck and keep us updated.
+1 big time. Make SURE you need a head gasket before you do the job. I’ve seen inside the hoods on those cars. I don’t envy you getting to the exhaust manifold on the back side if you end up needing head gaskets.
+1 on the MAF cleaner. I have used it on one once and it gave the sensor two years more of life before it finally died.
Ok its been a while but I have been doing a bunch of work. The MAF codes were an easy fix because the last guy who worked on it did not plug it back in. The crank sensor error was also fixed by replacing the sensor. After getting all that stuff fixed I figured I would do a tune up for her. I went to change the oil and when I did that it came out a light brown and I started wondering if she had a head gasket problem. I then did a coolant flush because she only had water in the car and its winter and when I opened the radiator I could smell gas and after putting new coolant in I could see the white smoke. I have decided that I am going to go ahead and replace the head gasket. This will be my first one. I am just kind of looking for some advice. I know its not a hard job but a long job. Her car only has a little over 100,000 miles and everything runs extremely well. I know I will need two head gaskets a intake and a exhaust gasket and a valve cover gasket. What else will I need? I know they sell head gasket sets but I just wanted to see the pricing difference. Any advice or thoughts would be much appreciated!
a good service manual. penetrating oil keep engine work area clean.organize parts as they get taken off. If you need to take pictures.reassemble in
reverse order. torque all bolts according to sequence and spec.hopefully the job goes smooth.good luck and keep us posted. W-|I would first do a cooling system pressure test as well as a block test to verify you do indeed have a head gasket issue before attempting to do all that work.
And i agree with college man, you will need a good FSM manual with all the procedures as well as torque specifications and all the correct tools.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Defiantly make sure it’s the head gasket before you start tearing it apart as it’s more likely to be a problem with a leaking intake gasket. Here is a link to my overheat video where I show how to check for combustion gas leaks into the cooling system, I strongly suggest you do this and confirm a head gasket issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImI
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