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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116496]Yes it did happen from time to time but not frequently. That said, the most common cause of those failures is using transmission fluid other than Honda. That said, you might try putting GM synchromesh fluid in there to see if it helps the noise. I’ve done this myself and was surprised at how well it worked.
Outside of that replacing the bearing is not that difficult. Yes, it does require a clean work area and some organizational skills, but manual transmissions aren’t that difficult to service compared to automatics. You will need a bearing separator and possibly a press to change out the bearing though.
More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks for your reply Eric.I had replaced the fluid when the car was purchased in 2007 with genuine Honda mtf.
Should I still try your suggestion?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116496]Yes it did happen from time to time but not frequently. That said, the most common cause of those failures is using transmission fluid other than Honda. That said, you might try putting GM synchromesh fluid in there to see if it helps the noise. I’ve done this myself and was surprised at how well it worked.
Outside of that replacing the bearing is not that difficult. Yes, it does require a clean work area and some organizational skills, but manual transmissions aren’t that difficult to service compared to automatics. You will need a bearing separator and possibly a press to change out the bearing though.
More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks for your reply Eric.I had replaced the fluid when the car was purchased in 2007 with genuine Honda mtf.
Should I still try your suggestion?
I noticed this year doesn’t have a service port, where should I attach smoke?
I noticed this year doesn’t have a service port, where should I attach smoke?
Dead blow hammers are good for transferring a good whack without causing much marring on what you’re striking.
Dead blow hammers are good for transferring a good whack without causing much marring on what you’re striking.
Eric, I already replaced the bypass valve solenoid and the two-way valve as suggested by others on a civic forum, apparently these two were usual suspects for the code. However that didn’t cure the problem.
I had a shop smoke test the system while closing the vent solenoid and no smoke leaked out. During the test he says he could smell gas coming from the rear of the car but at the time the mechanic didn’t know he could get to the pump/sending unit access panels from under the seat. He was under impression the tank would need to be dropped and wanted to charge extra so I declined.
Eric, I already replaced the bypass valve solenoid and the two-way valve as suggested by others on a civic forum, apparently these two were usual suspects for the code. However that didn’t cure the problem.
I had a shop smoke test the system while closing the vent solenoid and no smoke leaked out. During the test he says he could smell gas coming from the rear of the car but at the time the mechanic didn’t know he could get to the pump/sending unit access panels from under the seat. He was under impression the tank would need to be dropped and wanted to charge extra so I declined.
[quote=”Brock” post=116223]Thanks for the suggestion. I will try it. Though it doesn’t seem to be the radio because when I disconnect the radio, the clock light still comes on arbitrarily when the car is turned off.[/quote]
Then I’d check the wires at the ignition.[quote=”Brock” post=116223]Thanks for the suggestion. I will try it. Though it doesn’t seem to be the radio because when I disconnect the radio, the clock light still comes on arbitrarily when the car is turned off.[/quote]
Then I’d check the wires at the ignition.I would definitely try from up top without dropping the tank.
Do you think some good duct tape or any other kind might even be good enough? Lol.
Really just looking for a quick safe band-aid fix if one or both of those gaskets are bad. I don’t need to pass emissions anymore due to the age of my car, I just hate seeing that check engine light.
I would definitely try from up top without dropping the tank.
Do you think some good duct tape or any other kind might even be good enough? Lol.
Really just looking for a quick safe band-aid fix if one or both of those gaskets are bad. I don’t need to pass emissions anymore due to the age of my car, I just hate seeing that check engine light.
[quote=”tomatofarmer1″ post=116197]I personally would feel safer blowing smoke orally into these lines…less chance of an unwanted spark… You didn’t really respond to ToyotaKarl…why would you want to seal the area pictured if you didn’t smell raw gas, or see smoke leaking through this area? You might be borrowing trouble and unintentionally create an issue trying to replaced the gasket(s). Have you been able to test your purge control valve/ vent solenoid?[/quote]
Yes I tested those and they work as they should. I asked about the seals incase I see smoke leaking through the area.Could I simply try sealing around the lips using silicone or something else IF I happen to see smoke escaping there? Due to the rust I wouldn’t feel comfortable trying to replace the actual gaskets
[quote=”tomatofarmer1″ post=116197]I personally would feel safer blowing smoke orally into these lines…less chance of an unwanted spark… You didn’t really respond to ToyotaKarl…why would you want to seal the area pictured if you didn’t smell raw gas, or see smoke leaking through this area? You might be borrowing trouble and unintentionally create an issue trying to replaced the gasket(s). Have you been able to test your purge control valve/ vent solenoid?[/quote]
Yes I tested those and they work as they should. I asked about the seals incase I see smoke leaking through the area.Could I simply try sealing around the lips using silicone or something else IF I happen to see smoke escaping there? Due to the rust I wouldn’t feel comfortable trying to replace the actual gaskets
Here’s an idea, unplug the radio and wire in a 12v light using the 12v acc supply in the harness that would normally connect to the radio. See if it randomly illuminates at the usual times the radio has been coming on.
If not, then you can presume faulty radio. If it does then you have something else going on involving the power supply to that harness.
Possible bad wiring going to the ignition switch, temp change could be causing a connection allowing power through.
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