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My car overheated and now it wont start!

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This topic contains 25 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by Nicole Peach Nicole Peach 1 year, 4 months ago.

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  • #518493
    kicknhobo
    kicknhobo
    Participant

    I drive a 1994 Nissan Sentra 1.6
    My coolant system had been leaking coolant for the past 3 weeks. I’ve been putting plain water in it until I had saved up the money to properly diagnose and fix it. Today, before heading to work, I topped off the coolant system with plain water but forgot to put the cap back on. After about 15 minutes of driving on the highway at 65 MPH, I noticed the temperature was increasing at an alarming rate, as if I had forgotten to add more water. Since work was only 17 miles away, I figured I would be able to make it and continued driving. After another short amount of time, the temperature continued to rise way higher than it had before. I proceeded to make my way to the next exit, but just as I was exiting the car shut down. I pulled over on the off ramp and opened the hood to find the coolant tank cap right as I left it, unattached. After I left it unattached. After I let it cool down for about a half hour, I added some more water in the radiator and put the cap back on this time, then when I went to start the car (the owner be for me had a switch put in for the starter) I turned the key and triggered the starter to do its thing however the engine wouldn’t turn. As I looked back under the hood, I saw the water I just put in on the ground under the car. After getting a ride to work and 6 hours later I returned back to my car and the same thing is occurring (engine won’t turn).
    1. If the coolant tank or hoses are bad and are leaking water/coolant and not getting it to the engine, would this explain why the car won’t even start? If this is not the problem, any ideas as to what it is?
    2. What should my next move be after getting it back home?

Viewing 10 replies - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)
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  • #519771
    kicknhobo
    kicknhobo
    Participant

    Here are some more videos. this video is of the cylinders and this one is the water pump

    #520117
    kicknhobo
    kicknhobo
    Participant

    Ill be running the compression test no later than the 24 (my next payday) and i think ill have to replace the head gaskets. My Book tells me to torque to “22 ,43 then loosen all bolts completely then to 22, 43-47, and 55-73” why do i have to loosen them half way in?

    #520157
    MARK FELDSTEIN
    MARK FELDSTEIN
    Participant

    Nice videos ! I’d give those an excellent in fact. Remember there’s a bolt tightening pattern you should find in the specs for that particular engine. The reason to tighten then loosen them as per the instructions, is to evenly seat the head gasket on the head THEN retorque it to ensure a proper, even fit. Also, when you get around to it, make sure you get all the old gasket material cleaned off before putting on the new one. ;>)
    Good work.
    M.

    #520188
    kicknhobo
    kicknhobo
    Participant

    OK! I got the compression tester!!!! Bad news there is ZERO compression in all the cylinders 🙁 . Dose that mean my head is warped/cracked? what should be my next move? im thinking of taking the head off and checking that. Video

    #520200
    MARK FELDSTEIN
    MARK FELDSTEIN
    Participant

    Yep. But be prepared because it may look like a flooded basement. And when you pull the head off, take a steel ruler and check for flatness or take it to a machine shop and have them check it for being warped. Oh yeah, you might order a water pump as that looks like toast.
    Gotta go earn a living. Back tomorrow. Good luck !
    M.

    #520244
    Bill
    Bill
    Participant

    If the engine got hot enough that it has no compression on any cylinders you might be better off searching for a used engine. If you redo the head it might run again but there could be damage to the rings etc. that you can’t see.

    #520320
    MARK FELDSTEIN
    MARK FELDSTEIN
    Participant

    Wysetech is quite right. IMHO, when you have a wounded head gasket and low compression on one or more cylinders, it’s prudent to thoroughly examine all the engine components to check for additional damage. In your case, it might be both more efficient and cost saving to either buy a used engine or short block it if the head is still good.

    If you buy a used engine, carefully read any warranty it’s supplied with. You’re looking for things like what the shop and/or the original seller of the engine will do for you over what time period in the event the replacement engine goes kaputsky and what they’re obliged to fix or stick you with. If they don’t offer a warranty of some kind, I’d either walk (or run) away or see if you can purchase a separate extended warranty and again, read that one really really carefully.

    #520439
    Steve
    Steve
    Participant

    Sorry I haven’t read all the comments but from your videos, seems you definitely have water in your engine that shouldn’t be there. And the water leaking from your water pump seems excessive. Unfortunately seems a head gasket replacement is in order. I feel your pain since I had one done last November!! Keep us updated.

    #988000
    Terry Giancaterino
    Terry Giancaterino
    Participant

    OMG! Exactly my story, even forgetting to put the radiator cap on before I left the house. The check engine light came on, I pulled over and turned it off. I popped the hood and sure enough, I forgot to put the cap on and it was sitting where I left it. There was heavy steam coming out of my radiator so that tells me the radiator had water, (water = steam). IF it was without water, there would be nothing coming out of the radiator. Now the car won’t start back up. It was running perfectly before I turned it off. It cranks but doesn’t fire. I had it towed to the garage and the mechanic tells me I blew the engine. The engine turns over, it just doesn’t start. How can I have blown my Toyota engine that quickly? And there was water and oil in my car at the time I turned it off. Is it totaled as he said? I find that hard to believe. It had been needing coolant more often that it should so there had been a preexiting coolant/water issue before this, but nothing major. It NEVER pegged straight up, the lever only went 3/4 up and not 100%- ever!

    #988016
    Nicole Peach
    Nicole Peach
    Participant

    My car literally went to the garage yesterday evening for this i have a ford fiesta zetec s, the cooolant has needed topping up a lot more past few weeks but never was empty car seemed fine the day before. Yesterday morning however it was craking but would not fire? There was a rainbow looking colour patch on the floor by right front wheel but didnt smell like fuel any advice on what people think this might be? I guess it will be looked at this morning 🙁

Viewing 10 replies - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)

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