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This car probably does have a TV cable (throttle valve) that might need adjusting. Eric also did a video on adjusting Honda throttle cables (not the TV cable, the one to the throttle plate), lemme go find it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rawvJop772E
There it is.
Quoted From Beefy:
This car probably does have a TV cable (throttle valve) that might need adjusting. Eric also did a video on adjusting Honda throttle cables (not the TV cable, the one to the throttle plate), lemme go find it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rawvJop772E
There it is.
Lol. I saw that video a while ago and have already adjusted the cable. It didn’t fix the problem. Before I forget. I have already replace the fuel filter twice.
Thanks.
it sounds like thats the way the transmission is geared in 4th gear at a certain rpm. when passing at the 50-55 mph can you turn off over drive to see if the car
accelerates up. I know on my 2007 nissan if I mash the throttle at certain high way speeds.The truck doesn’t feel like its doing anything until I back off the
pedal and ease it back down, It seams like if I juice it to hard at certain speeds it just sits there. I don’t think you have anything wrong.Quoted From college man:
it sounds like thats the way the transmission is geared in 4th gear at a certain rpm. when passing at the 50-55 mph can you turn off over drive to see if the car
accelerates up. I know on my 2007 nissan if I mash the throttle at certain high way speeds.The truck doesn’t feel like its doing anything until I back off the
pedal and ease it back down, It seams like if I juice it to hard at certain speeds it just sits there. I don’t think you have anything wrong.Yeah, I test drive my ex GF 91 Accord with the auto tranny too and it does not do that. I maintain her car and it’s doing better than mine. My car does have a sport button which is like the overdrive. I have never used it and don’t want to use as it does nothing but use more gas.
A few guys over at CB7tuner said that I could improve my mileage if I replace the o2 sensor as I probably have a lazy sensor without throwing a CEL.
One more thing, today, I checked the oil level and it’s right between low and high when the engine is hot. It’s usually at the high mark when the engine is hot. The car drives good, the plugs looks normal when I checked last week. Now I got to see where the oil is going. This car never have the oil level drop like this since I bought it. I put in half a quart to bring it up to high level. I wonder where could the oil go? No leak, not burning in great amount. Check PCV, no clog. No oil in the spark plugs. The only thing different is this oil change, I have been driving the car much less since I don’t work right now and drive more in the city than freeway.Thanks.
You could do a compression test to determine if you have bad compression leading to excessive blow-by.
Different oils have different burn off qualities too.
And i think the o2 sensor suggestion was mentioned in another one of your threads.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
You could do a compression test to determine if you have bad compression leading to excessive blow-by.
Different oils have different burn off qualities too.
And i think the o2 sensor suggestion was mentioned in another one of your threads.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Compression test done with the kit I bought from HFT a while ago. All is good. I have been using the same synthetic oil brand for over 15k miles. The O2 sensor suggestion was on the 99 Corolla.
This problem is not too concern to me as that sound coming from the driver’s side.Thanks.
All vehicles will burn oil. How many miles did you drive before having to add the extra half quart?
Do you remember what the wet and dry compression test results were?
If you are losing alot of oil in a short amount of time/mileage, there has to be an oil burn off issue or a leak. There is a UV dye you can purchase to add to the oil to help locate any leaks easier if you have a black light.
Keep us updated S:)
This one is most recent. The last oil change was about 1500 miles ago. I am going to check the oil more often and keep an eye out for a leak. I hope it’s not the pan as I hate working under without a lift for a long time.
Thanks.
For power steering system flushes, alot of home DIY’ers will just remove the power steering return hose and aim the hose into a bucket, then have someone rotate the steering wheel lock to lock while another person adds new fluid.
Once the fluid leaving the return hose is the same color and condition of the new fluid that is being poured in, stop the engine, reattach the return hose then you should be set.
Finally run the engine once more, move the steering wheel lock to lock again and check the level of the fluid and top off as necessary.
Given that it only happens in 4th gear I would suspect a transmission issue instead of an engine performance issue. If it’s a manual transmission it’s likely to be a clutch problem meaning the clutch is worn out but if it’s an automatic perhaps the 4th gear clutches are having a problem. It’s EXTREMELY important that you only use Honda fluid in a Honda automatic so if you have other fluid in there you might consider changing it to OE however if you already have a problem with worn internals changing the fluid will probably do little to help the problem.
Thanks Eric. I have changed out the oil twice since I bought the car, just in case the previous owner didn’t use just Honda stuffs. I just got some new Honda fluids from the transmission service place for $5 a bottle. I jumped on the deal. Honda ATF at the dealer is at least $8. I am going to change it out again next week and it should completes the flush cycle.
I would still use OEM Honda fluid over aftermarket. ETCG has preached several reason’s as to why its important to use Honda fluid only.
Let us know how it goes.
Oh yeah. I always use Honda’s fluids for transmission and power steering. Even the valve cover I use OEM as after market tend to leak at the corners even if I dab gasket material in the corners. I always torque it at about 8. Any idea on how to flush the power steering system? My friend said he just take the old fluid out of the reservoir and put new in then turn the wheel lock to lock, then replace it once more. That should be most of the fluid replaced. It also does not damage pump as it does not gets dry if flushing out of the return hose.
Thanks.A+ on dreamers post. Regarding the part of starting the car while doing the flush. You can’t start the car it runs the pump dry. what you can
do is pull the fuel pump fuse and then crank the engine a few times to move the fluid through the pump. then finish with the lock to lock.
good luck and keep us posted. C8-)Quoted From dreamer2355:
For power steering system flushes, alot of home DIY’ers will just remove the power steering return hose and aim the hose into a bucket, then have someone rotate the steering wheel lock to lock while another person adds new fluid.
Once the fluid leaving the return hose is the same color and condition of the new fluid that is being poured in, stop the engine, reattach the return hose then you should be set.
Finally run the engine once more, move the steering wheel lock to lock again and check the level of the fluid and top off as necessary.
So that’s like 3 sets of hands.
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