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i have heard that the ignition switches go out a lot on those
Um you can try to turn your key to the on position(not starting position) see if your warning lights come on if they don’t i bet it is your switch
If with a meter you checked the voltage right at the starter the you may be correct that the starter is at fault. make sure that the connections are
clean and tight.With the dvom set to dc volts check the positive to ground should be aprox 12v. next jumper the neg side to a clean ground.
try to start the car and confirm the 12v again. if the starter does not engage and the voltage is present than that would confirm the diagnostic
of a bad starter. try banging on it when trying to start it. see if it moves.C8-)I’m also going to send this videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKjdnQ0s … plpp_video
Already tried to bang on starter, and would not start. not sure if 11.85V is enough to kick starter over.
Driveway
You need to do a voltage drop test on the starter circuit –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry68G0C2Fyc
I would also recommend load testing that battery.
Banging on the starter is not going to cut it here. First make sure your connections at the battery are good as most problems actually start there. A good static battery charge is actually 12.6 so as suggested in the video that collage man posted you should probably load test the battery first, in fact the entire testing procedure that you would need to find the problem is within that video.
The voltage at the post is 12.35V. I was removing the starter to bench test it when the nut busted the solonoid post off. Yes, I did PB Blast it. All the connections at the starter had green corrosion. I guess i’m in for replacement now. Just a ?. Can these post be replaced or is the starter solonoid toast? I cleaned the connections off and I am going to take the battery for a load test. Thanks for the video link.
Driveway
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