Menu
  • Home
  • Topic
  • Engine timing after a head gasket job

Engine timing after a head gasket job

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here Engine timing after a head gasket job

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #444725
    jolsameljolsamel
    Participant

      I’m about to do a head gasket job on a eclipse and I wanted to know how to put the engine on time after i’m finished, do i need a special tool or is it like changing the timing belt where you just align the marks on the crank and cam pulleys?

    Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
    • Author
      Replies
    • #444726
      HondaTechJoeHondaTechJoe
      Participant

        You will have mark on the cam and crank. Assuming this is a 4 cyl. This vehicle has a balance shaft too. Make sure that you correctly align the balance shaft belt. The shafts will have timing marks on them. It has been a while but the oil pump may also have a mark. Remember to route the belt so that she slack is on the tensioner side. What motor is in the car by the way?

        #444727
        EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
        Keymaster

          Quoted From HondaTechJoe:

          You will have mark on the cam and crank. Assuming this is a 4 cyl. This vehicle has a balance shaft too. Make sure that you correctly align the balance shaft belt. The shafts will have timing marks on them. It has been a while but the oil pump may also have a mark. Remember to route the belt so that she slack is on the tensioner side. What motor is in the car by the way?

          Thanks man, I’m actually not that familiar with this engine so I really appreciate your input.

          #444728
          96CivicLX96CivicLX
          Participant

            I’m not sure which engine you are working on. If it is a turbo DOHC 2.0L 4G63 or the non turbo version (NOT the chrysler engine) I can help you out since I have done more than a few of these. Great advice by HondaTechJoe. If it is one of the motors I previously mentioned, there is a little trick to aligning the cam gears when placing the belt back onto the cam gears. Marking the belt and cam gears is important because one of the cam gears will rotate slightly once you take off the belt due to the cam lobes. Since you are doing a headgasket job, you need to have the head checked for warpage. The machine shop will also steam clean the head. If you used a paint marker, your timing marks will get steamed off the cam gears. So you may want to remove the cam gears before sending it off….or mark them by lightly scoring the teeth. Just make sure you don’t score the gears where the the belt rides because it could get torn. When you put the new belt on, you will have to use a wrench to move that cam gear to its proper position. I used to use the 1 inch paper clips (not regular paper clips, but the black clamps with the metal arms that swing out…sorry can’t remember what they are called). Once the cam gears are lined up and you slip the belt on, clamp the belt on with these. Use one each on the outer side of each cam gear to keep the belt from popping off the cam gear. You will be dealing with a hydrolic tensioner. BUY A NEW ONE!! The tensioner pulley is extremely important to get right. The pulley is actually going to keep most of the tension correct. The hydrolic tensioner works with the pulley, but will not tension the belt by itselt. DON’T pull the grenade pin on the tensioner until you make sure you have the correct tension on the belt by way of the pulley. Hope this helps.

            -Jason

            #444729
            HondaTechJoeHondaTechJoe
            Participant

              Jason you bring up a good point with the tensioner pulley. You will need a spanner wrench to set the tension on that pulley. There is a spec on pulley tension. You can probably find that on the Chiltons website. Search Chiltons in the forum to get access. If you don’t have the proper spanner wrench, you can attempt 90* needle nose pliers, but that will be the hard way. Good luck. Post your experience when done.

              #444730
              jolsameljolsamel
              Participant

                Thanks for all your answers, well its actually the not turbo version but they made it turbo. I’ll post the results when done. Thanks again.

                #444732
                96CivicLX96CivicLX
                Participant

                  also, the non turbo blocks don’t have oil squirters that the turbo blocks have and the threads and aren’t tapped for them to be installed. Compression is also higher since the motor was naturally aspirated. Just some things to think about if you are trying to build a high horse motor.

                  #444731
                  96CivicLX96CivicLX
                  Participant

                    I’m not sure if the non turbo blocks have the bolt on the side of the block that is removable to check to make sure the balance shaft is in phase. You can remove this bolt to allow a phillips head screw driver to enter into the block. If you can get the screw driver in all the way, then the weighted part of the balance shaft is in the proper position. If the screw driver runs into the balance shaft causing the screw driver to not go in all the way, the balance shaft needs to be rotated. When the screw driver goes in all the way and the timing mark is lined up, then you’re good.

                  Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
                  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
                  Loading…