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2004 Ford Taurus Duratec TPS install frustration

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 2004 Ford Taurus Duratec TPS install frustration

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  • #580703
    Kei YuukiKei Yuuki
    Participant

      I am having a fit with replacing a Throttle Position Sensor on a 2004 For Taurus Duratec Throttle body. Seems simple enough right? Two bolts and a sensor plug, right there in easy reach, well… not in this case. Sure the bolt up is easy as pie, but its getting an output voltage curve when rotating the throttle that is the PITA. No matter what I do, I cant get it to work properly. Bolting it straight up, I get a .4volt reading, and will not increasing with throttle movement. I try a preload, and it is too high, actually its full throttle( 5volts) at only a tiny amount of preload.. the Sensor has two sleeved holes for bolt up with no elongation for rotation to dial in a suitable idle voltage base setting when bolted to the throttle body.

      I have been on Ford Taurus Forums and got nowhere. Since I am a huge fan of Eric the Car Guy, I decided to come here.

      Also, the car spent 4 days at the dealer, and even they could not find out why the car was acting the way it does. (Jerky low powered parking lot speed bucking and hesitations, that after car reach operating temperature, it does it at interstate speeds, especially when at 80% or more throttle) I have my doubts about how through the dealer was in diagnosing the car.. as anyone could have found an issue with TPS reading on a scanner and went straight to it.

      Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. I am at the end of my rope, and the sad part is, In my former glory days, I was a Mechanic on Police Crown Victorias, and have never had one this stubborn.

    Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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    • #580753
      college mancollege man
      Moderator
        #580934
        Kei YuukiKei Yuuki
        Participant

          Glitch in the system, entire post just disappeared. So I will type a shorter version out. My car is 3rd owner and is a DOHC Duratec, not a OHV Vulcan, and the TPS was on the opposite direction, plug in to the rear. I am not sure if it was foctory or not, as the previous owner ran it 133,000 miles with factory spark plugs in it… if that tells you anything about its history. It was treated like a borrowed mule.
          I will try this method. I will post back any results positive or negative.
          Thanks

          #580971
          college mancollege man
          Moderator

            [quote=”Yuuki” post=88113]Glitch in the system, entire post just disappeared. So I will type a shorter version out. My car is 3rd owner and is a DOHC Duratec, not a OHV Vulcan, and the TPS was on the opposite direction, plug in to the rear. I am not sure if it was foctory or not, as the previous owner ran it 133,000 miles with factory spark plugs in it… if that tells you anything about its history. It was treated like a borrowed mule.
            I will try this method. I will post back any results positive or negative.
            Thanks[/quote]

            Keep us posted on your progress. 🙂

            #581067
            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
            Keymaster

              Wow it sounds like you’ve been through it. My first thought was that you did not have it installed correctly. I believe there is a small tab on the back of the sensor that needs to make contact in a specific place in order for it to correspond to the throttle movements. I had initially thought that would be an issue. If that’s not the case, then perhaps it being installed 180º out can also cause issues. Lastly, don’t rule out the possibility that there could be a wiring or connector issue that’s causing the problem. For that, you might take your readings directly at the computer TPS input to verify.

              Keep us posted.

              #581104
              Kei YuukiKei Yuuki
              Participant

                I attempted to do both a repeat install from the original position, and a 180 degree mount. With the 180 mount position, I disconnected the battery overnight and upon attempt to start it today, it will crank but not start, so it seems I need to check a fuel pump fuse and the inertia switch in the trunk area. It will be rotated and installed with sensor connection point away from the intake, as the previous TPS was.

                Reading the sensor from the connector with the sensor off the throttle body, I get a good reading with the Ignition on, with a perfect voltage curve using a manual rotation, but once is it bolted back on, it looses all of its potentiometer effects and sits at a 0.4 volt reading, no mater how much Throttle Body shaft rotation you give it. It is dumping snow like crazy here in eastern TN and with the car outside, further diagnosis is on hold for a day or two.

                Once I am able to get back on it, I will run a check through the PCM pins to verify continuity of the wiring harness to the sensor plug. Having a new Battery, TPS sensor and Throttle body, I can pretty much rule out a part issue on the intake end. The only codes being thrown are, TPS voltage low and Misfires which are due to issue of low voltage.

                I also wanted to note, that the Dealership kept it for 4 days about 2 weeks ago in attempt to diagnose it and advised me they could not find the reason it has this problem, and the Service Manager advised me to get rid of it as soon as possible.

                I usually do not let a challenge like this surpass me, but even I know that there must be a point where everyone must draw the line of feasibility for a fix, and that line is getting very close for me. I really like the car, and for a Taurus, 148,000 miles on a 2004 model is not all that much comparatively to average life expectancy of these cars. Thanks for all of your help in this frustrating matter. – Kimiko Yuuki

                #581425
                EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                Keymaster

                  To me it sounds like it’s not being installed correctly. Given that you get good readings with it off of the engine, I would say the sensor is good. If you’re taking your readings on a scan tool while looking at live data then the computer and wiring are likely also good. If you’re not getting your readings via a scan tool, you might consider hooking one up and checking the sensor input in the live data stream to confirm the integrity of the wiring and computer. If it looks good on the scanner, then the computer is getting the correct information. If that’s the case, I would check your installation to make sure you’re doing it correctly.

                  Keep us posted.

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