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acura integra 94 cut off

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  • #443185
    Ryker GabrielRyker Gabriel
    Participant

      my acura integra 94 cut off while driving n i have to give it some time to start it up, the main swtich looks ok i dont know where else to check the icm is inside t distribuitor, could it b what is wrong

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    • #443186
      Ryker GabrielRyker Gabriel
      Participant

        Quoted From mrquinchito:

        my acura integra 94 cut off while driving n i have to give it some time to start it up, the main swtich looks ok i dont know where else to check the icm is inside t distribuitor, could it b what is wrong

        t main relay looks ok, has somebody else had this problem before, or an idea what could i do, thanks

        #443187
        TejasNWTejasNW
        Participant

          Let’s take it step by step. First the fuel system since you started there. Go step by steps and don’t make any assumptions.

          Gas in tank? (it happens. Confirm.)

          Is the fuel pump turning? When you turn the key on do you hear it spinning for 2-3 seconds? You can open the gas cap and listen in the tank if necessary.

          Is the pump providing pressure? Loosen the bolt on the fuel filter. Use caution disconnect battery, cold engine, no smoking, etc…

          Is it enough pressure? Without a fuel pressure tester, one has to measure how much fuel comes out of a period of time, and look up the number.

          Is the fuel reaching the cylinder? Pull all the spark plugs. Key on pump gas pedal. Do you smell and hear fuel?

          Final consideration is the fuel in the tank good? Has it sat for a prolong period. Did the car start running rough (water in fuel.) If you confirmed all points positive, then it is not a fuel promblem. It is time to go to the electrical. If you got a negative report it back here for further rundown of problem, but isolate it first.

          #443188
          baylenbaylen
          Participant

            Sounds like a bad main relay. Pull it and test to make sure

            #443189
            TejasNWTejasNW
            Participant

              Let’s try the electrical system now. I am NOT an expert by any means. I will try to be comprehensive; and the more experienced can fact check me and add as necessary.

              Again, this is step by step troubleshooting. If you are running down a problem, one has to be methodical.

              Go to the end of the system. Do you have spark in the cylinder? One can use a spark tester (light or gap) in line with each cylinder to confirm current. Also pull the plugs. Are they gap correctly? What is the condition of the plug? Is it carbonized, is it black, any hairline cracks in the insulator portion? In the absence of a tester, one can ground the plug wire to the engine to test spark; but I am going to refer you to Eric’s videos for a more comprehensive discussion or that technique, because you can damage electrical components if not done correctly.

              If no spark or weak spark, start at the top of the electrical system. Battery. How is the charge? Can you put a load tester on it?

              Inspect battery cables. Are the connections tight? Is there corrosion on the terminals? Has some furry woodland creature or your neighbor’s cat been chewing on the wires?

              Without going through the starting and charging systems, skip to the delivery of charge. Distributor (with cap and rotor.) Visually inspect the cap. Look for cracks or heat blemishes. Is it dry? Does it have oil residue? Are the posts shiny? Is the rotor worn or cracked? Does it sit tight on the post or does it have play? Is the contactor good and bright? Does the distributor body have oil in it?

              Next you will need to test the coil and igniter inside the distributor. For this you will need a voltage meter and/or a test light. You need to confirm these components in the distributor are good. Eric has detailed videos of what and where to check. I will refer you to those, as electrical testing is not my strong suit.

              Lastly is wires. Are spark plug wires in good shape? Nicks in the insulation, or cracks in the boots? Heat blemishes?

              Finally, since we are being thorough; how is the ground straps on the battery and engine? Is the loop of current necessary to fire the plugs being interrupted by a lose wire or corroded connector?

              If you can run down the known good parts/systems, we can be much more help to you making a diagnosis by isolating the problem area. It could be one of many many things that is causing your stall.

              Follow up and let us know what you find.

              #443190
              EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
              Keymaster

                Quoted From bälon:

                Sounds like a bad main relay. Pull it and test to make sure

                Main relay’s don’t often do this, in fact they hardly ever do. If a main relay goes bad it normally causes a no start condition it’s not normal for it to just shut the car off.

                It is however quite common for the electrical portion of the ignition switch to go bad on Hondas so you might want to try a little experiment. Try holding the key toward the ‘crank’ position just after you crank the engine, if the engine stays running while you do this but when you let go of the key it stalls this is the most likely suspect. You don’t need to replace the entire switch just the electrical portion.

                If this doesn’t work you then need to follow the basic steps to find the cause of a no start, it just so happens I have a video.

                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539cy4

                #443191
                pcmdjasonpcmdjason
                Participant

                  I’ve seen on many cars that will stall and start shortly after because the oil pressure drops too low mostly from being around 2qts low.

                  My 99′ dodge pickup used to do this.

                  So check your oil as well.

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