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5.0 mainbearsing and oil pump replacement!

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  • #439945
    OnThe7ThDayFordOnThe7ThDayFord
    Participant

      Im starting a job at autozone next weak.
      I get a 35% discount – durning July I get 50%.

      Iv been looking around and I can get – crank -PRO_SERIES oil pump (50% more psi) – main bearings – rod bearing – for 138$.

      Soo I would like some advise on how to replace them….

      Heres what i know.

      Trans. Place trans jack under truck – remove bell housing and torque convertor/fly wheel bolts – remove trans coolent lines- drop drive line from rear end – unplug shift solenoid block on top of trans on passenger side – unplug shift linkage – remove all other wires.

    Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 49 total)
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    • #439963
      dreamer2355dreamer2355
      Participant

        I agree with Beefy on the engine idea. I would purchase a low mileage salvage unit and rebuild your old motor as time allows.

        #439964
        yarddog1950yarddog1950
        Participant

          +1 for Beefy’s advice.
          If you’re going to buy another engine and invest in a rebuild, start with another V8. The 351 Windsor is the Ford with the improved bottom end. The 302 began as another dumb Ford idea 50 years ago. The main bearing

          #439965
          dreamer2355dreamer2355
          Participant

            If you do go with another 302, look for a E7 block C8-)

            Ill let you do the research on those.

            #439961
            OnThe7ThDayFordOnThe7ThDayFord
            Participant

              Ok thanks guys!!! Well let me ask this.

              Do yall think it would be a good idea to pick up a good running 302 for less then 500. Then take it to a shop and have it rebuilt???

              Im sure yall seen my post about the bad rocker arm!!! I ended up pulling both heads and fixxing them my self. I had a friend who builds race cars mic the clyender walls he said they wear well within spec the best he could tell with out pulling the engine apart.

              I installed a after market oil gage and it shows. 60psi at cold start and then 20 psi @ idl then 40 psi driving…..

              What do yall feel is a good oil psi for this engine???

              I got the truck back together and its running great just as good as before….

              Thanks all.

              #439962
              MattMatt
              Participant

                Honestly, if you can get a good running motor for under 500 bucks, why rebuild it? How many miles are on it? I would just swap it in, and then look at rebuilding your old one as time/funds allow, and then you have a backup/parts motor. Just a thought.

                Oh, and as for oil pressure, a rule of thumb I was given at school was at least 10psi per 1000 rpms. I’m curious what everyone else thinks about that figure though.

                #439966
                OnThe7ThDayFordOnThe7ThDayFord
                Participant

                  Ok that makes really good since… I do have to disagree tho with yard dog and the 302/5.0 being junk. Iv had a few of these engines/trucks and iv drove them threw hell and back and have yet to see one – Kock – snap a rod – spin a bearing… and let me tell you im no easy driver on my trucks.

                  I dont do alote of towing or 4X4ing but I do drive it.

                  I had a 1990 ford f150 with 498k on it. and i put 200k on it my self and never once did any real work with it…. I drove it from okc to Nashville Tn dong 110mph the whole way!!!

                  I will say one thing i have noticed about these engine are rear main leaks.

                  Dreamer i would like to know more about the e7 block brother!!!

                  Everything ealse yall said makes perfect since….

                  How hard would it be to put a 351 in the truck???? Would there be alote of modding or converting???

                  #439967
                  yarddog1950yarddog1950
                  Participant

                    I don’t believe the the 302 Ford is “junk”. It does have weak main bearings, as we would expect in an old 221 cubic inch engine intended to run 150 hp. That’s not much stress on those little mains. When Ford bumped the displacement up they finally beefed up the mains in the 351 Winsor.
                    It’s not just me who prefers the stronger mains in the 351, it’s Ford.
                    Those engines are all very light and compact. I think they’re a good choice for some applications like Trans Am racing, but then they need a main cap girdle to add strength.

                    #439968
                    dreamer2355dreamer2355
                    Participant

                      http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/11 … index.html

                      That will be a good read for you.

                      If you decide to drop in a 351, you need to figure out if you wanted to use EFI or carb.

                      #439969
                      EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                      Keymaster

                        This engine gets bigger by the post it seems. Something to consider is that I’m pretty sure with what’s happening in the Middle East right now gas prices are going to do nothing but go up, that said you might consider this when figuring out what displacement you go with because the bigger the engine the thirstier it gets and it would be a shame to have a really great engine that you can’t afford to drive. The Europeans figured this out some time ago and went to smaller displacement engines with forced induction in some cases, same or greater power, less displacement and weight.

                        #439970
                        OnThe7ThDayFordOnThe7ThDayFord
                        Participant

                          Eric you just love breaking my heart dont you.!!! lol.

                          Next to my son my truck is the only joy i have!!! I dont care how much gas it drinks. I want the best i can get for what i got…. In the last 3 years i havent so much as got my self a new pair of shoes… Infact my glasses i have on -well theres missing the whole right side ear peace…. Lol

                          Im not one to care much…Just as long as my sons taken care of and after him my truck.

                          anyway. dreamer thanks for the site. Eric thanks for the smart advise verry strong and good point.
                          Yarddog i do see what your saying and thanks.

                          guys idk what to do.

                          I found alote of 351 blocks on craigslist for around 150$…Most of them had some kinda bore work or such done to them.
                          I coulden find much as far as a 302 block goes.

                          A -Im thinking that buying a 302 with low miles for less then 500 and swaping ]- rebuild mine in the mean time.

                          Or should I.

                          B – buy a low miled 302 or 351. and go threw it and rebuild it peace by peace and in the mean time drive mine until it wont go anymore????
                          If i do B i would probably push more for a 351 efi.

                          POLE!!! vote A or B and The favored on I will do!!!

                          #439979
                          MattMatt
                          Participant

                            $100 eh? Yeh, I’d be wondering myself… Is there anyway to hear it run? I would at least pull the pan before purchase, and see if there’s pieces of bearings in the oil.

                            Also, they stopped making the 5.0 in ’95, per my man dreamer. Are you sure the motor is legit? I really am trying to help ya here bud. Just ‘buyer beware’.

                            #439980
                            dreamer2355dreamer2355
                            Participant

                              And i would take a breaker bar and socket and manual turn the crankshaft too…

                              For your oil viscosity, you used 20w50??? I hope that’s a misprint.

                              These engines require 5w30.

                              W in the oil viscosity rating stands for Winter if you didn’t know. That engine will be starved of oil when started if you did use 20w50. That oil is way too thick. S:(

                              #439981
                              yarddog1950yarddog1950
                              Participant

                                I think buying a good low miles engine is the best idea. I really have nothing against the 302. My comments about it may have been overstated, but I was responding to your question about replacing the crank and bearings. You did not state why you wanted to replace the crank rather than overhaul the complete engine, but I thought you had reason to believe it needed replacement. That’s why I mentioned the small size of the crank and bears.
                                You know, the Ford small block V8s are over-square (short stoke) engines, like the Chevy small block V8s (265, 283, 327, 302, 350, 400) and lots of other engines, and they do not require strong massive cranks and bearings like under-square (long stroke) engines. The Dodge slant six and old Pontiac V8s and others are examples. Nevertheless, Ford went to stronger bearings for the 351 Windsor and Chevrolet strengthened the bottom end of the small block in later 302s as well as their 350 and 400 engines. The early Chevy V8s with smaller, lighter cranks and smaller main bears were famously “free reving” compared to the later stronger V8s like the 350. In the late 1960s, engine builders and drag racers would claim you could build a 327 that would outrun the 350 just because of reduced rotating mass and friction in the 327.
                                Reduce the mass of the crankshaft and you can make more hp per liter, but it won’t live as long.
                                Do have any idea how many miles are left in your 302? If you reckon it will last another 6 months or a year, that would give you enough time to do a “mini” overhaul on that used 302. You should consult a trusted machinist, but my guess would be that you might be able to renew rings and bears and oil pump and camshaft and timing set and have the rods and heads rebuilt for a few hundred dollars. With a mini overhaul, a 302 with 110,000 miles might be good for another 200,000 miles or more.

                                #439982
                                yarddog1950yarddog1950
                                Participant

                                  Dreamer, That article from Car Craft was very interesting, but I think there are a couple of problems.
                                  I think that would make a terrible engine in a work truck.
                                  A friend of mine had what seemed to be the ideal PU truck back in the 1980s. I was in my thirties and working as an electrician (sometimes as an engine assembler, plumber, carpenter, or labor faker). All of my coworkers owned Chevy 3/4 ton PUs with 350/350, and I had one, then another. One friend had a 1971 Chevy with a 400 big block, a 4 speed trans with a granny gear and a rear end ratio of about 3 to 1. It had better acceleration and hauling power than the 350 equipped trucks and got about 5 or 6 mpg better than the 350s.
                                  It had all the torque you would need in a real work truck and, with the right gearing, got very good gas mileage.
                                  In my forties, I found a 1964 Pontiac Bonneville for sale with 29,000 miles on it. It had spent most of its life in a garage. It needed a lot of work and rather than fool with the engine (a 389 with over 10 to 1 compression) I found a late 1970s 400 Pontiac and rebuilt it for max torque and good mpg. The 64 Bonneville was a huge heavy car with a frame and an old 4 speed automatic that came in the biggest GM cars up to 1964. The 400 V8 I built had tremendous torque and somewhere around 360 hp. I drove to Mexico and back and got 18 mpg with it. That’s about twice what you get out of a 1964 high compression 389.
                                  I had planned to haul a small trailer with it whenever I needed PU capabilities, but my X wife rolled it. I sold the engine and trans to friend. I should have bought an old PU truck and stuck it in.

                                  #439983
                                  OnThe7ThDayFordOnThe7ThDayFord
                                  Participant

                                    Thanks all…

                                    The guy is going to bring it buy to let me look at it…Ill make sure i have my breaker bar near by….

                                    I do alote of scraping so im going to take a gamble and hope something is good….If not ill scrap it my next load.

                                    Here the link…. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/2811223295.html

                                    Iv had a ton of ppl say i should run 20/50. This is the first time iv heard a bad thing about it… Guess ill find out lol.

                                    Back to the 100$ engine,

                                    If just one of the heads are good iv made my money!
                                    Even if not there steal the chance the block could be good.

                                    I cant pull my engine right now and rebuild it right bc i need it for work…

                                    So if i get this one i can work on rebuilding it peace by peace and steal drive mine.

                                    I will go threw this one from top to bottom… Once im done doing that. Ill start on the original engine.

                                    Thanks guys. Will keep yall posted!!!

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