This topic contains 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 
Xavier Ne-yo 1 year, 1 month ago.
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Topic
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2002 Honda CRV EX AWD AT, 2.4L, 255,000mi.
Work performed:
Remedied oil leaks by replacing VTEC solenoid (spool valve assy) and oil pressure switch.
Result:
Engine still losing/burning oil at the rate of 1 qt per 430mi.Performed compression test dry/wet.
CRANKED engine listening to start cycle, held for 4 cycles.
Note: I did not have the throttle wide open (did not touch throttle) while cranking engine as per the instructions. (I forgot. Hope that it does not invalidate my test results.)PSI VALUES:
CYLINDER #1 DRY 162 WET 175
CYLINDER #2 DRY 159 WET 174
CYLINDER #3 DRY 161 WET 170
CYLINDER #4 DRY 175 WET 175
The specs I have say that the pressure should be greater than 135 psi with no variation greater than 28 psi between cylinders.Question: Do these values look good to you? If so then where is the oil going?
From what I can tell they look pretty good.
I was thinking of doing a leak down test next chance I get. Any other ideas?
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Replies
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To begin with ..
NOT having the throttle body wide open will give you odd readings.
Suggest you go back and re-perform the test properly to get a more accurate set of numbers.
As to the oil usage ..
Your either:
Burning it….
Inspection of the plugs and using a bore scope to inspect each cylinder would be a good start there.
Check for oil fouling.
A leak down test could confirm a possible head gasket issue or other issue if you hear the air pressure coming from the oil fill.
Also look for excessive blue smoke from the tail pipe.Leaking it …..
Externally, via valve cover gaskets, oil filter, oil cooler (if so equipped)
Main seals, cam seals
Faulty PCVSuggest you degrease the engine completely.
Add UV dye to the oil and drive around a bit, then check using a UV light to see if there are any external leaks.
I will re-run the compression test the next chance I get. My time with the vehicle is limited so it may not be until this weekend or the next.
The manual says “Pressure check at 250(min-1) rpm with wide open throttle. (See DesignSpecs for ratio)” What is 250(min-1)?
As far s burning it: I checked the plugs when I did the compression test, there was no oil fouling, plugs looked good, all dry with a nice tannish color, no glazing. No blue smoke at exhaust. I can test for hydrocarbons in the coolant, although the coolant color and level remains good. I do have a an inspection camera/bore scope but didn’t have time to use it, I’ll do so on re-test.
Leaking: I found the worst offenders and fixed them, although I still see a slight film on one side of the oil pan, but no drops or pooling of oil anywhere. Previously I did degrease the engine but did not add any dye. When I fixed the oil leaks I also replaced the PCV valve and the associated breather hose that had collapsed (it was causing a long start condition).
History: I replaced the timing chain 2 years ago. Since then I also replaced the Knock sensor, fuel pump, 3rd clutch pressure switch, front lower control arms, ball joints and struts.. With the high mileage this car has I figured it was probably having issues with engine wear, ie rings, valves etc. But my initial compression test results didn’t support that conclusion. Since the results are suspect I will redo and go from there.
It’s good to have others to give advice and bounce ideas off of just in case I’m missing something. Sometimes you can get too close to a problem and miss something obvious.
I will re-run the compression test the next chance I get. My time with the vehicle is limited so it may not be until this weekend or the next.
Always a good thing to do it proper.The manual says “Pressure check at 250(min-1) rpm with wide open throttle. (See DesignSpecs for ratio)” What is 250(min-1)?
I doubt that it is temperature…
My guess it that it is RPM (250 RPM) using the starter motorAs far s burning it: I checked the plugs when I did the compression test, there was no oil fouling, plugs looked good, all dry with a nice tannish color, no glazing. No blue smoke at exhaust. I can test for hydrocarbons in the coolant, although the coolant color and level remains good. I do have a an inspection camera/bore scope but didn’t have time to use it, I’ll do so on re-test.
Judging from your findings, I doubt your burning that much oil.
Most likely a leak[color=orange][i]Leaking: I found the worst offenders and fixed them, although I still see a slight film on one side of the oil pan, but no drops or pooling of oil anywhere. Previously I did degrease the engine but did not add any dye. When I fixed the oil leaks I also replaced the PCV valve and the associated breather hose that had collapsed (it was causing a long start condition).
[/i][/color]
Quite possible it may be a combination of leaks and faulty PCV.
Though I would still re clean the engine both top and bottom and add the UV dye.
That will make your task a lot easier.History: I replaced the timing chain 2 years ago. Since then I also replaced the Knock sensor, fuel pump, 3rd clutch pressure switch, front lower control arms, ball joints and struts.. With the high mileage this car has I figured it was probably having issues with engine wear, ie rings, valves etc. But my initial compression test results didn’t support that conclusion. Since the results are suspect I will redo and go from there.
It’s good to have others to give advice and bounce ideas off of just in case I’m missing something. Sometimes you can get too close to a problem and miss something obvious.
That’s why we’re all hearCYLINDER #1 DRY 125 WET 190
CYLINDER #2 DRY 50 WET 110
CYLINDER #3 DRY 30 WET 80
CYLINDER #4 DRY 90 WET 145Does this mean Head gasket is blown or piston rings/wall?
Also, this was on a cold engine since we can’t get the car to start
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