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Do NOT touch the idle screw! It is set from the factory.
Here are some good references for you to look at, particularly Eric’s Honda idle speech –
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topics.aspx?ID=1134
Solving Honda idle issues –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEV … qtOUeqg%3D
You also may want to check for vacuum leaks –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSg … h5ma49U%3D
Keep us posted!
In your opinion what should I do I already cleaned the IACV, FITV checked for vacuum leaks, made sure the butterfly is closed all the way, but still same story. Like I said it was all good until I removed the TB to clean it. Anyway that carbon was holding back air? Or the rip in the gasket is causing a small vacuum leak? Should I pull the TB again but this time add some silicone gasket the pop the gasket on then put it back together?
Oh yeah I also reset the ECU twice!
do you have a check engine light on? post code if you do.Try spraying around the TB and gasket area to see if the idle
changes from vacuum leaks heres some videos to help guide you.C8-)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSg … plpp_video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEV … plpp_video
I just went and checked the iacv it is throwing 12 ohms constant. So that is still good. I have the FITV screwed all the way backed out by 1/2 a turn. It warms up at 1600 and when it idles it does go down to 750, but after a little while it may or may not go up to 800. But it still drops way down when I press the gas and then let it idle, it will go up with the gas, then drop to about 600 then bounce back to 750-800.
Any other ideas. I have the starter valve disabled, because it causes a looping idle. It ran good before.
What can I check, coolant is good no air.throttle body is clean. throttle cable is good. IACV and FITV are clean, and working.
Oh yeah this is with no accessories. with accessories it idles consistanly at 850. But when I give it gas then let it drop it will drop to about 700 then bounce back.
The base idle is at 650, but I can’t adjust it.
Sounds like you need to start with a tune up with all OEM parts. 170K on a 91? Was it sitting around without being driven for a long time?
I had this problem happened to me 2 weeks ago. When I cleaned my TB, I accidentally push some carbon onto the screen of the IACV and the idle was really high. Cleaning that out fixed it. When you sprayed clean the idle screws, you must have free up some air space and making the idle higher or the screw might be backing out slowly when you cleaned it. Notice the position and if needed turn it it in slowly. Better yet, just adjust your base idle again by pulling the IACV and see where it is. Colder weather does make the car idle a little higher but 50 rpm isn’t that high or bad. But with the car idle over 1000 when not in gear is similar to the problem I had 2 weeks ago. I just spray clean mine without even taking the coolant lines off so no need to bleed the system after.
Ya I just cleaned the IACV and FITV, and adjusted the FITV. The car I have is a 5-speed. I just did a tune up not long ago which included cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. And when I bought the car it was sitting for 2 years not running because of the dizzy. I changed the fuel filter fuel pressure regulator, and the coil and it ran good.
I would set my base idle, but the idle screw doesn’t move it is frozen. And you can’t heat the white metal well so that isn’t a idea either, The only thing I was thinking was to pull the TB again and put it in a vice then get my weight on the screw and maybe it will turn, but I don’t want to break it.
Today I reset the base timing to 15 degrees and the idle stopped dropping when I gave it gas then let it idle.
it will idle at 850 with headlights on and then not drop when I turn them off, but if I let it idle enough it will drop to 780.
Oh yeah right now my base idle is at 650, it used to be 550
I don’t recommend that anyone remove the throttle body to clean it, in fact if you type “remove throttle body” into the search function I’m sure you’ll find that in just about every instance the story ends badly. That said I think the issue is with the idle screw, as stated it should never be adjusted and now that you have you have offset the base idle mixture and since you are unable to move it now it’s impossible to reset it fully. I’m glad to hear that you backed off the FITV a half turn because it should not be bottomed out it won’t work correctly if you do bottom it out. You may have to go to a salvage yard and get a new throttle body if you can’t fix your idle mixture screw as I can’t think of anything else you could do in that situation.
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