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ETCG Answers Questions Live #74 (AMA) 9/28/2016

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge ETCG Answers Questions Live ETCG Answers Questions Live #74 (AMA) 9/28/2016

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This topic contains 41 replies, has 38 voices, and was last updated by Carla Sherman Carla Sherman 2 years, 5 months ago.

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #869189
    EricTheCarGuy 1
    EricTheCarGuy
    Keymaster

    I’m still getting used to this new system. Anyway, if you have a question for the show please post it here. I’ll be doing this one AMA style, so you can ask automotive as well as other questions and I’ll do my best to answer them on the show. This show will air 7pm EST 9/28/2016. Hope to see you there.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • #869192
    Michael Bloom
    Michael Bloom
    Participant

    I think you had said that you composed and played your intro theme. What kind of instruments do you play? Have you ever gigged?

    #869193
    Joshua Campbell
    Joshua Campbell
    Participant

    Do you like Lego minifigs?

    #869194
    Glenn Carter
    Glenn Carter
    Participant

    Hi Eric:

    Been a big fan for a few years now – first question. I have a 1993 S-10 Blazer 4×4 with the 4.3L Vortec and the infamous CFI “spider” fuel injection. I have a 305 small block I’d like to swap into it that uses TBI. I’m pretty confident on the mounts and physical alterations required (got the swap book from Summit on the small block S-10/Blazer swap), but the computer is what puzzles me. Will swapping in the EPROM from my old Camaro (the 305 donor vehicle) take care of the fuel injection system, or will it also affect the transmission system (Camaro has a 700R4, the Blazer a 4L60E). Planning on using the 305 emissions stuff with the Blazer to be in compliance with the smog police. I realize your expertise is in Honda/Acura cars, and your current project is a Ford Fairmont, but any info or suggestions you can offer would be awesome. Thanks for your time and for helping us all, and STAY DIRTY!!!
    Glenn

    #869195
    Francois
    Francois
    Participant

    Hi eric

    Watched ever video you made (i think). And never found an answer to this. In summer slightly wider tires than oem on a stock car will give better handling.

    Now in winter, is it a myth than we should get slim tires to dig in the snow, and than wider tires will float on top… Whats youre opinion on the winter tire myths.

    Im about to buy winter tires (Hakkapeliitta 215/55 R16). For my stock daily driver pontiac vibe. Just wondering should i get 225 wide like my summer tires ? Stick to oem size ? Go slimmer? I want the best safety possible.

    Thanks

    #869196
    Dave Tidman
    Dave Tidman
    Participant

    Hi Eric, since this is an AMA, I want to ask a seemingly strange question.

    You said you attended art school. What parts of that experience helped you most when you became a technician?

    Thanks for the vids and all the other stuff you do.

    Dave T.

    #869201
    Yiannis
    Yiannis
    Participant

    Hello Eric,

    here’s a question which you might find weird..
    What do you suggest when starting an engine, clutch depressed or not?

    Is the clutch release bearing being worn out when pressing the clutch with low oil pressure, as when starting the engine?

    In both cases, the part after the clutch (transmission etc.) is not engaged at all, so it’s not adding any friction, right?

    Many thanks and greetings from a Greek guy living in Germany!

    Yiannis

    #869202
    Anthony
    Anthony
    Participant

    Hi Eric,
    What is your process for cleaning and preparing an aluminum engine block for head gasket replacement? Same goes for head itself, or do you always have a machine shop resurface the head?

    #869204
    Guillaune Feral
    Guillaune Feral
    Participant

    Hi Eric. Long time fan, first time asker of questions, here.
    I have this intermittent problem with my car brakes: so sometimes, with no real way to predict it, my 1995 SAAB 9000 Aero would shake upon applying the brakes. The whole front of the vehicle, including the steering wheel, would shake violently. No ABS light or brake light would come up on the dash, and it would last for a couple minutes and then disappear. So, after some research – including some of your videos – I decided to take my front calipers apart and service them because why not. Discs were OK, pads too. I cleaned the calipers, and re-lubed the guide pin thingies (which were completely dry) with silicon grease and now the problem seems to have lessened a lot, but hasn’t completely disappeared. The car will still shake upon breaking from time to time, but the shaking in the steering wheel as gone. Am I right to think that I fixed something in the front and that I should probably do the same thing to the rear calipers?
    Also, the pistons on the front brakes were functional, still are (car brakes in a satisfying manner), but were full of rust. I could get rid of some of the rust with a wire brush, but the surface is still a bit bumpy with hard rust spots… should I worry about that or just leave them like that?

    Thanks in advance and keep them videos coming! 🙂

    #869205
    Timothy Rice
    Timothy Rice
    Participant

    Hi Eric,

    First I want to say, ive learned so much from you. Ive only been in the wrenching business about 6 years, so I’m still learning, but you’ve been a great influence!

    My Dad just recently acquired a 2001 Civic from our local Honda dealer. It was bought as is and I have done the work for the safety. Most was straight forward, new brakes, tires and a few small items.

    But my troubles right now are with the passengers side power window. The number 22 fuse (Passengers Window) keeps failing when replaced. The other three fuses for the other windows are fine, they all work as normal. Wiring seems fine, and the passengers window works if I apply power directly to it. Would you have any idea where to keep looking? Any help is appreciated. Cheers from Canada!

    #869207
    Benjamin
    Benjamin
    Participant

    Hey Eric! I’ve been a fan of your show since the beginning. I’m excited to hear Oliver start up for the first time! My question do you have any experience with after market remote start systems. I’ve heard they mess with your ignition system, I’ve heard they are a waste of money. I have also heard they were the best thing they ever invested in. I’ve Been thinking about putting one on my truck but idk if it’s worth the money. Any tips would help thank you! Remember stay dirty! P.S. my apologies for posting two questions I couldn’t figure out how to delete one of them.

    #869208
    Benjamin
    Benjamin
    Participant

    Hey Eric! Been a fan since the beginning. I’m so excited to hear Oliver start up for the first time! I have a 1997 Silverado with a 5.7. I have recently noticed my exhaust manifold gaskets are shot there is terrible exhaust leaks all around that area on both sides. I was wondering if it’s worth replacing those cause my manifold bolts have probably have never been out and they are extremely rusty. I know those bolts break really easy and it’s a nightmare if you do break them. Is it ok if I just leave it or would you suggest I replace the gaskets? Thanks Eric. And remember stay dirty!

    #869209
    Dalton Mathison
    Dalton Mathison
    Participant

    Hi Eric
    Sorry for what could be a really long question. I have a 1994 Oldsmobile 98 Regency with the 3.8L with 175k on it. A few months back after a trip it threw two codes at me, P0321 and P1361, the car idled fine, but when you drove it was overall cruddy. Once at highway speeds and it was in overdrive, it would shake and sputter, it would hesitate at acceleration, but would idle fine. If you could find ways to get the engine light off, it would drive perfectly fine. The codes only popped up once the engine was started and never while driving. A trick I used to get from point A to point B with no engine light was; i would start the engine, and the instant the engine was started id shut it back off and start it again. This would get rid of the engine light and the car would drive fine until i shut it off and restarted it again. A friend owes me one, so he changed my crank sensor which had no effect and then changed out my entire ICM with new coils, which got rid of the engine light and the car drove fine for a few days. Yesterday i went to start it and on startup the engine light was back on, i did my key trick and it went off and I have not seen it since. I was leaning tword a bad PCM since on these older GM 94-95’s I know the PCMs had issues and when they did they would usally throw these two codes. Just curious as to your opinion on it. Thanks so much and love your videos!

    #869210
    Nate Thibodeau
    Nate Thibodeau
    Participant

    Why is it that many repair shops(even some well known chain shops), when you have work done to your vehicle, that none of it shows up on CarFox or other reporting services? I have a buddy of mine that is selling a car and he just dealt with a buyer who claimed that since the maintenance was not on CarFox…..it was not done by a reputable and licensed mechanic who would have been required to report any maintenance done to a vehicle.

    You would want this info to show up on these reporting sites for best re-sale ability etc wouldn’t u? Also, one of the key things people searching for a used car go by these days right? Is there a better online source than CarFox for detailed history and info on a used vehicle?

    #869214
    fredsmythson
    fredsmythson
    Participant

    I have a 1996 Ford Thunderbird with a 4.6L engine. The car had some freon leaks in the AC system. I replaced the high and low pressure lines, dryer/accumulator, orifice tube and compressor. I charged up the AC system, but I’m getting some weird pressure readings from the manifold gauge.

    Here are the psi readings:

    AC on – normal setting = 60 psi low side / 340 psi high side
    AC on – max setting = 58 psi low side / 330 psi high side
    AC off – 120 psi low side / 140 psi high side

    All these pressures seemed to be too high. Temps coming out of the vents were around 55F degrees. Also, the AC compressor did not cycle on and off. The clutch would just stay engaged while the AC system was turned on. When I added the first can of freon, the compressor did cycle on and off – probably as a result of that the system was low on freon and hadn’t been fully charged yet.

    I was working on the car in a city located in the Southern California desert, so the outside temperature was around 105F degrees. Would a high ambient temperature cause higher than normal AC pressure readings? Also, would the hot weather cause the AC compressor to constantly be engaged when the AC system is on? Are there any other AC system components I can look at to see why the system pressure is so high? Thanks!

    #869215
    Hunter
    Hunter
    Participant

    Hey Eric just signed up on the website.
    I have a 1994 Dodge Dakota 4×4 with the 318 and 5speed manual. This my first vehicle and I really love the darn thing. The entire drive line is in great shape despite having 204 thousand miles. The same can not be said for the frame however, it’s just about rusted in half.
    Here’s my idea, find another Dakota from around the same time period with a good body and solid frame and swap my engine and transmission into it. Here’s the thing all of the Dakotas I’ve been able to find are automatics, how hard is it to convert from auto to manual? I’ve done some reading and it doesn’t sound that hard I just wanted to get your thoughts on this.
    Also this is probably a dumb question but do you know if the engine and transmission can be pulled out together or have to be removed separately? And is it safe to lift the engine by the intake? Some people say not to and some say they do it all the time. Thanks.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)

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