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[quote=”Evil-i” post=169337][quote=”bigbird1971″ post=169286]could be inner cv joint (s) are worn and need replaced.[/quote]
As far as I know, these are rear-wheel drive.
I would check wheel balancing and engine/transmission mounts to start with.[/quote]
definitely check what Evil-I said first, however the 325i has independent rear setup with cv joints.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0214/BMW_0214_SUSAXL_pg1.htm#item0could be inner cv joint (s) are worn and need replaced.
for more info you can go to a few forums that are dedicated to that engine setup:
http://www.regalgs.org/
http://www.3800performance.com/
http://www.clubgp.com/that’s way out of line. I know the center engine mount is a pain in the butt, however there is no way that will take over 11 hours to replace. The transmission mount should be able to be done in 2 hours or less. That shop is nuts!
Def replace the radiator. The tank looks to be cracked. Not uncommon near the the hot neck.
I just changed one of my axle shafts on my 93 Impreza manual. It was making a popping, clicking noise. I was afraid it was an issue with the front differential. I was relieved that it ended up being the inner cv joint on the passenger side. My CV axle looked good, however it was the original factory unit and had 185,000 miles on it and 23 years old. Not saying for sure that it is your cv axle, but you certainly could check the play in the joint.
He found the leak! Old oil filter gasket didn’t get removed.
I’m 95% sure its your starter contacts. They are replaceable. I did this repair on my daughter’s 96 Camry a couple of years ago. Some info here:
http://www.yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
and here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/102-1st-2nd-generation-1983-1986-1987-1991/354129-how-replace-starter-motor-solenoid-contacts-intermittent-starting-problem.htmlgreat to hear.
Just a note on the engine mounts. The two mounts, top and bottom that are mounted in aluminum housings are just torque struts, the main mount is located in the frame. When the main middle mount fails, the torque struts fail soon afterward as they aren’t designed to hold the weight of the engine. If you replace the mounts, replace all 3. Beware the middle mount is a challenge to replace.
Another idea on where the coolant/water is going, is into the combustion chamber. If you have steam coming from the exhaust, there’s a good chance that you have a bad head gasket. That would account for the bubbles in the coolant and coolant loss. Best of luck.
November 3, 2015 at 8:14 pm in reply to: ’05 Accord rear left rim is very hot after drive / burning smell #843495sounds like your left rear caliper is sticking, causing friction while you drive. It could be either the piston or more likely the slide pins are stuck. When you changed the pads, did you re-grease the slide pins?
Thanks for the update. Best wishes on years of trouble free motoring.
Air could be the culprit. I changed the water pump/ and timing belt on my daughter’s Neon this past weekend. Upon refilling the cooling system and running the car, It took about 15 minutes with the pressure cap off for the bubbles to stop appearing from the engine side of the radiator hose.
I bought a spring compressor set a few years back because I had rented them many times. I’ve used MY set 3 times already. Well worth the money, money is made back before first use is complete.
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