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Camry headlights out

  • This topic has 2 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by none nonenone.
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  • #843457
    BrianBrian
    Participant

      Trying to figure out why low beams on 2003 Camry don’t work. No power at socket, but Headlight will work if I put power probe into the wire by the headlight and give it power. Headlight relay has power, and so do the fuses. What else should I check, think it could be a bad connection at fuse box? Or is another relay part of the circuit. All fuses in box are good. Thanks, Brian

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    • #843459
      CharlesCharles
      Participant

        Try swapping the high and low beam relays. Since your high beams are working, turn them on and pull the high beam relay to see if you can hear or feel it click when you plug it in. Do the same for the low beam relay and see whether to go toward the headlamps or back toward the switch.

        #843464
        none nonenone
        Participant

          Swapping relays is a good idea, but those relays can be kinda funny sometimes on Asian cars. According to my diagram, there won’t be a high beam relay though. They’ve got a messy relay system to use the high beams as DRL’s so you’ll probably want to swap the headlight relay with the DRL 2 or DRL 4 relay. If that’s a wash I’ll try to run you through some electrical diag. I don’t own a power probe of any sort so I’m going to offer advice based on voltmeter testing. If you’re any good with your power probe, you’ll know how to improvise off my directions anyway.

          Pull the headlight relay and make sure you’ve got something real close to battery voltage on two of the terminals in the fuse block. Key on or off doesn’t matter at this point. You just need battery voltage at two of the pins. Next, you’ll want to plug the relay partway back in so the circuits are now live, but you can still do some testing. You’re going to try to reach the pins of the relay and make sure this time that you’ve got battery voltage at three of the pins. Make sure the headlights are off when you do this. If this all checks out, you’re ok so far.

          Now turn the headlights on and one of the other pins that had battery voltage should pull down to zero volts and that last pin that never had any voltage should now have battery voltage.

          If the relay was nice enough to designate the pin numbers to the actual pins, pins 1 & 2 are relay control and 3 & 5 are for the switch side of the relay. Pins 1 & 5 should always have battery voltage as long as the battery has voltage to give. Pin 2 should have battery voltage with the lights off and no voltage with the lights switched on. Pin 3 should have no voltage with lights off and battery voltage with lights on. This is true even if the headlights still aren’t working. Just pay attention to where the power actually is while you’re switching the lights on & off during testing.

          Start there and tell us what you find when you can.

          Good Luck

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