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Hello all. Going to copy and paste this one as I’m trying to work with a dodge journey group as well. (Their knee jerk reaction is ‘take it to the dealership….’ My late sister did that a few times and they never figured it out.) So this might seem a bit jumbled, but I’ll do my best to answer questions.
Background: 2010 Dodge Journey SXT. Late sisters ride and I’m the one that is driving it now. It’s got the 3.5V6 about 94,500 on the clock
Past issue(s) Horn goes off at random times. Found TIPM was defective and replaced. Same TIPM was also causing the cooling fan to run at random times. So tentatively the horn issue is fixed, and the cooling fan and the battery drain issue are gone!
Remaining problems.. Good lord..
The starter problem. This one is like a rash all over the web and youtube!. Needless to say we did fire the parts cannon slightly.
The original starter was pulling 225amps. And the battery was only supplying 275amps according to the test at the auto store. So new battery installed! And we did swap out the battery cables from the battery to the firewall points (the ground strap and the jump point). All that is 100% good.
The Journey was still doing the super loud click from the starter and no crank. Usually that’s a dead spot in the starter. So we replaced the starter with a new REMY brand. (I love finding new parts at the pick and pull yards. But I do feel bad for the owner of the car that was rear ended….that must have sucked)
Right off the bat? Single CLICK and no crank. Cycled the key a few times and it finally turned over great guns! and started up. So I’m thinking maybe the used TIPM had issues. I grabbed another spare from the yard and installed it. No change. The replacement one did have a blown fuse for the cooling fan (replaced and it’s fine. The junker I removed it from had a front end crash and the radiator/fan was crushed a bit…that would explain the fuse. The cooling fan is running 100% okay!)
So I’m thinking: NO way this can be another bad TIPM. Makes zero statistical sense to have a total of 4 (including the factory one) doing the exact same random ‘click no crank’…
Issues removed as being potential problems:
New Battery installed. 525CCA brand new.
4 TIPMs later…. Statistically not possible to have 4 in a row with the same exact issue.
New(er) starter installed. When I put it into ‘clear flood’ (once it decides to crank…) This thing spins the engine wicked quick!! and is smooth as silk.
Battery cables replaced.
Mounting points for the grounds wire wheeled down for a 100% glitch free mating surface. I also cleaned the cables to the starter while it was out.
It can’t be an issue with the security system. That is a different set of symptoms. (I am aware of the TSB, but that is for a no start/no crank with out any click…)
Pending more diag work: It did the single click no start at the gas station. Cycled the key about a dozen times and then it decided to start.
Have my scan tool installed and checked the PID for the transmission position. The range selector appears to be okay.
The ignition switch when I hold it in various positions (including the start) appears to be okay and doesn’t glitch out according to the scan tool
I did try the place the transmission into neutral and give it a shot! It worked for a few starts, and then did the single click no crank in Neutral. The scan tool didn’t flinch either. It showed both Park and Neutral each time it flaked out. The signal doesn’t seem to be dropping.
Noted when this problem acts up. The PID for the Starter Relay. When this problem does happen: The PID toggles from ‘off’ to ‘on’ for the click. It toggles back almost instantly back to ‘off’ before it has a chance to spin! So right there… It’s not a starter issue, it’s not a battery issue…. It’s something else telling the Journey not to attempt to spin over.
I’m going to mod one of the spare relays I have on hand with a heavy gauge wire and momentary switch. So when this acts up and refuses to start, at least I can pop the hood and use a relay bypass to run the starter with the key on. (should save on being stranded…)
I’m not totally sold on it being the range selector in the transmission. But I do need to replace the side/rear cover that sits behind the LF tire as it’s weeping some fluid. So I might consider replacing the range selector while I”m in the neighborhood.
Any ideas are welcome. This issue is allllll over Google and there are far and few resolutions listed. Usually people pi$$ and moan about it…Try the neutral start trick (works for them for a while…..) and then they vanish without saying if they ever figured it out!
If I track down a solution I’ll 100% post it! Of course as mentioned. Ideas are welcome! The wife and I are already planning on doing a full transmission fluid/filter change when we do the side/rear cover. And in about 5000 miles? Timing Belt will be due….That should be fun…
Thanks all! Have a super night/day!
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My first suggestion would be to get a wiring diagram for your specific vehicle and trace out the start circuit.
This to me is a clue …
The PID for the Starter Relay. When this problem does happen: The PID toggles from ‘off’ to ‘on’ for the click. It toggles back almost instantly back to ‘off’ before it has a chance to spin! So right there… It’s not a starter issue, it’s not a battery issue…. It’s something else telling the Journey not to attempt to spin over.
I would guess your dealing with a issue with the command signal for the starter relay.
I would think tracing that command signal back should lead you to your issue.
Could be a wiring issue, poor connection, faulty com line or computer / module.Agreed. The trail seems to run head first into something ‘killing’ the command to run the starter. Seems to be 2 likely items that can cause this, other then wiring. The neutral safety switch inside the transmission (Lovely place to hide it…) or the PCM itself that sends the signal to the TIPM. The Journey forum chimed in about a flaky CPS. Not sold on that, as it runs like a top (once it starts) And it doesn’t get even a partial spin before getting commanded to shut off.
Next on my list is the relay bypass, and attempting to track down a wiring diagram. The only sites that offer to ‘sell’ a service manual would be in China or Korea. I’m a close follower of Eric O over at South Main Auto. If memory serves he did a video on service manuals and ones made for the DYI market. I’ll look into that as well and see if I can download PDF’s of the wiring. Part of me is leaning towards that NSS in the transmission. Even though my scan tool is reporting the correct data, it might be dropping the signal so quickly the tool doesn’t pick it up-but the PCM is. I hope it’s not a faulty PCM. I do have a supplier down in FL that I’ve used a few times with excellent results. But I’m tired of firing the parts cannon on this one.
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