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Okay so I looked around on the forums both for the codes I have and my problem my 1996 Pontiac Grand Am (2.4l) seems to be having, and I couldn’t really find any definitive answers. So basically, my car starts up fine and everything, but the hotter the engine gets, the more it hesitates when I push the accelerator. On my OBD-II scanner it gave off the codes P1133, and P0171, which apparently indicate “Bank 1: engine too lean” or something of the like. The engine also almost seems like it is shaking a bit at idle, and the rpm’s fluctuate between around 700-850 rpms, not major but it is noticeable. I changed the spark plugs, and the spark plug wires. the air filter is good, and I didn’t notice any vacuum leaks. It has good oil all around. The one thing I am working on changing is the fuel filter (needs changed anyways) but the two nuts on the inlet seemed to have fused together through heat, so I cant take that side off because they are together. I don’t even know what I am going to do about that. Anyways, this problem pretty much started happening after I degreased the engine (covered up all electronic parts of course) and sprayed the engine bay down. I hate to bother you guys with such a long post (as I am new here) but I am trying to solve this and it’s bothering the hell out of me.
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I would be looking at the wiring going to your o2 sensor on bank 1. You may have damaged the wiring with the degreaser or water when you cleaned the engine bay.
Thanks for the advice, but as it turns out it is the fuel filter (99% sure) because I took it partially off, attempted to clean it and put it back on (I can’t figure out how to take the inlet part that goes to the gas tank off, I’ll attach a picture.) and the engine light went away and it runs just fine now, no problems. Just gotta figure out how to take that fuel filter off, it seems there is a tool I need or something because it isn’t a bolt setup on that side. (In the pic it’s the thing on the right side of the fuel filter, it seems the shaft goes inside that metal thing.)
There is a special tool to disconnect that fitting. They are quick connect fuel lines but unfortunately not quick disconnect. Any auto parts store should carry what you need. Just ask for GM/Ford fuel line quick connect tool.
Oh and do yourself a favor and soak that fitting down with a penetrant fluid. Sometimes they can be a real bear to take off if they haven’t been touched before.
Alrighty thanks for the advice, I figured there was something I needed to take it off but wasn’t sure.
[quote=”blacK20″ post=37652]There is a special tool to disconnect that fitting. They are quick connect fuel lines but unfortunately not quick disconnect. Any auto parts store should carry what you need. Just ask for GM/Ford fuel line quick connect tool.
Oh and do yourself a favor and soak that fitting down with a penetrant fluid. Sometimes they can be a real bear to take off if they haven’t been touched before.[/quote]
sounds right to me.;)
Okay so I bought the Fuel Line Disconnect Tool, and after some pulling and what not I got it to come out of the metal tube/housing. Here is a picture with the new fuel filter installed (for any future reference for people with the same problem), and the plastic clip that replaces the metal one that is harder to get out. It can now be disconnected without the tool, all you do is squeeze the clip and it comes out. Thanks for the tips, and as it turns out my Firebird has the same type of connection so I’ll know what to do.
In part, yes. It got rid of the engine shaking, but I still had a weird idle and hesitation after like 60 mph if I hit the accelerator hard, where it wouldn’t go anywhere, the engine would rev a little but then after a few seconds it would take off. I later found the main problem to be the upstream 02 sensor, I replaced it and the check engine light instantly went away, as well as the bad idle and gas mileage has improved. I read that the most common misdiagnoses of a p0171 code is the 02 sensor, but I had all the symptoms of a bad one and once I replaced it, it solved all the aforementioned problems exceptthe hesitation when I give it gas, but I suppose I can live with it. There is a really bad kink in the fuel line after the filter that I can’t get out, I wonder if that’s what is causing it…
I disagree. You couldn’t be more wrong about a P0171 being caused by a bad O2 sensor, in fact that’s hardly ever the case. You need to spend some time to diagnose something like this, you can’t just shoot from the hip and hope you hit the target. When you get a lean code like that it could mean that you have a vacuum leak OR a fuel delivery problem and since you have a bad kink in a fuel line this sends up red flags about fuel starvation which could not only cause that code but also the symptoms you describe. You can verify the problem simply by looking at the fuel trim numbers and the O2 readings during a live data readout. Check the fuel pressure, a drop of only 3psi can cause all kinds of problems on some makes. With a kinked fuel line you also have to be aware of volume, you can have the proper pressure but not enough volume which would show up at higher RPM’s or when the engine is under load. Also a quick check for vacuum leaks as well as addressing the kink in the fuel line. Don’t make assumptions, it gets expensive and is often ineffective.
Old thread, but I recently had this issue and wanted to share, since it’s also a cause of bog. My 2011 CRV was bogging when hot and pulling away from a standstill. It was hesitating on first acceleration. I ended up replacing exhaust components / cats, but that didn’t fix it. Cleaned throttle body, that didn’t work. The issue was actually the cold air intake I had installed a few years prior. The issue didn’t arise, though, until after I did a valve adjustment and opened up the intake valves slightly, which increased intake air flow into the engine even more. Further, I did the valve adjustment in the winter and the issue didn’t come up until it was hot in the summer, so that further perplexed me, but it all made sense in the end. With a cold air intake (CAI), your engine is running too lean. Despite the marketing BS, your car isn’t going to run better with a CAI, UNLESS you get it tuned in / you get a professional (assuming you don’t have the skill) to re-flash your PCM to handle the new air flow. They have to re-program the MAP sensor inputs. I have another car, honda accord, that I put a CAI in and it never really ran better, until I took it to Xenocron tuning solutions, outside NYC, and they flashed the PCM with Ktuner software. After that, it ran so much better / faster. In the case of my CRV though, Ktuner didn’t offer re-flash compatibility, so the solution was to remove the CAI.
Anyway back to the problem with the CRV. What happens is, when your engine is running lean (too much air) it’s also running hotter than normal. Too lean = too hot. That issue gets exacerbated by it being hot outside. Throw in factors like sitting idle with the A/C cranked, waiting to pull out into traffic, and you’re really heating up the cylinders. When your engine is running that hot, you start to get engine knock. Your knock sensor will sense this and the ECU will retard the timing to prevent pre-ignition and knock. Essentially, the ECU causes the engine to slow / hesitate for self protection (prevent knock). In my CRV, the ECU was so good at this it never threw a code / CEL for knock or anything, so I couldn’t tell what was happening at the time. I eventually took it to the honda stealership and they recommended putting the stock intake in. I doubtful, since the CAI wasn’t an issue for the first few years after install, but they were right. So what I learned was, don’t put a CAI on your car, unless you plan on getting it dyno tuned in. Further, I wouldn’t even put a high-flow air filter in. I recommend keeping it all stock, if you aren’t getting it tuned.
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