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Is Traction More Important Than Power?

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge ETCG1 Video Discussions Is Traction More Important Than Power?

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  • #885218
    EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy

      Some theory about why I wasn’t getting traction and how I plan to get it back the next time I’m at the track.

      I’d say it’s a sticky situation, but…..

    Viewing 4 replies - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
    • Author
    • #885243

        Without traction, you have nothing. That isn’t just true on the track, but also on wet or snowy roads.

        Personally, other than looks, I don’t understand what the skinny front wheels will do for your situation. The rearward weight transfer is going to be the same, regardless of what you’ve got on the front axles. And the skinny front wheels are going to degrade your controllability during normal street driving.

        I don’t remember what type of diff you have. Limited slip or fully locked?

        I would imagine that the characteristics of your torque and power curves also have a lot to do with how your car responds when you stomp on the GO pedal. If things spool up to MAX early in the RPM range, you’ll get quick hole shots at the expense of low speed traction. Maybe a mid or high range cam will help you get more controllable launches, with the power coming on at a higher road speed.

        Lastly, I realize you’re fighting wheel spin during the video, but, it seems like when you back out of it and have things under control, the steering wheel still isn’t centered. Alignment issues, or is the wheel clocked at an angle?

        Zac AleksovskiZac Aleksovski

          Skinny front runners for less rolling resistance. Can air up the fronts he has now to max pressure. Prob help for a few 100ths of a sec. The biggest slicks and suspension that can handle it that is adjusted correctly. 90/10 (90% compression 10% rebound damping) front shocks, no front sway bar for better weight transfer. Of course this takes away from the streetable aspect from the car. Depends on what you are after. I did some local bracket racing over 30yrs ago on a budget. Slapper bars, worn out M&H race master rear tires, front tires pumped up to 35psi, $45 smaller combustion chamber big exhaust valve heads from the junk yard along with a junk yard higher ratio ring and pinion. By no means I’m a drag racing expert.


            i cant remember what he stuck in the rear end of that thing. was it limited slip, open or selectable locker? if he went with something like an eaton e locker and a little wider tire in the rear that thing would kick some but.

            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy

              More than one person asked what differential I have.

              Remember, it’s a STREET car. I never intended the car to be a drag racer. I just wanted to see what it would do in the 1/4 mile.

              As for what’s next. I’m thinking I might do a comparison between drag radials and bias ply slicks just to see what the difference is when I go back to the track in the spring. There’s plenty of debate in the comments of the video. I’m curious to see what the difference is on this car.

              I appreciate everyones input, but I need you to take something into consideration. I only went to the drag strip so that I could see what the car would do at WOT. I say that for those of you that believe it was my driving technique that was the problem, and also for those that commented on the AF ratios being too lean.

              Also, I only made 2 runs down the track. On the second run I had a backfire and damaged my muffler. I figured between that, and the fact I couldn’t get a quick pass, it was time to go home.

              I got exactly what I wanted out of the experience. That was to learn what the car would do under full power. Now I know, and when I go back, I’ll be more prepared.

              Thanks again for everyones input.

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