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Any Nissan Techs?

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  • #580735
    RileyRiley
    Participant

      More drama with the ’01 Maxima (5th Gen, 3.0L VQ30DE, 195,000 miles). The dreaded P0505 IAVC code and idle issues.

      The other night, I tried starting the car and the car would not start. I would classify it as a “crank, start, and immediately die” condition. I took the car to a local shop to learn that no codes were thrown. They cleaned the MAF sensor, adjusted the idle, and it temporarily solved the problem.

      After driving it a few days, the problem came back. On top of not idling, while holding my foot on the accelerator to keep the car going, I heard a light “pop” under the dash and smelled a burning electrical smell (it went away… have not seen any new ill effects).

      The local shop advised me to take it to the dealer. The dealer informed me that the IACV was bad, which probably meant the ECU is bad, too (but there is no way to know the ECU is bad until they put a new IACV on it). The tech said this is a very common problem and that he’s never seen an instance where only replacing the IACV completely solved the problem (meaning it left the ECU intact), but has heard of this happening. Does anyone have any experience with this repair and can offer advice on a course of action?

      IACV replacement – $500, ECU replacement/program – $900

    Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 31 total)
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    • #580739
      KylieKylie
      Participant

        That sucks dude. It sounds sort of similar do some dramas I am having with my Nissan over here in Australia.
        Sorry I don’t have any useful information for you. I hope you can figure this out 🙂

        #580749
        college mancollege man
        Moderator

          see if this helps. I’m a Nissan guy but this set up sucks.
          Your IAC goes bad and the ECM blows.

          http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/6dryq-nissan-datsun-maxima-2001-nissan-maxima-v6.html

          http://engine-codes.com/p0505_nissan.html

          #580752
          RileyRiley
          Participant

            Thanks for the links… that helps tremendously. It makes sense why I need to replace both.

            My next question is this: The overwhealming majority of posts online have stated when this happens, idle speed actually goes up where as mine does the opposite and will not stay running at all. Is this steady low/no idle still indicative of this problem?

            #580754
            college mancollege man
            Moderator

              [quote=”rileyd87″ post=88013]Thanks for the links… that helps tremendously. It makes sense why I need to replace both.

              My next question is this: The overwhealming majority of posts online have stated when this happens, idle speed actually goes up where as mine does the opposite and will not stay running at all. Is this steady low/no idle still indicative of this problem?[/quote]

              If the IAC is not working and in the closed position air will
              not bypass the throttle plate chocking the engine. I would not
              have adjusted the base idle with a bad IAC. This could be a
              contributing factor for the low idle. If you slightly hold the
              throttle open will the car run?

              #580763
              RileyRiley
              Participant

                [quote=”college man” post=88015][quote=”rileyd87″ post=88013]Thanks for the links… that helps tremendously. It makes sense why I need to replace both.

                My next question is this: The overwhealming majority of posts online have stated when this happens, idle speed actually goes up where as mine does the opposite and will not stay running at all. Is this steady low/no idle still indicative of this problem?[/quote]

                If the IAC is not working and in the closed position air will
                not bypass the throttle plate chocking the engine. I would not
                have adjusted the base idle with a bad IAC. This could be a
                contributing factor for the low idle. If you slightly hold the
                throttle open will the car run?[/quote]

                Yes, the car runs fine with even very slight pressure on the throttle. Even going down the highway, the momentum of the car is barely enough to keep it running if you are coming to a stop light (automatic trans).

                #580770
                NathanNathan
                Participant

                  Can a Nissan ECM be reprogrammed? ie… A module is taken out of a scrapped Maxima, eBay etc..??

                  I know Delphi produces an abhorrent amount of ECMs for various manu’s, some are closed firmware some aren’t.

                  Just asking for Riley’s sake. He could cut that price down enormously if it’s possible.

                  #580772
                  RileyRiley
                  Participant

                    [quote=”Just1Tech” post=88025]Can a Nissan ECM be reprogrammed? ie… A module is taken out of a scrapped Maxima, eBay etc..??

                    I know Delphi produces an abhorrent amount of ECMs for various manu’s, some are closed firmware some aren’t.

                    Just asking for Riley’s sake. He could cut that price down enormously if it’s possible.[/quote]

                    I was wondering that, myself. Obviously, the dealer wants to sell me a new one, but if I can buy a used one that will work with my engine, I’d be all over that.

                    Thanks for asking for me.

                    #580774
                    RileyRiley
                    Participant

                      I have attached a video I took of it’s behavior…

                      [video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UykvBwCpG-g&feature=youtu.be[/video]

                      #580804
                      college mancollege man
                      Moderator

                        You may be able to reprogram the computer but may be getting
                        the same problem.

                        #580869
                        EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                        Keymaster

                          If the computer is fried, I don’t think reprogramming will do much good. It doesn’t take much to destroy a driver or transistor in a computer and reprogramming won’t fix that. You might consider removing the IAC to see if it has coolant contamination. If it does, then your problem is likely what you’ve described according to the article that College man posted.

                          Keep us posted.

                          #580892
                          RileyRiley
                          Participant

                            After talking with the dealer today, they were able to confirm the IACV is bad (I failed to ask if it was due to coolant contamination, but the tests they ran confirmed it is bad). He’s going to help me out (and this will take longer, but he was happy to do it) is go ahead and order a new IACV from Nissan and replace it and see if the computer is bad, since he cannot determine whether or not the computer is bad until he puts a new IACV on the car.

                            All that to say the car will be in the shop for a few days, but I’m thankful he’s willing to work with me to try to save as much money as possible. Some, if not most dealers would condemn the whole package and not bother seeing if only replacing the IAVC would solve the problem, even if the odds are not in my favor.

                            I’ll keep you guys updated… thanks for the input. What happens the next few days will probably determine whether or not I keep the car.

                            #581059
                            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                            Keymaster

                              I’m glad to hear they’re being so accommodating. Thanks very much for the update. Let us know if you end up needing an ECU.

                              #582659
                              RileyRiley
                              Participant

                                Just to update, they were finally able to get a new IACV to them and installed today (weather was a big deal with acquiring parts). After changing it out, it is confirmed the ECM is bad. I appreciate their efforts to save me money (very much), but alas, the car gods are not on my side this time. I have decided to go with an OEM computer because Nissan will warrantee it and the new IACV, and had I decided to go with a used or aftermarket unit, there would be no warrantee for either part.

                                I am also going to take advantage of the opportunity to get some services done on the car, as well (transmission, oil, tires, brakes, etc.) because they offered me some savings for getting the work done now. The bill will come to a very nice $1500 (would have been just over $1400 with just the IACV and ECM replacement), but with the extra service work included, I end up with a decent deal.

                                Edited to Add: The “pop” and burning smell was also confirmed to be the ECM since it is housed under the dashboard of the car.

                                #582688
                                college mancollege man
                                Moderator

                                  [quote=”rileyd87″ post=88952]Just to update, they were finally able to get a new IACV to them and installed today (weather was a big deal with acquiring parts). After changing it out, it is confirmed the ECM is bad. I appreciate their efforts to save me money (very much), but alas, the car gods are not on my side this time. I have decided to go with an OEM computer because Nissan will warrantee it and the new IACV, and had I decided to go with a used or aftermarket unit, there would be no warrantee for either part.

                                  I am also going to take advantage of the opportunity to get some services done on the car, as well (transmission, oil, tires, brakes, etc.) because they offered me some savings for getting the work done now. The bill will come to a very nice $1500 (would have been just over $1400 with just the IACV and ECM replacement), but with the extra service work included, I end up with a decent deal.

                                  Edited to Add: The “pop” and burning smell was also confirmed to be the ECM since it is housed under the dashboard of the car.[/quote]

                                  Sounds like the deal is ok. keep us posted on the how the car runs. 🙂

                                  #582953
                                  EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                                  Keymaster

                                    That sucks but at least you got it solved. It’s great to hear that they were able to help you out like that. You don’t often find that at the dealer. Thanks for the updates. Keep us posted if things change and thanks for using the ETCG forum.

                                  Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 31 total)
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