Menu
  • Home
  • Topic
  • Non-working dome light – why does multimeter show “OL” rather than voltage?

Non-working dome light – why does multimeter show “OL” rather than voltage?

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here Non-working dome light – why does multimeter show “OL” rather than voltage?

This topic contains 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Nightflyr * Richard Kirshy 8 months, 3 weeks ago.

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #895651
    Gareth Randall
    Gareth Randall
    Participant

    I’m trying to diagnose a non-working dome light in my 2002 Ford Escape. The bulb is the cylindrical type that looks like a fuse with with terminals at either end, and it’s not blown – confirmed by both a visual and continuity check.

    When I measure across the two terminals in the bulb socket, my multimeter displays “OL” rather than a DC voltage (and then drops to zero when I push the switch to turn the dome light off).

    Does this indicate a short somewhere? The meter is definitely working correctly (confirmed by reading correct voltages across other components in the vehicle).

Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • #895652
    Nightflyr *
    Richard Kirshy
    Participant

    If there is a short, I would think a fuse would blow.
    I’d go with a possible open / break in the circuit.

    #895653
    Gareth Randall
    Gareth Randall
    Participant

    If there’s a possible broken wire, why does the meter reading change when I push the switch to turn the light off? It reads zero volts with the switch off, OL with the switch on. Why not zero volts or OL all the time, regardless of the switch position?

    I’m not trying to be argumentative BTW, just trying to learn 🙂

    #895654
    Nightflyr *
    Richard Kirshy
    Participant

    [quote=”Dunebasher” post=204162]If there’s a possible broken wire, why does the meter reading change when I push the switch to turn the light off? It reads zero volts with the switch off, OL with the switch on. Why not zero volts or OL all the time, regardless of the switch position?

    I’m not trying to be argumentative BTW, just trying to learn :)[/quote]
    Could possibly be an issue with the switch itself or perhaps a control module ( if so equipped ) you will need a wiring diagram for your specific vehicle and that specific circuit .

Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Loading…