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5.0 mainbearsing and oil pump replacement!

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  • #439945
    OnThe7ThDayFordOnThe7ThDayFord
    Participant

      Im starting a job at autozone next weak.
      I get a 35% discount – durning July I get 50%.

      Iv been looking around and I can get – crank -PRO_SERIES oil pump (50% more psi) – main bearings – rod bearing – for 138$.

      Soo I would like some advise on how to replace them….

      Heres what i know.

      Trans. Place trans jack under truck – remove bell housing and torque convertor/fly wheel bolts – remove trans coolent lines- drop drive line from rear end – unplug shift solenoid block on top of trans on passenger side – unplug shift linkage – remove all other wires.

    Viewing 4 replies - 46 through 49 (of 49 total)
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    • #439988
      yarddog1950yarddog1950
      Participant

        Dreamer, I remember reading that synthetic oil was compatible with dino oil. Do you know if it would be possible to take two gts out of the Ford and add two qts of synthetic, say 5w 20 ? I wouldn’t be worried about the summer number (50), but 20w is heavy for that 302. I think our friend lives in Oklahoma which is too cold for 20w. I think he could put a band-aid on the oil and survive another winter.
        And you?

        #439989
        OnThe7ThDayFordOnThe7ThDayFord
        Participant

          Yes sir Im from Oklahoma. Next time ill make sure i come here and ask first…

          I had heard a few times before that increasing weight can help but never did it Until now – A few guys at autozone talked me into it.
          Lessoned learned

          #439990
          dreamer2355dreamer2355
          Participant

            Quoted From OnThe7ThDayFord:

            Yes sir Im from Oklahoma. Next time ill make sure i come here and ask first…

            I had heard a few times before that increasing weight can help but never did it Until now – A few guys at autozone talked me into it.
            Lessoned learned

            Its very sad how people are so misinformed regarding oil viscosity as well as what those numbers exactly mean on the bottle.

            Increasing the viscosity of oil to try to take up the ‘slack’ from mechanical wear is never a good idea. You usually make it worse by starving the engine of oil.
            The only time i would use 20w50 is if i participated in demolition derby’s and knew my cooling system would be ineffective after a few front end hits.

            I am really not sure how well mixing a conventional oil and a synthetic would be due to the different chemicals. I would do a drain and refil.

            Going back to the 351, you will have to do your research. I know the 351w is about 1 inch taller than the standard 302. I also believe the bell housing bolt patters are the same. A lot of the internals are interchangeable too.

            If you decide to stick with EFI, i have no idea what changes you will need to make, if any for the PCM.

            Usually most people if they decide to use a different engine will go Carb or use an aftermarket engine management system like Megasquirt for example.

            If you go with this 351, you will be spending ALOT more money trying to get it running over buying a used lower mileage replacement long block or even short block for your F150.

            #439994
            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
            Keymaster

              To be honest I’d have to bleep out most of the lyrics and I’d be hard pressed to remember most of them to be honest, it was 20 years ago after all.

            Viewing 4 replies - 46 through 49 (of 49 total)
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