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[quote=”cap269″ post=137530]It could be the shift solenoids, but before going there, check that the linkage cable hasn’t loosened up at the trans, and inspect the motor mounts and make sure they are good.[/quote]
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=137553]That it takes a bit of time to shift is rather normal. That it clunks is likely one of the mounts. Of course, that being Murphy’s law, will be the one that is on the crossmember side, hidden underneath the body and requiring to drop crossmember down to get to it.
Not sure about trying to rock power train by hand, but a long pry bar or equivalent, jammed bvetween engine and firewall, may rock it well enough for clunk to show.[/quote]
Having spent most of the available free time over the weekend trying to pinpoint the culprit of the noise/clunk, I can wholeheartedly say it is not the mounts. From my observations no looseness felt in either of the four. In addition neither show any cracks or excessive play when having someone shift through the gears inside while I watch the engine movement.[quote=”Fopeano” post=137544]When I’m doing a used vehicle checkover on a car with any kind of jerky transmission issues, I always check the motor mounts. With it in park and the hood open, stand at the front and grab the radiator support bar and start rocking the car back and forth so it “bounces” back and forth against the parking mechanism. The engine will rock back and forth in the bay and tug/push on all the engine mounts, and any abnormal movement can be seen. I can’t really explain how much movement is abnormal, but it should look pretty well restrained. If it doesn’t, start looking a the individual engine mounts flexing. You can only see the driver’s side and front easily on that car, the passenger side can be seen if you remove the intake.
Other than that, it may be a trans problem. I bought my 99 Accord with a BAXA with numerous points of failure. One of the things I did before rebuilding it was to remove the lockup solenoid set that is right next to the tranny cooler pipes on top. It has a set of filter screens built into the o-ring seals that were clogged. Cleaning them reduced a lot of delayed engagement problems and overall drastically changed the trans behavior. The amount of debris in the screens allowed me to confirm that there was enough floating around inside that it was going to need to come apart for sure. When I got it apart, it was in worse shape then I’d imagined, but that’s a whole other story that hopefully you’ll be spared from experiencing..[/quote]
While the mounts checked out to be in ok shape from my tests, I shall have a look at the filter screens for the lockup solenoid and see if cleaning provides any results. The car came originally with a maxa which was changed to a mcja roughly ~2 years ago after the maxa experienced the dreaded gear flareup out of the blue moon during a rather long vacation trip. The mcja was used (the usual so claimed 50-75km from jdm import shops). Upon installation 2 years ago the fluid on the mcja was fully drained and fresh atfdw1 fluid was then drain n filled about 6 times to start off with as much fresh clean atfdw1 in there as was possible. The 2nd and 3rd clutch pressure switches were changed with new and as i recall we actually took off the solenoid set by the cooler lines and that under the battery tray along with the 2 singles by the cooler lines to change the gaskets/orings for the sake of it. It’s been absolutely perfect and still is aside this noise/clunk recently. I have access to both alldata and the shop service manual for the car but unfortunately neither of provide much insight on the actual solenoid effects on shifting. It’s got me wondering/guessing if one or a set would be responsible for activating the reverse gear when coming of the forward drive gear as thats the only time/way such noise/clunk occurs.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=40413]If that’s the case I would then check the auto trans to see if the TCC is working properly. If it’s not going into lock up then your mileage will suffer.[/quote]
From my limited knowledge I have done the following checks…
-Tranny shift gears (1-4) if easy on the throttle at about 2-2.2k rpm
-Once in 4th(final gear) when pressing on the gas pedal the RPMs do not jump up non relative to the speed of the car which i believe hence means the TC is locked up.
I’ve only had the TC not lock up once when under WOT after reaching 80km/h in a snow/icy condition in which casing i believe tire slip and non traction was the cause of the issueA part of me feels as if its a sensor issue…if only i just knew/could figure out which sensor. Reason for such is as i’ve noticed that when the car sits at idle 700rpm…o2 graph doesn’t show constant oscillation and it’ll at times hang on rich or lean. However if i press on the gas pedal lightly and bring up the rpms to even 720 or 750 the o2 starts moving up down perfectly.
PS> My apologies on the late reply Eric. Due to personal family reasons just been unable to jump on here.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=40413]If that’s the case I would then check the auto trans to see if the TCC is working properly. If it’s not going into lock up then your mileage will suffer.[/quote]
From my limited knowledge I have done the following checks…
-Tranny shift gears (1-4) if easy on the throttle at about 2-2.2k rpm
-Once in 4th(final gear) when pressing on the gas pedal the RPMs do not jump up non relative to the speed of the car which i believe hence means the TC is locked up.
I’ve only had the TC not lock up once when under WOT after reaching 80km/h in a snow/icy condition in which casing i believe tire slip and non traction was the cause of the issueA part of me feels as if its a sensor issue…if only i just knew/could figure out which sensor. Reason for such is as i’ve noticed that when the car sits at idle 700rpm…o2 graph doesn’t show constant oscillation and it’ll at times hang on rich or lean. However if i press on the gas pedal lightly and bring up the rpms to even 720 or 750 the o2 starts moving up down perfectly.
PS> My apologies on the late reply Eric. Due to personal family reasons just been unable to jump on here.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=39554]Yea I am saying that tires can account for that much of a difference especially if you can’t find an engine performance issue or transmission problem. Rolling resistance is everything when it comes to fuel milage. To be honest you might benefit from some better tires. Honda’s are VERY picky about the tires you run on them, I’ve seen it more times than I can count, poor wear, crappy handling, and fuel milage all suffer with the wrong tires. Tires really do make the car. I was glad to read that you had already considered the brakes as a possible contributor well done.[/quote]
As mentioned a few posts above i partake in a local car club. With that in mind both me and 3 other individuals with 98,99,00 accords(same engine, all kept up with the same maintenance) all use the same combination of tires for summer/winter. They can still manage to get the 10L/100km however…i can’t.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=39554]Yea I am saying that tires can account for that much of a difference especially if you can’t find an engine performance issue or transmission problem. Rolling resistance is everything when it comes to fuel milage. To be honest you might benefit from some better tires. Honda’s are VERY picky about the tires you run on them, I’ve seen it more times than I can count, poor wear, crappy handling, and fuel milage all suffer with the wrong tires. Tires really do make the car. I was glad to read that you had already considered the brakes as a possible contributor well done.[/quote]
As mentioned a few posts above i partake in a local car club. With that in mind both me and 3 other individuals with 98,99,00 accords(same engine, all kept up with the same maintenance) all use the same combination of tires for summer/winter. They can still manage to get the 10L/100km however…i can’t.
In the non-winter season i use 205-50-17 Falken Ziex ZE-912 on 17″ Enkei EV5. During the winter i use 195-65-15 on General Altimax Arctics on steelies.
That being said are we really saying that rolling resistance on a properly inflated tire can account for a 4-6MPG drop???
The car is always ran on D4. Its driven in a means where it changes gears at about 2-3000rpm and no more. It has never hung on a gear and never over revved or slipped a gear no matter if driven the usual granny style or pushed.
I’ve lived in my area and done the same trip/roads ever since i bought the car. Calipers have been checked more than once and show no issues. The temp on the front rotors has been checked and is roughly the same after a 1hr drive showing both calipers are working about the same, the same applies for the rear drums. Drums spin about 1.5-2 revolutions prior to stopping when spun by hand with the wheel off.
In the non-winter season i use 205-50-17 Falken Ziex ZE-912 on 17″ Enkei EV5. During the winter i use 195-65-15 on General Altimax Arctics on steelies.
That being said are we really saying that rolling resistance on a properly inflated tire can account for a 4-6MPG drop???
The car is always ran on D4. Its driven in a means where it changes gears at about 2-3000rpm and no more. It has never hung on a gear and never over revved or slipped a gear no matter if driven the usual granny style or pushed.
I’ve lived in my area and done the same trip/roads ever since i bought the car. Calipers have been checked more than once and show no issues. The temp on the front rotors has been checked and is roughly the same after a 1hr drive showing both calipers are working about the same, the same applies for the rear drums. Drums spin about 1.5-2 revolutions prior to stopping when spun by hand with the wheel off.
Have you confirmed that both fans do come on when the car reaches about 96C? I know you said you’ve replaced them but replaced doesn’t always mean much. With the car running turn on the A/C and turn the fan dial to on. Both fans should be spinning…if theyre not the fans are faulty.
Have you checked the radiator pressure cap? Does it still function and has all of its sealing o-rings inside. If you squeeze it with your thumb does the valve move in/out?
Park the car on an incline with the front somewhat higher than the rear. Once cold open the radiator cap and add coolant until you see a steady stream coming out of the bleeder screw. Once this happens close the bleeder screw. With the radiator cap off and now radiator fully topped up, turn the car on and run it at a fast idle(1500-2000rpm) with the temp gauge all the way to hot and fan off. If you start seeing the fluid level go down as some small bubbles appear top it up. Make sure you always keep it topped up to the max. This is where a spill free funnel helps as you can easily overfill the funnel and let it take in what it needs. As the car is running give squeezes to both upper/lower rad hoses. When you squeeze you’ll either see bubbles or fluid level will just increase. Don’t worry if some spills over the radiator and overflows…you can easily clean it with some water. Let the car run with the radiator cap off and by topping up the radiator continuously until both fans turn on (should take about 10 minutes). Once both fans turn on and no more bubbles appear place the radiator cap on the radiator and make sure your overflow bottle is filled up to the correct level/line.
If the fans do not come on, you’ve got an issue with the fan switch possibly.
Have you confirmed that both fans do come on when the car reaches about 96C? I know you said you’ve replaced them but replaced doesn’t always mean much. With the car running turn on the A/C and turn the fan dial to on. Both fans should be spinning…if theyre not the fans are faulty.
Have you checked the radiator pressure cap? Does it still function and has all of its sealing o-rings inside. If you squeeze it with your thumb does the valve move in/out?
Park the car on an incline with the front somewhat higher than the rear. Once cold open the radiator cap and add coolant until you see a steady stream coming out of the bleeder screw. Once this happens close the bleeder screw. With the radiator cap off and now radiator fully topped up, turn the car on and run it at a fast idle(1500-2000rpm) with the temp gauge all the way to hot and fan off. If you start seeing the fluid level go down as some small bubbles appear top it up. Make sure you always keep it topped up to the max. This is where a spill free funnel helps as you can easily overfill the funnel and let it take in what it needs. As the car is running give squeezes to both upper/lower rad hoses. When you squeeze you’ll either see bubbles or fluid level will just increase. Don’t worry if some spills over the radiator and overflows…you can easily clean it with some water. Let the car run with the radiator cap off and by topping up the radiator continuously until both fans turn on (should take about 10 minutes). Once both fans turn on and no more bubbles appear place the radiator cap on the radiator and make sure your overflow bottle is filled up to the correct level/line.
If the fans do not come on, you’ve got an issue with the fan switch possibly.
Personally i’d use the oem honda atf…atf-dw1.
Taking the passenger axle seal out will mean you should drain the atf prior or you will have it all over yourself.As for the seal…
After taking the axle out attempt to pull the seal using your finger. If that will not work use a small pick. Just make sure to not grind/scratch the seal housing. With the old seal out inspect the seal housing and and clean it using a clean cloth if it is dirty. I wouldn’t spray brake cleaner at it simply as some may go inside the transmission. Usually you do not need to lube the axle seals when going in but using just a small amount of lube never hurt. Use some atf from what you drained to lube the outside. Place the seal in and use a socket the same size as the seal or a pvc pipe cutout the same size as the seal to tap the seal in place. I’d suggest using a rubber hammer and tapping the seal evenly on all sides. Not one side fully and then the other…work it even all around.
Place the seal in as far as the body of the seal is flush the the tranny casing. NOT when the outer protruding lip of the seal is flush, and not as far in as you can get it.Lastly, use an OEM honda seal…ive seen/heard bad stories with aftermarket seals not being the correct size.
Personally i’d use the oem honda atf…atf-dw1.
Taking the passenger axle seal out will mean you should drain the atf prior or you will have it all over yourself.As for the seal…
After taking the axle out attempt to pull the seal using your finger. If that will not work use a small pick. Just make sure to not grind/scratch the seal housing. With the old seal out inspect the seal housing and and clean it using a clean cloth if it is dirty. I wouldn’t spray brake cleaner at it simply as some may go inside the transmission. Usually you do not need to lube the axle seals when going in but using just a small amount of lube never hurt. Use some atf from what you drained to lube the outside. Place the seal in and use a socket the same size as the seal or a pvc pipe cutout the same size as the seal to tap the seal in place. I’d suggest using a rubber hammer and tapping the seal evenly on all sides. Not one side fully and then the other…work it even all around.
Place the seal in as far as the body of the seal is flush the the tranny casing. NOT when the outer protruding lip of the seal is flush, and not as far in as you can get it.Lastly, use an OEM honda seal…ive seen/heard bad stories with aftermarket seals not being the correct size.
[quote=”college man” post=38342]I was hoping the short fuel trim would go to positive
as it did when the injector was unplugged.If the stft
would have stayed negative.That would indicate a leaky
injector.If all were the same as you stated.then I don’t
see a leaky injector.did you check the egr?[/quote]I took off the egr valve and tested it with a vacuum pump. Replaced its gasket even though it showed no issues but why not.
Ended up cleaning the valve off with some brake cleaner and did a little picking inside the egr port with a shopvac and a tiny metal wire. The passageway was NOT clogged in any way but there was crud to scrape off nonetheless.[quote=”college man” post=38342]I was hoping the short fuel trim would go to positive
as it did when the injector was unplugged.If the stft
would have stayed negative.That would indicate a leaky
injector.If all were the same as you stated.then I don’t
see a leaky injector.did you check the egr?[/quote]I took off the egr valve and tested it with a vacuum pump. Replaced its gasket even though it showed no issues but why not.
Ended up cleaning the valve off with some brake cleaner and did a little picking inside the egr port with a shopvac and a tiny metal wire. The passageway was NOT clogged in any way but there was crud to scrape off nonetheless.What fuel pump did the mechanic install? brand?
Did you check that black ground wire to make sure its snug down..for the fuelpump behind/under the back seats?Battery voltage should be
@ resting/car off
12.68v . . 100%
12.45v . . 75%
12.24v . . 50%
12.06v . . 25%
11.89v . . 0%@running/car on the voltage should be between 13.5v to 14.5v. If its less then 13.5v then your alternator isnt working up to par.
As for the fuel pump, with my limited knowledge…it will either run or not. You can check fuel pressure at the fuel rail…
Symptoms of it failing pump could be any of stalling when hot, screeching sounds, misfires at highway speeds, hesitant or sluggish acceleration, low power on uphills.What fuel pump did the mechanic install? brand?
Did you check that black ground wire to make sure its snug down..for the fuelpump behind/under the back seats?Battery voltage should be
@ resting/car off
12.68v . . 100%
12.45v . . 75%
12.24v . . 50%
12.06v . . 25%
11.89v . . 0%@running/car on the voltage should be between 13.5v to 14.5v. If its less then 13.5v then your alternator isnt working up to par.
As for the fuel pump, with my limited knowledge…it will either run or not. You can check fuel pressure at the fuel rail…
Symptoms of it failing pump could be any of stalling when hot, screeching sounds, misfires at highway speeds, hesitant or sluggish acceleration, low power on uphills.