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hello… my name is josh…(or jay) im new here an i have a realy big problem with my car and i could realy use some guidance….. i have a 2007 chrysler 300 2.7L V6… it was leaking coolent(found out i needed a new waterpump) so me an a freind dove in an replacet it but now when i start my car it will turn-over but wont stay idel…?…we have replacet the cam sen,spark plugs an tensiner and have a code reader…and we still can not figur it out…pls hlp…
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I assume the vehicle was running correctly prior to replacing the water pump.
If that is true, I would retrace my steps in the removal and replacement of the water pump.
Perhaps you forgot an electrical connection or a vacuum hose.Thank you so much for your response…nice to meet you… so first I am new to the mechanic thing so I apologize in advance if some of my explanation and or responses are a little distorted or hard to understand… that being said this is the rundown of what has been done and what we no so far … so I bought the updated water pump and timing chain tensioner and cam sensor and 2 hours ago we replaced the the three Rose Colored or red gaskets that are next to the spark plugs we’ve distant connected the negative part of the battery twice second time we left it unhooked overnight no I’m ninety-five 97% sure that the timing chain alignment is accurate though many of the forms I’ve read and videos I’ve watched say that it still could slip not to get off track if that is the case wouldn’t it make more sense just to replace the timing belt rather than fighting it the car does start and turn over but it doesn’t want to stay idle unless you’re pushing in the gas best description would be kind of sounds like it has a carburetor and there’s not a good air to gas mix ratio hopefully that makes a little sense and yes the car ran fine before I drove it up the street to where we’re currently working on it at
Pretty sure we didn’t miss any Electric connections though that is something that it could easily be my friend lives assisting me and fixing my car is leaning towards some type of vacuum leak or loss of compression type thing all I know is I would rather troubleshoot this issue the best way possible rather then the fastest potentially neglect the bigger picture any suggestions on how to go about diagnosing what could potentially be the issue…
Being that the vehicle ran prior to the repair, my first thought would still be to double and triple check everything that was done involving the water pump replacement.
Check for any damaged wiring or broken connectors.
If you have gone in and replaced any timing components, I would verify that all the timing marks align correctly and that #1 cylinder is at TDC.If all else fails, start with the basics.
Fuel
Air
Spark
Compression.Yeah we’ve checked checked and checked again a total of three times well the last time we didn’t actually remove anyting pass the crank cover butt my friend is assisting me just sent me a text about something that he found in a Hilton or Milton service manual have you ever heard of a crank relearn procedure
Also the only thing that I keep assuming could be an issue would be I went ahead and replace the spark plugs while we was doing this process and the spark plug on the passenger side closest to the radiator was the only one that made me nervous when I pulled it out it was completely covered by oil
Also I know a lot of newer cars have weird safety or whatever or bypass things computerized or whatnot …do you think if everything isn’t connected prior to the restart after the job would that stop it from staying idle kinda like a failsafe cuz it’s not registering everything is pluged and in working order the only things that are not connected to where they need to be is the radiator the air thing and headlights and I think maybe something on the throttle body
Let me see if I understand you correctly…..
only things that are not connected to where they need to be is the radiator the air thing and headlights
You have the air intake disconnected…. that is not a good thing if your engine requires a MAF sensor input.
The radiator (cooling system ) has a coolant temp sensor which the computer needs in order to set the correct RPM and fuel mixture.I assumed that you had completed the repair and this issue your having is due to something done incorrectly during the R&R, but you need to reassemble the engine to its original state before you state it will not run correctly.
Okay so as of this morning everything is put back together and deal the car turned over sort of starts but will only stay running when you hit the gas are leaving foot on gas it will not stay idle on its own….. sorry for the late reply but a lot going on and every spare minute I had since reading your reply I’ve been getting the car back together…
I would suggest hooking up a scan tool and looking for codes ( if any ) and live data for anything unusual.
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