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I’m trying to revive a Rav4 that has had some random work done on it by the previous owner to try and get it running again. But I’m getting stuck.
- Compression on all 4 cylinders is ok 155-157
- Fuel pressure on the rail appears ok at about 47 psi with no signs of leak down (couldn’t test long due to fitting) based lead down on pressure remaining in the system overnight.
- I was able to get spark on all 4 coils but now I’m not
- I see 12V and 5V signal on the coil lines but one line (not ground) is sitting at 0V while cranking and the 5V doesn’t seem to change — using a volt meter not a scope
– I’ve put in known good coils and plugs from another car
– I replaced the fuel pump (wasn’t working) and drained the fuel tank and put in fresh gas
– I’ve inspected all the wiring and fittings physically and they look ok
– The previous owner seems to have swapped out many of the sensors, coil packs, cam sensor and O2 sensor. I swapped in coils and plugs that I know to work from another car.
– At one point the previous owner probably tried using another ECU from a 4×4 RAV. I don’t know what issues this might do, but I feel like the immobilizer would have prevented a direct swap from working without using a different key. I believe the ECU in it now is the original.Using a ODBII while cranking I see the following:
Coolant 25C
MAF 2.8g/s
Revs: 250 rpm
load: 59.6%
O2S1Eq: 1.0
STFT1: 0.0%
intake: 26C
Timing Adv: 5 deg
Throttle: 13.7%I’ve had a variety of problems while debugging this car. Before I found the bad fuel pump I was able to get it to spark and kick using starting fluid and I also used an in-line spark probe (simple light) and saw it lighting. After changing out the fuel pump, checking compression and fuel pressure I can’t seem to get spark again.
So I’m stuck now on the possibilities:
– The only code is P0758 – transmission shift solenoid B electrical
– Currently I’m not seeing a spark, but coils have 12V and 5V signal (I’m not sure my multi-meter would indicate ignition pulses or not — but it sits pretty solid on 5V and 0V for the two inner wires besides the ground and 12V.)
– Is the immobilizer causing a problem? I only have the key not the FOB. The drivers door lock seems to behave a little strange so I’ve tried locking and unlocking with both drivers door and back door. I don’t know how to tell if this is immobilized or not. The fuse is present in the fuse box. I pulled it but didn’t see any change while cranking. I would not be surprised if there is something intermittent with the door mechanisms.
– I’ve tried shorting pins 4 and 13 on the OBDII connector for 30 minutes with ignition on to reset the ECU but that didn’t change anything.
– I’m not sure how to tell if the immobilizer is preventing ignition or not (I think the 2002 RAVs – 2nd GEN. will crank but not fire when immobilized, not I’m not sure)
– What is a good next step to try?Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks!
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