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91 Olds Ciera 3.3 Hard to start when cold/sub zero

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 91 Olds Ciera 3.3 Hard to start when cold/sub zero

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  • #581117
    ErikErik
    Participant

      I have a 1991 olds iera 3.3 with 70,060 on it. When it gets into single digits or sub zero weather it becomes very hard to start/no start. I’ve gotten it to start by cycling the key 2-3 times and cranking a couple more times. I will list the stuff I have tried so far.
      All fluids newer and good
      New battery (alternator smoked last one)
      I rebuilt the Delco CS alternator with new parts (now running at 14.6v)
      Visually checked and don’t see any unhooked vac lines
      Checked coolant temp sensor with multimeter and was within spec
      I brought it to a reputable shop to have a bad knock sensor and pigtail changed

      They looked it over and of course it was warmer out and didn’t do it, but they said they tested Fuel pressure;ignition control module, checked plug gaps and wires and they are in newer condition, tested injectors and they are newer and good, coil packs tested good and I think that is it. Other then that they couldn’t find anything.

      I hooked up a fuel pressure tester today at the fuel rail and turned key on, car off and it hit 30. At that point noticed battery was too low to start. I hooked up jumper cables tried once no go, waited, second time fired right up and running fuel pressure was about 40psi. I let it run for a while and it held just fine. I turned off released pressure turned key on it went right to 40 and fired up again and held fine. Im pretty much out of ideas the only thing I haven’t looked at is the prom chip and the maf sensor because my digi multimeter has everything but Hz. Out of ideas here!

    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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    • #581125
      BillBill
      Participant

        How many cold crank amps is your replacement battery?

        #581128
        ErikErik
        Participant

          700 CCA

          #581130
          BillBill
          Participant

            If the battery is good 700 CCA should be more than enough. Just a thought.

            #581131
            ErikErik
            Participant

              Yeah that’s what I figured. The battery is new but I’m going to grab a float charger because I don’t drive the car every day and it seems to get low. I am going to check for parasitic drain after watching eric’s video just to make sure everything’s good. Thanks

              #581310
              ErikErik
              Participant

                Yesterday when they battery didn’t have enough juice to crank, the fuel rail psi would only get up to 20 when cycling they on and off. Then when I jumped it and warmed it up I turned it off and like I said in original post, would get to 30psi at key on and 40 car running. Well I had the battery load tested/charged and they said it was bad. They swapped it on warranty. I re tested and fuel rail gets around 44psi now at key on and 41psi running.

                I turned it off and watched the gauge bleed down from around 43psi to 0 in about 10 min. Does this mean an injector(s), or the valve in the pump is leaking not holding pressure?

                Removed vac hose on FPR, no smell of gas or gas.

                #581314
                valdevalde
                Participant

                  It also can be fuel pressure regulator. Or it can leak to outside but you should smell it then.

                  #581460
                  EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                  Keymaster

                    I don’t think it’s your fuel psi regulator. It’s likely the fuel pump itself. There’s a check valve inside the fuel pump that’s suppose to hold psi after you turn off the key. If it bleeds down in 10min, it’s likely bad. You can either cycle the key a few times when you go to start it or replace the fuel pump to address the issue. This video has more info.

                    Keep us posted.

                    #581596
                    ErikErik
                    Participant

                      [quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=88388]I don’t think it’s your fuel psi regulator. It’s likely the fuel pump itself. There’s a check valve inside the fuel pump that’s suppose to hold psi after you turn off the key. If it bleeds down in 10min, it’s likely bad. You can either cycle the key a few times when you go to start it or replace the fuel pump to address the issue. This video has more info.

                      Keep us posted.[/quote]

                      Thanks for the video! Good info. Can the pump valve intermittently work if going bad/bad? This morning I tried the bleed down test before work same results but I left the tester hooked up. I went to go try again after work, and to my surprise it was sitting at 30. I released the pressure and re energized the pump it went to 40 and slowly down to 30 and held. Tried 3x same result. I then removed the fuel return line from FPR just to see and a very small amount of gas came out.

                      I hooked it back up cycled key, unhooked it, no gas, and watched it slowly bleed down to 30 and hold. I also ran the car for 15 min with vac line off FPR just top see, and no droplets of gas. I am now stumped as to why its holding pressure now and wasn’t for 2 days straight? So its most likely the pump then?

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