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Will do on the link, thanks. Seat power is positive straight to the battery with a 30amp inline fuse. I put ground to the seat bolt.
Will do on the link, thanks. Seat power is positive straight to the battery with a 30amp inline fuse. I put ground to the seat bolt.
Still going good. Would a direct link to the battery suck battery power with the seat not being adjusted? Just seems like I am losing some battery power somewhere and that’s the only thing I’ve changed. If not, maybe I need to test the alternator. Because after a drive it a few days, it takes four hours on the trickle charger to bring it back. The battery is new. Other car, takes 25 minutes to top off even after sitting a couple days.
Still going good. Would a direct link to the battery suck battery power with the seat not being adjusted? Just seems like I am losing some battery power somewhere and that’s the only thing I’ve changed. If not, maybe I need to test the alternator. Because after a drive it a few days, it takes four hours on the trickle charger to bring it back. The battery is new. Other car, takes 25 minutes to top off even after sitting a couple days.
Yes, I do have a working power seat now. And it’s a whole lot better than what I had before. Thanks again!
Yes, I do have a working power seat now. And it’s a whole lot better than what I had before. Thanks again!
You weren’t kidding about it being a PITA. I took the console out and the last I followed the wire that supposedly ties in at the drivers side power window circuit, it ran over the trans tunnel and was headed forward on the other side of the trans tunnel toward the front of the car. No way was I going to pull the passengers seat and the carpet on that side. I said screw it and ran my own harness to the battery, ground at the seat bolt. I put a 30amp inline fuse in the power line. Took me awhile, console, drivers side carpet, there was a rubber plug in the firewall and I went along the edge of the console zip tied to another cable then through a small hole I drilled in the plug. Used solar seal 900 to seal the hole. The only good news is I got to clean the console parts before I put them back together, nasty. And there were about 25 pens in the console. I had no idea. And a pencil under the console on top of the trans tunnel.
You weren’t kidding about it being a PITA. I took the console out and the last I followed the wire that supposedly ties in at the drivers side power window circuit, it ran over the trans tunnel and was headed forward on the other side of the trans tunnel toward the front of the car. No way was I going to pull the passengers seat and the carpet on that side. I said screw it and ran my own harness to the battery, ground at the seat bolt. I put a 30amp inline fuse in the power line. Took me awhile, console, drivers side carpet, there was a rubber plug in the firewall and I went along the edge of the console zip tied to another cable then through a small hole I drilled in the plug. Used solar seal 900 to seal the hole. The only good news is I got to clean the console parts before I put them back together, nasty. And there were about 25 pens in the console. I had no idea. And a pencil under the console on top of the trans tunnel.
Honda needs front sway bar bushings. Got the moog kit because it’s cheaper. Doing the frame bushings too. They are 20 years old, it’s time.
Honda needs front sway bar bushings. Got the moog kit because it’s cheaper. Doing the frame bushings too. They are 20 years old, it’s time.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98305]Does this mean you have working seats now?[/quote]
Yes and no. The passengers side had a broken track so I had to swap my track out, no problem it’s in. Power didn’t work to the factory harness on the drivers side so I hooked up my makeshift harness, attached it to the battery out the door and set the seat where i wanted and bolted it down. I still need to trace the harness and see why there is no power. I just don’t have time for a few days. If I can’t find it easily, I’m going to run my own to the battery with an inline 30 amp fuse. I know exactly where to put it through the firewall and the harness is made. So it shouldn’t take long and at least the motors on the seat work.
In other news, I did the passengers side tie rods and measured the total length of the old tie rods and at the alignment today, the drivers side was off slightly more than the passengers side. Toe was only off .05 degrees out of spec. That’s really close for just measuring and using whiteout. I had to replace the inner and outer so counting turns was completely out. Plus the new ones were Moog and the old ones OEM, made differently.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98305]Does this mean you have working seats now?[/quote]
Yes and no. The passengers side had a broken track so I had to swap my track out, no problem it’s in. Power didn’t work to the factory harness on the drivers side so I hooked up my makeshift harness, attached it to the battery out the door and set the seat where i wanted and bolted it down. I still need to trace the harness and see why there is no power. I just don’t have time for a few days. If I can’t find it easily, I’m going to run my own to the battery with an inline 30 amp fuse. I know exactly where to put it through the firewall and the harness is made. So it shouldn’t take long and at least the motors on the seat work.
In other news, I did the passengers side tie rods and measured the total length of the old tie rods and at the alignment today, the drivers side was off slightly more than the passengers side. Toe was only off .05 degrees out of spec. That’s really close for just measuring and using whiteout. I had to replace the inner and outer so counting turns was completely out. Plus the new ones were Moog and the old ones OEM, made differently.
Oh man, I finally had time to pull the seats again. Someone told me that black plug was seat heater. BS, it’s a power seat cable. I don’t know whether to be happy or annoyed, I paid $10 for the pig tail with shipping and made my own harness and the car already has a power seat harness. LOL. I guess it’s easier than wiring up my own. I had sent the guy a picture of the harness under the seat and I guess he didn’t know what it was so he made something up. 2000-2001 legacy, black plug under the seat white wire green stripe power seat plug.
Oh man, I finally had time to pull the seats again. Someone told me that black plug was seat heater. BS, it’s a power seat cable. I don’t know whether to be happy or annoyed, I paid $10 for the pig tail with shipping and made my own harness and the car already has a power seat harness. LOL. I guess it’s easier than wiring up my own. I had sent the guy a picture of the harness under the seat and I guess he didn’t know what it was so he made something up. 2000-2001 legacy, black plug under the seat white wire green stripe power seat plug.
Thought I already replied but it’s not here. I made the wiring harness today and found where to tap in. I hope to finish everything Saturday or Monday. I don’t have time before then to do anything else but all I need to do is remove the seats, pull back the carpet on the drivers side and hook up the harness then install the seats.
The wire I need to tap is right under the dash. It helped that it is the same color as the wiring on the seat plug pigtail (white wire, green stripe). Made me feel better that what I was told about the cars with electric seats taping in at the power window circuit was correct. There are no other white wires with green stripes anywhere under the dash in that area.