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Inspect Ignition timing. The distributor should have a device that advances timing under heavy centrifugal force (High RPMs) and if it isn’t doing it’s job correctly, you may need a new distributor. If possible, hook up a timing light and turn the throttle by hand to see if timing moves too far off at rpm.
I haven’t seen or driven the car so I can’t give a definite answer, but I had a civic that would do the same thing, except it would only actually jump out of 3rd gear. If you engine brake and then slam the throttle and the shifter moves more than an inch, I’d check those mounts.
If it is a dealer and not independent, the shop will procure special tools. Seeing that you work on Mazda, you know about the special timing tools needed for L series engines. Every dealer I have been at has supplied those. We actually have a full cabinet of special tools, and if the right ones aren’t in it, Mazda could yank our franchise.
What he says about getting recalls down is true. We had an absolute famine last week and the recalls that came in were just about the only thing keeping us afloat. The company I work for (Take a wild guess) has recalls that usually pay more than the time it takes to do them, if and only if, you have done them around 10 times before. We have an open recall right now that pays 1.3 and takes .2 if you know what you’re doing.
the L3T engines are notorious for carbon buildup on intake valves due to direct injection fuel delivery. Find somewhere with either BG or Terraclean fuel service products and have it run through the intake system, then go drive the crap out of the car. If this doesn’t fix it, then the injectors are also known to get carbon “Caps” built up on the tips making the fuel scatter wrong. Lot’s of problems with those cx-7’s.
Technician at a Mazda Dealer here. As far as I have seen, Aftermarket Warranty companies are great. They are pretty much the only way to get jobs over $1,000 covered since the average customer refuses. We usually get jobs such as transmissions and engines covered by a warranty company more than 3 times a month, and they pay full customer pay price every time. The only downside I have seen is every time they send out and adjuster and we have to hold their hand through the inspection and explain why the part needs replaced. My positive outlook on aftermarket warranty could also be contributed to the RX-8’s high engine failure rate meaning quite a few opportunities to get 6500 out of them.
I’m a Mazda Certified technician working at a dealership near Charlotte. The oil in your 2015 Mazda 3 should be changed every 5,000 miles or 4 months along with the oil filter. Replace with Full Synthetic 0w-20 oil, 4.5 quarts. Going 10,000 miles without an oil change is dangerously close to voiding your warranty.
I hear you on that. Here at my Mazda dealership, RX-8 Season has just started (Cold weather makes rotary engine issues far more apparent) and I’m putting in 60 hours a week. Thank god I’m still 19 and can deal with the intensity. I will say 60 hours a week flagging 60 hours beats the hell out of 40 hours a week flagging 20 though. August was rough.
Unfortunately I don’t think there’s much I can do for you then :(. You could take it to a shop and pay them to diagnose it, but if it was my car…..
I would drive with the headlights on 24/7 🙂
Do you have access to a scan tool that can pull up PIDS?
Any codes? Check mode 6 data for misfire counts? Mileage on engine?
If you’re set on replacing it regardless of need or not (at that mileage I absolutely agree it should be done though) then just go ahead and replace. It cant hurt anything to replace it unless you’re the kind of mechanic that hurts things by trying to replace them 🙂
Have fun
Before you go tearing apart the engine I would take off a valve cover and look for signature marks from timing chain rubbing :). Just to possibly save you some time.
For some of you having issues with these:
1. If there is an idle adjustment screw on it, don’t ever touch it. Just don’t. Unless you like throwing money at the dealership to reset everything for you.
2. Sensors and actuators like IAC, TPS, MAF, and O2 should be replaced with an exact OEM part. Not the part that AutoZone tells you is an OEM replacement.If you have access to a scan tool that can pull up PIDS then look at your long term fuel trim and see what’s going on. Also, any generic scan tool can pull up Mode 6 data where you can find misfire counts for each cylinder. Hope this helps.
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