This topic contains 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Richard Kirshy 1 year ago.
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I’m trying to diagnose a non-working dome light in my 2002 Ford Escape. The bulb is the cylindrical type that looks like a fuse with with terminals at either end, and it’s not blown – confirmed by both a visual and continuity check.
When I measure across the two terminals in the bulb socket, my multimeter displays “OL” rather than a DC voltage (and then drops to zero when I push the switch to turn the dome light off).
Does this indicate a short somewhere? The meter is definitely working correctly (confirmed by reading correct voltages across other components in the vehicle).
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