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I also found this for you –
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/molur … 03_010.pdf
When was the last time your oil was serviced? and are you using the correct viscosity?
If you energized the solenoid off the cam shaft pos actuator. than you may have shorted the coil. check the ohms resistance
should be 10-18 ohmsC8-) no lower than 8 ohmsok so i did the ohms test and got 6.1 ohms. Now i just went into all data and the specs they gave me were (Test for 4.6-5.2 ohms of resistance between the high control terminal 1 and the low reference terminal 2 of the CMP actuator solenoid) it also said to do it in 68degree weather, the engine is hot was just running other tests and this is a brand new gm actuator. kind of confused now cause the tests i did today are leading to ecm now you told me check ohms and it is still not within spec?? i appreciate your feedback already not sure if i should order another actuator or pcm. am going to finish with the test i am running now after lunch than maybe swap out actuator from other car that i have here.
according to impala forum. this code can take up forty consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and must pass before
the check engine light will clear. possible causes are not correct oil viscosity not being used. to long between oil changes
also check the connector for corrosion. seat and reseat the connector 5-6.times to create a wiping effect. also follow the harness
back to the ecm looking for breakage or rub out. (I think you already have done so) Take the car out and drive it see if it clears.
keep us postedC8-) also the correct oil level must be seen.ok so i finished with my pinpoint tests. i removed actuator stuck in fridge till it was (68 degrees) and the resistace was on the money 5.2 ohms according to alldatapro. The original actuator i dont know what it was threw it in trash last week….(i know that was my mistake). Um it asked me to unplug connector and probe both wires and turn actuator on, and the pid on the data menu for circuit ground fault will say OK or FAULT it was Ok. then it wanted me to creat a short and see if it came up as fault onthe same pid and it did infact say fault. So at the end of every pinpoint test it says if every thing test normal replace ecm, So i think thats were im going to go at this point the vehicle has a little over 50,000mi. Might be warrenty not sure so i will diff. keep you posted on that and thank you for all your input i really appreciate it!!!
Before you condemn the ecm. The car needs to recognize that the fault has been cleared.as I stated above.
just because there was a problem does not mean there still is a problem. clear the freeze frame data. to see if any
thing else gets stored. good luck and keep us postedC8-)Thanks dreamer2355 that is the pinpoint test i am actually using and its pointing to the ecm. i cleared code and not any faster do i clear it its right back in current dtc
status so i cant check anymore wires or components, the only thing left is ecm! And the oil viscosity is not correct we are using 15w40 and it kills the shit out of me but
thats what my company has on bid and thats what we have to deal with, but oil was just changed.
So when the ecm gets put in i will diff. let everyone no what happens might take couple day or more since my shop is not capable of programming it.
You might get the same issue using that viscosity oil. What is OEM recommend viscosity?
Keep us posted though.
I doubt the viscosity recommended is 15w40. Change the oil to the correct manufacturer’s suggestion.
+1 I would put the correct oil in and give it some time before you replace the ECM, even though you have what appears to be an electrical fault it could have a mechanical cause.
Eric it is a pleasure to have you post on my issue, thank you for that. I also agree with you 100% about the right oil type, But as i stated above I work for the city of Pa. and 15w40 is all they use with the exception of hybid vehicles, out of the entire police fleet this is only the second time ive ran into this problem the first time was actually internal cam damage and needed to get a motor, but the car ran fine just engine light on and would not go through I/M inspection, which is the same problem i have now I/M is pass due but because of dtc will fail. The car is now at dealer to get ecm so whether they just put in ecm or start from the beginning i dont know i just cant wait till it comes back cause im really curious what they will say. But besides putting in correct oil i have done everything in my ability to diagnose this problem and everthing points to Ecm. I should point out to you that my first inspection of this car i found a wire that was grounding out on a harness holddown clip when i was checking for continuity between the cmp actuator and the ecm. Even thou i repaired it light still comes on maybe that could have damaged the ecm, so anyway i will keep everyone posted on this issue.
Thanks for all your input!
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