Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 5.0 mainbearsing and oil pump replacement!
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January 15, 2012 at 11:00 am #439945
Im starting a job at autozone next weak.
I get a 35% discount – durning July I get 50%.Iv been looking around and I can get – crank -PRO_SERIES oil pump (50% more psi) – main bearings – rod bearing – for 138$.
Soo I would like some advise on how to replace them….
Heres what i know.
Trans. Place trans jack under truck – remove bell housing and torque convertor/fly wheel bolts – remove trans coolent lines- drop drive line from rear end – unplug shift solenoid block on top of trans on passenger side – unplug shift linkage – remove all other wires.
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January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439979
$100 eh? Yeh, I’d be wondering myself… Is there anyway to hear it run? I would at least pull the pan before purchase, and see if there’s pieces of bearings in the oil.
Also, they stopped making the 5.0 in ’95, per my man dreamer. Are you sure the motor is legit? I really am trying to help ya here bud. Just ‘buyer beware’.
January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439980And i would take a breaker bar and socket and manual turn the crankshaft too…
For your oil viscosity, you used 20w50??? I hope that’s a misprint.
These engines require 5w30.
W in the oil viscosity rating stands for Winter if you didn’t know. That engine will be starved of oil when started if you did use 20w50. That oil is way too thick. S:(
January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439981I think buying a good low miles engine is the best idea. I really have nothing against the 302. My comments about it may have been overstated, but I was responding to your question about replacing the crank and bearings. You did not state why you wanted to replace the crank rather than overhaul the complete engine, but I thought you had reason to believe it needed replacement. That’s why I mentioned the small size of the crank and bears.
You know, the Ford small block V8s are over-square (short stoke) engines, like the Chevy small block V8s (265, 283, 327, 302, 350, 400) and lots of other engines, and they do not require strong massive cranks and bearings like under-square (long stroke) engines. The Dodge slant six and old Pontiac V8s and others are examples. Nevertheless, Ford went to stronger bearings for the 351 Windsor and Chevrolet strengthened the bottom end of the small block in later 302s as well as their 350 and 400 engines. The early Chevy V8s with smaller, lighter cranks and smaller main bears were famously “free reving” compared to the later stronger V8s like the 350. In the late 1960s, engine builders and drag racers would claim you could build a 327 that would outrun the 350 just because of reduced rotating mass and friction in the 327.
Reduce the mass of the crankshaft and you can make more hp per liter, but it won’t live as long.
Do have any idea how many miles are left in your 302? If you reckon it will last another 6 months or a year, that would give you enough time to do a “mini” overhaul on that used 302. You should consult a trusted machinist, but my guess would be that you might be able to renew rings and bears and oil pump and camshaft and timing set and have the rods and heads rebuilt for a few hundred dollars. With a mini overhaul, a 302 with 110,000 miles might be good for another 200,000 miles or more.January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439982Dreamer, That article from Car Craft was very interesting, but I think there are a couple of problems.
I think that would make a terrible engine in a work truck.
A friend of mine had what seemed to be the ideal PU truck back in the 1980s. I was in my thirties and working as an electrician (sometimes as an engine assembler, plumber, carpenter, or labor faker). All of my coworkers owned Chevy 3/4 ton PUs with 350/350, and I had one, then another. One friend had a 1971 Chevy with a 400 big block, a 4 speed trans with a granny gear and a rear end ratio of about 3 to 1. It had better acceleration and hauling power than the 350 equipped trucks and got about 5 or 6 mpg better than the 350s.
It had all the torque you would need in a real work truck and, with the right gearing, got very good gas mileage.
In my forties, I found a 1964 Pontiac Bonneville for sale with 29,000 miles on it. It had spent most of its life in a garage. It needed a lot of work and rather than fool with the engine (a 389 with over 10 to 1 compression) I found a late 1970s 400 Pontiac and rebuilt it for max torque and good mpg. The 64 Bonneville was a huge heavy car with a frame and an old 4 speed automatic that came in the biggest GM cars up to 1964. The 400 V8 I built had tremendous torque and somewhere around 360 hp. I drove to Mexico and back and got 18 mpg with it. That’s about twice what you get out of a 1964 high compression 389.
I had planned to haul a small trailer with it whenever I needed PU capabilities, but my X wife rolled it. I sold the engine and trans to friend. I should have bought an old PU truck and stuck it in.January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439983Thanks all…
The guy is going to bring it buy to let me look at it…Ill make sure i have my breaker bar near by….
I do alote of scraping so im going to take a gamble and hope something is good….If not ill scrap it my next load.
Here the link…. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/2811223295.html
Iv had a ton of ppl say i should run 20/50. This is the first time iv heard a bad thing about it… Guess ill find out lol.
Back to the 100$ engine,
If just one of the heads are good iv made my money!
Even if not there steal the chance the block could be good.I cant pull my engine right now and rebuild it right bc i need it for work…
So if i get this one i can work on rebuilding it peace by peace and steal drive mine.
I will go threw this one from top to bottom… Once im done doing that. Ill start on the original engine.
Thanks guys. Will keep yall posted!!!
January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439984Yarddog1950 – I was just giving the OP just some food for thought. The job of the transmission is to provide torque multiplication so depending on what transmission he has would definitely effect the performance of the engine. I am just trying to educate him along the way C8-). I really appreciate your responses though. I always learn something from your posts.
OnThe7thDayFord – That oil is way way too think. The people who suggested that oil probably have no idea what viscosity means and how oil is rated and what tests are completed on oil’s.
Keep up updated though!
January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439971Im thinking about trying to buy this block??? http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/2812968069.html
January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439972I talk with the guy and he said the block is readdy to go.. It had been cleaned and checked.
Should i go for it???
January 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #439973Well do plan on doing EFI or carb? What about the heads? Do you have an engine stand? Or even an engine hoist?
I would just find a low mileage newer 302, drop that into your F150 and build up your old engine if possible.
January 25, 2012 at 11:00 am #439990Quoted From OnThe7ThDayFord:
Yes sir Im from Oklahoma. Next time ill make sure i come here and ask first…
I had heard a few times before that increasing weight can help but never did it Until now – A few guys at autozone talked me into it.
Lessoned learnedIts very sad how people are so misinformed regarding oil viscosity as well as what those numbers exactly mean on the bottle.
Increasing the viscosity of oil to try to take up the ‘slack’ from mechanical wear is never a good idea. You usually make it worse by starving the engine of oil.
The only time i would use 20w50 is if i participated in demolition derby’s and knew my cooling system would be ineffective after a few front end hits.I am really not sure how well mixing a conventional oil and a synthetic would be due to the different chemicals. I would do a drain and refil.
Going back to the 351, you will have to do your research. I know the 351w is about 1 inch taller than the standard 302. I also believe the bell housing bolt patters are the same. A lot of the internals are interchangeable too.
If you decide to stick with EFI, i have no idea what changes you will need to make, if any for the PCM.
Usually most people if they decide to use a different engine will go Carb or use an aftermarket engine management system like Megasquirt for example.
If you go with this 351, you will be spending ALOT more money trying to get it running over buying a used lower mileage replacement long block or even short block for your F150.
January 25, 2012 at 11:00 am #439991I wrote a song in collage called “I love my Truck”, I think it fits you to a “T”. The song was kind of a joke (not about you just about the love of an inanimate object which in the case of the protagonist in the song happened to be his truck) and to be honest the swear filter will probably bleep out most of the lyrics if I posted them. C:P
That said if you love your truck that much I have but one piece of advice to offer and you already seem to be on the right track, talk to people that have already done what you want to do and learn from their mistakes, this will save you money and time in the long run and you might just be able to afford a new pair of glasses when you’re done. Till then best of luck.
January 25, 2012 at 11:00 am #439992Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I wrote a song in collage called “I love my Truck”, I think it fits you to a “T”. The song was kind of a joke (not about you just about the love of an inanimate object which in the case of the protagonist in the song happened to be his truck) and to be honest the swear filter will probably bleep out most of the lyrics if I posted them. C:P
That said if you love your truck that much I have but one piece of advice to offer and you already seem to be on the right track, talk to people that have already done what you want to do and learn from their mistakes, this will save you money and time in the long run and you might just be able to afford a new pair of glasses when you’re done. Till then best of luck.
Can you sing this to us on a FATR?
Thanks!
January 25, 2012 at 11:00 am #439993Quoted From dreamer2355:
Can you sing this to us on a FATR?
Thanks!
I’d pay to see that ! LOL
January 25, 2012 at 11:00 am #439985Offer him a 100 for the whole thing. He might part with everything for 125 or 150 or even 100.
In 1972 I made a deal on a nice 1964 Chevy Impala wagon with a 327 four barrel and twice pipes. The fellow wanted $550 and after some begging on my part, he agreed to $475. I couldn’t cash a check that evening, so I asked my father to drive me over and loan me some cash. When we got there, my father announced he didn’t want to pay $475 and offered $450. They talked it over and the fellow said he’d take the $450. THEN my father offers $400. The fellow asks for $425 and the deal was done.January 25, 2012 at 11:00 am #439986Dreamer, I always learn from you too. I didn’t seriously think you were recommending that engine for a PU.
I think that our friend could bolt a 302 or a 351 into his truck with existing trans and rear end and see no difference in the gas mileage. Some of us will switch to a more powerful engine and then use that additional power just for fun. Mpg goes down. I think that with a work truck, most of us just use the power we need. I remember the 3/4 ton trucks I had in the 1970s. My 1972 had a towing package on it. A 4.11 rear end, a 350/350 and one ton springs and tires as well as Hellwig helper springs. It was rated for 3800 lbs load, but you could carry a lot more a short distance if you didn’t need brakes down a steep hill. They would fade away if you overloaded the truck. With two or three thousand lbs in a truck like that, the mpg would sink. If you didn’t downshift, the 350 automatic would do it for you.
That’s why I think that if you use a work truck as a work truck, you won’t get better mileage with a smaller engine.
There’s a thread on the forum titled “Am I overbuilding?” A young fellow with a 1969 Dodge 3/4 ton and a 318 V8. He received recommendations to build a high RPM expensive 318 with aftermarket aluminum heads and new rear end gears and a high stall torque converter. Those would be good ideas if he was building a little Dodge car for drag racing. He was in a position to find an old Dodge 383, rebuild it for cheap and get more torque, mpg and longer engine life. -
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