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Topic
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I have a 2001 beetle 1.8 turbo. the oil pressure runs about 28 lbs driving,let off throtle pressure go up to 60lbs,then droups to about 15lbs. When stopped 0lbs. take off back up to about 28 lbs. This has ben like this for 6 mo. no noise no rattle no overheating. new oil pump clean screen standard idiot light plus after market manual guage. oil cooler next replacement. Any advice for other fixes to try?
Thanks Docgoodluck
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I would put a mechanical gauge on the engine and confirm these numbers via removing the oil pressure switch and screwing it in.
I made an adapter to use both aftermarket guage and the idiot light. At idle zero oil pressure.
thanks Doc
No only between 5 to 15 lbs. Comes on at 15psi on the way down goes off at 5psi. Comes on at 5psi on the way up and goes off at 15psi.
thanks Doc
VW’s use a very interesting system for reporting oil pressure problems. I’ve cross posted this one for the member over at a Beetle Forum that I do work with. Just to get the most ideas in the shortest amount of time.
I’ll let everyone know their feedback as well.
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Oil pressure that goes from 28 psi to 60 psi when coasting? An oil light that comes on at 15 psi and goes off at 5 psi? None of this makes sense.
Anyway, the engine does have oil pressure (maybe zero at times) but we don’t know.
Okay, Got a response from a gent over at newbeetle. Not that I’m taking anything away from the great members of this group, but the guys over at newbeetle? This is pretty much all they deal with, and they are also a great bunch of guys and girls.
Hey, could it be pressure relief valve: in that case, usually the pressure is too high.
VWVortex.com – New member with 2000 VW Beetle 1.8t Oil Pressure and Cooling questions post rebuild
When it comes to the oil pressure; obviously, a pressure gauge hooked up to where the oil pressure sending unit port location; is the way to check the oil pressure. From the description; that seems to be the case. If there are NO restrictions in the system and the pan has been pulled off, oil pump checked/replaced, pickup tube checked/replaced…… like he is mentioning, then… the last thing (aside from the pressure valve), would seem to be restriction in the oil cooler or some other oil galleys in the system.
Lastly, it is possible that bearing wear/failure, has brought the system down so low… that no amount of “fixing” the oil pump/system will help. Checking the cam bearings and cranks bearings, would sound like a good check as well.
As far as the beeping light; I have had a bad temp sensor/wiring, cause the oil pressure light to be activated and it had no oil pressure issues, when I hooked up the pressure gauge, that IS NOT the case here, however.
Here is a another thread; when we went through a number of trouble shooting steps with a member with low pressure problems. In this case; the member had a plastic windage tray MELT; cause the oil pressure to drop and clogged up the oil cooler, as well.
Putting it back together..Need some help!
The links to the two posts didn’t come though.
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/85194-putting-back-together-need-some-help.html
You might have to register to view the posts. Not sure about that. Your post is:
Hopefully I’m not running afoul of any rules about other forums and such, but my concern is seeing your issues resolved in a quick manner, plus any information learned about this can be used to help other members as well.
Thanks!
S-
[quote=”Tedybear315″ post=110721]Okay, Got a response from a gent over at newbeetle. Not that I’m taking anything away from the great members of this group, but the guys over at newbeetle? This is pretty much all they deal with, and they are also a great bunch of guys and girls.
Hey, could it be pressure relief valve: in that case, usually the pressure is too high.
VWVortex.com – New member with 2000 VW Beetle 1.8t Oil Pressure and Cooling questions post rebuild
When it comes to the oil pressure; obviously, a pressure gauge hooked up to where the oil pressure sending unit port location; is the way to check the oil pressure. From the description; that seems to be the case. If there are NO restrictions in the system and the pan has been pulled off, oil pump checked/replaced, pickup tube checked/replaced…… like he is mentioning, then… the last thing (aside from the pressure valve), would seem to be restriction in the oil cooler or some other oil galleys in the system.
Lastly, it is possible that bearing wear/failure, has brought the system down so low… that no amount of “fixing” the oil pump/system will help. Checking the cam bearings and cranks bearings, would sound like a good check as well.
As far as the beeping light; I have had a bad temp sensor/wiring, cause the oil pressure light to be activated and it had no oil pressure issues, when I hooked up the pressure gauge, that IS NOT the case here, however.
Here is a another thread; when we went through a number of trouble shooting steps with a member with low pressure problems. In this case; the member had a plastic windage tray MELT; cause the oil pressure to drop and clogged up the oil cooler, as well.
Putting it back together..Need some help!
The links to the two posts didn’t come though.
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/85194-putting-back-together-need-some-help.html
You might have to register to view the posts. Not sure about that. Your post is:
Hopefully I’m not running afoul of any rules about other forums and such, but my concern is seeing your issues resolved in a quick manner, plus any information learned about this can be used to help other members as well.
Thanks!
S-[/quote]
Posting links to other forums is NP. Just so long as it’s not direct advertisement. If it helps someone, we’re all for it.
That said, since you have 2 things hooked up, I’d recommend removing them and checking the pressure with a manual gauge.
If you do find an oil psi problem, first make sure you’re using the correct viscosity oil. If not, this could be the cause. Outside of that, you may be looking at an issue with the engine.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Thanks Eric. Just wanted to ensure I was not overstepping my place. 🙂
I know these cars have some really really weird methods for triggering the low oil pressure light-one odd sensor reading and it triggers both the oil light and the cooling light?
The old rule of thumb used to be 10PSI oil pressure for every 1k rpm. (at least back in my college days when I was trained) But these newer cars? Always amaze me and confuse me at the same time.
I’d also (as you did) suggest removing the ‘plumbing’ for both the light and the installed gauge and put in a good quality oil pressure gauge. I can grab some specs out of the shop manual for the RPM and expected oil pressure range. I would also fully expect with the sensor for the oil pressure for the car’s computer not installed? It should trigger the light once it realizes it’s got totally nothing to read.
These engines also require VW spec oil. We’re using 0w40 Mobil 1 in our Beetle. It seems to be okay to use 5w30 or even a slightly heavier weight (depending on your area and outside temps) But it has to be full synthetic. Dealer recommended is Castrol Edge synthetic, but Mobil 1 also meets the specs.
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I have an excellent aftermarket manual guage installed, along with the sending unit for the factory light. I installed this with a tee fitting in case the missing sending unit messed with the computer. I have been a mechanic for 43 years and have never seen this type problem before. It has me stumped. My car has had 20W50 full syn. oil since it was new. this problem just started with no warning. This engine definitely has no oil pressure at idle and makes no noise.
Thanks Doc
[quote=”Docgoodluck” post=110793]I have an excellent aftermarket manual guage installed, along with the sending unit for the factory light. I installed this with a tee fitting in case the missing sending unit messed with the computer. I have been a mechanic for 43 years and have never seen this type problem before. It has me stumped. My car has had 20W50 full syn. oil since it was new. this problem just started with no warning. This engine definitely has no oil pressure at idle and makes no noise.
Thanks Doc[/quote]
:unsure:
Pretty sure the normal oil is 0w40 full syn (Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge, both VW spec approved–this is critical as these engines are very prone to sludge buildup) or maybe 10w40 in very hot climates. 20w50? It’s just my opinion, but that oil is very thick and I’m not sure if it would be able to flow into the extremely tight clearances. (I’m still learning about these engines myself–so I could be incorrect) Is 20w50 what the dealership recommended?, and which area are you from in regards to how hot your average day/night temps are?
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Yes this oil was recomended by the dealer per turbo, sounds to heavy to me also, but 120000 miles with no problem. I just changed the oil cooler today, still same problem. Flushing the oil system is the next step,but this really should not effect the pressure reading. No noise from still doesn’t make since to me. We have been driving the car this way for over six months. Still runs great and hasn’t locked up. Has me puzzled for sure.
Thanks Doc
Which area is the dealership located in? Most of the guys I know with that engine state that 0w40 Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge 5w40.
Running a 20w50 is pretty thick and with these engines having such tiny clearances for bearings, you need a thin oil for the start off (the 0 or 5w part.) and then the protection of the thicker weight when it’s at temp and hot.
There’s also been reported issues of plastic pieces melting and causing obstructions. That might be the case with yours. The oil pressure is doing some really oddball things, maybe something is blocking the relief valve? It’s hard to know without seeing it in person.
I mentioned in the other post I believe the engine got “cooked” with incorrect weight oil. I sincerely hope I am wrong with that statement. But I can’t see past any dealership suggesting 20w50? It just is a tough pill to swallow.
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[quote=”Docgoodluck” post=110895]Yes this oil was recomended by the dealer per turbo, sounds to heavy to me also, but 120000 miles with no problem. I just changed the oil cooler today, still same problem. Flushing the oil system is the next step,but this really should not effect the pressure reading. No noise from still doesn’t make since to me. We have been driving the car this way for over six months. Still runs great and hasn’t locked up. Has me puzzled for sure.
Thanks Doc[/quote]
Well maybe others will not say it but I will go out on a limb and do so.
I am not puzzled at all because you have been running the wrong oil in the engine for years and now the results of that are showing up in a worn engine which cannot hold any oil pressure at idle or minimum pressure at other low rpms. I believe nothing you do now will change anything because you cannot undo the damage.
These engines need 2 things:
1. Frequent oil changes because they are very prone to sludge build up – at least every 5000 miles minimum for changes
2. The correct oil grade which is not a heavy 20 -50 that you have been using which is completely unsuitable. It needs 0-40 or 5-40 fully synthetic(or even a 5-30) as others have pointed out repeatedly.
I cannot explain why you are seeing 60 lbs pressure ONLY when lifting the throttle and rpms are declining because that in isolation makes no sense. I find it hard to believe that is happening in isolation when you are not also getting an intermittent reading at a high pressure at other times such as when the engine oil is stone cold and you are running higher RPMs when accelerating. The only reason I could deduce for an intermittent high reading like that is a stuck oil pressure relief valve which then rapidly clears.
However the real problem is the very low to zero oil pressure at low revs. I believe you now have a very worn engine at the miles run ( due in large part to using the wrong lubrication)and it will not hold any decent oil pressure at lower rpm whatever you do now.
Feel free to jump in and disagree.
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