ETCG Answers Questions Live #82 (AMA) 2/15/2017

[EricTheCarGuy]

It’s another Wednesday where I’ll be answering your questions in this live AMA show. The show starts at 7pm EST, -5GMT. The earlier you post, the more likely it is I’ll answer your question. I’ll do my best to answer as many questions as I can during the hour long show.

Once the show concludes I’ll post the video here and close the thread until the next live show in 2 weeks.

Thanks for posting!

Topic

[kelly]

Hi Eric,
1997 Mustang GT, 4.6L, 300k miles

I am getting a slight “clunky” feel in the steering wheel while driving, especially when making minor corrections.

I performed the “wiggle-the-wheel” test (official term) per your videos and cannot detect any obvious looseness in the outer or inner tie rod ends or ball joints. I pulled the steering rack boots to visually inspect the inner tie rod ends and found what appears to be grease inside the cavity on the driver’s side. Is there supposed to be grease covering the teeth of the rack piston? (That attaches to the inner tie rod end)

I was unsure if it was grease or a combination of leaked power steering fluid and gunk. The boots are not wet and there are no obvious P/S leaks.
My only other possible culprits I can think of are the U-joints in the steering column, the rag-joint, or that the internals of the rack-and-pinion are simply worn out.

Thoughts? (Picture attached)

Thank you for your EXCELLENT help with my EGR issues on the same car.

Kelly
Atlanta, Ga.

Attachments:

• 97StangInnerTR.jpg

[Mike Barnes]

Hi Eric

I have an 02 Odyessy with 155,000 miles. I am replacing the rear wheel bearings and the dust shields. Do you have any suggestions for seperating the parking brake cable from the dust shield? I cut the shield around the right rear cable with a cutting wheel. Seems like there must be a better way. Honestly this issue has been the biggest time bandit on this job. Thanks for your great videos and your encouragement

[Junkyarddawg]

i just got a used car that is supposed to have 13 inch wheels but has 15 inch that hit when making sharp turns how can i fix this?

[Josh]

Eric,

Josh again, just before I posted the question to you at the last AMA I had a conversation about making more money with my Dad which prompted my question to you. Just after I saw your reply I searched for NATEF accredited automotive programs and to my surprise I found that the community college 2 minutes from my work has an 18 month training program. I am now enrolled and hope to start this summer or this fall at the latest.

Anyone else wanting to get similar info can go to:

http://www.natef.org/natef-and-you/students-parents/find-accredited-schools.aspx

And perform a simple search.

Thanks for the straight talk and stay dirty!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[chris]

Eric,
If you had to make a life decision choice on a non automotive job opportunity what would it be and why? (YouTube / video production doesn’t count)

[Will Bush]

What college did you go to? What about it was so good that made you got there> I’m currently applying to michigan because they have a good program.

[Isaias Almanza]

[color=#00ff00]Hey Eric,

[size=4]What fuel will you be running on the Fairmont and will it be E-85 compatible?

Thanks!

ialmanza4 from Salt Lake City, UT[/size]

[/color]

[Christopher Recupero]

have ever you worked on a crossfire injection trans am or corvette? what was your experience?

[Nick Greenfield]

Hi Eric,

In your video on rebuilding the Ford 8.8 rear end for the #DarkMatterPickachu car, you mentioned to NEVER loosen the pinion nut, only to tighten. I recently replaced the carrier and pinion bearings on my Ford 8.8 rear end. While setting the preload, I tightened it a little too much and was getting about 40 lbs per inch of preload. I know the spec is 16-29 inch lbs. So I backed the nut off MAYBE 1/8 of a turn and that got the preload to about 24 which is in spec. I know I wasn’t supposed to, but what harm will come from backing it off 1/8 of a turn?

Love the videos, you have taught me so much.

Thanks!

-Nick G.

[ScannerDanner]

When are you going to do another video with ScannerDanner. I heard he is a pretty cool dude 🙂

[Damien]

Changed a couple spark plugs on my ’92 Tempo 3.0 now it sounds like this when I start it up:
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRc8EVfQCq0[/video]

I dropped one of the old spark plugs in the engine bay when I was changing them, could that be the culprit?

[Edgar]

Hey, Eric. I have an ’90 accord I’ve been bringing back mechanically. It’s going well. Thanks for all the stuff you’ve done on the CB7 btw.
Anyway, summer’s coming and I’ve got the old R12 system,( that doesn’t work anyway). Where do I start to do a conversion? Are there systems in other cars I can pull at the junkyard to start with or is there an affordable system to purchase and install myself?
Thanks, Glad you’ve been around more than once

[duncan Cameron]

Hi Eric, I have a question. I’m purchasing a broken 96 Mustang GT from my uncle, who is a mechanic. His diagnoses is a bad crank bearing. With tax returns coming up, a couple of options have presented themselves. I could replace the 4.6L with a re-manufactured one, replace the engine with a 302, or send the car into shop and have them replace the bearings. Which of these options would be most cost effective? Replacing the bearings myself wouldn’t be possible. i don’t have the space, or the knowledge.

[Nicholas]

did you ever watch davidsfarm?

[Robb Ryniak]

Hi Eric! Robb Ryniak here 😉 OK, since my last power upgrades to my SHO, I’m getting a bit of wheel hop under WOT between 1st and 2nd. I’m told by local guys that I need to upgrade my suspension bushings from the stock rubber to polyurethane. OK, cool. What if no one makes poly bushings for your ride? Where do you source them?

[Author]

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