- This topic has 15 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 7 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
[quote=”Labrat0116″ post=173584]How does one remove a stripped bleeder screw from a brake caliper without removing the caliper from the vehicle ?
1998 Dodge Dakota 2WD Left Front.
TIA[/quote]
is the treads stripped or the head stripped….
I would try a flare wrench first and see if that works…. there are some sockets that you can try to get it off.. but some of them req impacts guns to use them… if you can upload a picture of that you have I can give you a better ideaThe head is stripped.
I’ve read that a ring spanner wrench is effective as well.
I’ll get a pic here shortly. Thanks
Get a socket that is too small, hammer it on and then try.
Impact gun would work best, otherwise use a breaker bar and apply sharp hits to it to give it some shock force.I’d also heat the area around it first.
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=173615]Get a socket that is too small, hammer it on and then try.
Impact gun would work best, otherwise use a breaker bar and apply sharp hits to it to give it some shock force.I’d also heat the area around it first.[/quote]Will do. Thank you.
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=173615]Get a socket that is too small, hammer it on and then try.
Impact gun would work best, otherwise use a breaker bar and apply sharp hits to it to give it some shock force.I’d also heat the area around it first.[/quote]
dont use a torch use a heat gun only…
1. I think break fuild is famable
2. you would be working very close to the brake line hose and would melt itBrake line hose is correct but brake fluid ignites at 1065°.
It’s good to note this though.
Mostly when I talk to DIYers that are doing things at home I think of them using one of those little propane torches to heat the metal.[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=173699]Brake line hose is correct but brake fluid ignites at 1065°.
It’s good to note this though.
Mostly when I talk to DIYers that are doing things at home I think of them using one of those little propane torches to heat the metal.[/quote]propane torch temperature 1,995 degrees Celsius (3,623 degrees Fahrenheit).
Mapp is 2925 °C (5300 °F)
ya, if you use a heat gun you shouldnt be able to get that high… but the hose I dont know what temp they are rated at… should say on the hose but I count find any hose spec online*shrug* the torch shouldn’t be heating the fluid directly though since it’s on the caliper.Heat absorption.
I just assumed a little common sense of not lighting the vehicle on fire was a given. Lol.
[quote=”Rob781″ post=173688]bolt extractor sockets are the best but req an impact[/quote]
Good thought! After watching one of Eric’s videos many moons ago, I went out and bought a 10-piece Craftsman “Damaged” Bolt/Nut Remover” Set.
Here is a similar one I found on line:
Prolly found it on sale as I doubt I paid more than $20 for the set. As it turned out, I did use it recently on the brake job I was working on. Works just fine with my 3/8-in drive socket wrench. If something is really stuck I give PB Blaster a chance to work and hit it over several days. Then some tapping on the socket as force is applied, I have found helps too. The tapping may not replicate the motion of the impact wrench, but any motion tangential to the force applied tends to help in breaking things free. Of course a cheater bar can give some extra UMPGH to the situation too. I think I’d try all of that BEFORE applying “The Big Red Wrench!”
Oh and I assume new bleeder screws will be installed? Don’t forget to clean up the threads on the caliper before installing a new one. Also, in my recent brake job, I also used a scant amount of anti-seize on the threads of the new bleeder screw. Want to make sure to not get any on the end (seat) and contaminate the brake fluid.
Also think about getting some speed bleeders, if you are buying new. I found a pair for my rear brakes on eBay at a whopping $8, shipped to me! They were listed as Honda Motorcycle bleeders, but the thread pitch was the same and they were just 10mm longer than the OE ones, but had plenty of room to fit them in.
ya thats one thing bad about those bolt extrator sockets… they really eat up the head but they are the best with impacts and the impact help to brake up the dirt inside of it too and I havent really founds anything better then them….. I dont think I would use anti-seize on a bleader screw because your passing fuild through it… and might cause problems with the caliper but it you did already I wouldnt worry to much…. also dont forget to get new copper washer for the new bleader screw
[quote=”Rob781″ post=173777]. I dont think I would use anti-seize on a bleader screw because your passing fuild through it… and might cause problems with the caliper but it you did already I wouldnt worry to much…. also dont forget to get new copper washer for the new bleader screw[/quote]
OK what am I missing? How would a very small amount of anti-seize on the threads (only) of a brake bleeder screw effect the brakes in a bad way?
Do I have this correct? When one is bleeding the brakes the fluid flows around the opened seat points and into the hole on the side and out through the center of the screw. So it seems like very little if any fluid should contact the threads (and thus any applied anti-seize), if at all. Since things flow the path of least resistance isn’t brake fluid more likely to flow through the bleeder screw and out, rather than try to go out the threads?
Does any brake fluid come in contact with the threads when the bleeder screw is tightened down and sealed at the seat?
IF one slops anti-seize on the seat or lower section of the bleeder screw, I can see when the two fluids could mix and effect things.
So that is the way I am thinking about it. But realize that those with much more experience aren’t supporting the use of anti-seize here, so there must be something I am missing? Can someone clarify and help out?
You can apply a tiny amount of the same , usually blue, silicone grease they use when assembling calipers and brake cylinders.
why I said about anti-seize is when you aply it there is 2 times it has chances to get in the lower part… when you put the screw in you will not put it in acactly you will try to wibble it in to get it in… therefore getting it on the wall of the screw hole and when you screw the screw in you can then put it in deeps of the hole…. the other thing is when you put it on the threds…when you screw it in it will sweeze in both directions and can then go deeper in the hole… most of it will be very little but could get in the system… but if it did shouldnt cause to much of a problem but anti-seize when it drys gets gritty and could cause problems and anit- seze has particals in it to help it self from siezing and that might cause problems
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.