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98 Honda Accord Intake Manifold Removal

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 98 Honda Accord Intake Manifold Removal

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  • #442074
    98accord32198accord321
    Participant

      Hello,

    Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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    • #442075
      MattMatt
      Participant

        I thought I had the perfect video for you, but it’s a v6 intake. Anyway, here is a video on giving you a little more access to the backside of your engine. Good luck.

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IcfeyA3L3E

        But now that I think about it, why are you removing the intake? There shouldn’t be any oil leaks you can fix by removing the intake, unless you are trying to do a head gasket. I would wash the engine down with brake clean, and try and pinpoint your leak(s). Start from the top and work your way down, both with the cleaning and with gasket changing. For instance, do the valve cover and the dizzy O-ring. then move lower, etc, after you have confirmed that these seals are leaking.

        #442076
        college mancollege man
        Moderator

          A+ on beefys post to clean the oil spots and then search for new oil leaks. C8-)

          #442077
          98accord32198accord321
          Participant

            thanks guys, i appreciate it. trying to get everything cleaned. its gunked up EVERY WHERE. I’ll let you know how it goes.

            #442078
            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
            Keymaster

              I think you might be on the wrong path. I agree that switching to synthetic on a high mileage engine will often cause just about every seal on the engine to leak but give it time after you go back to conventional before you start condemning the seals, a couple of oil changes at least. Also I can’t think of a single reason to remove the intake to cure an oil leak as there are no oil seals anywhere near the intake other than the valve cover gasket. The rule with oil leaks is to start high and work your way down, the highest seal on that engine would be the valve cover gasket so you might want to start there and save yourself the trouble of taking the intake off, you might even consider a valve adjustment while you’re in there. After that you might consider a distributor ‘o’ ring as they are also a common leak and the next time you do a timing belt replace the front engine seals, this would leave you with the oil pan gasket and the rear main seals should you still have a leak after that, if you have a manual trans and need a clutch this would be a great time to address the rear main but since that’s the most difficult seal to replace I would save that one for last.

              Once again give it time before you condemn all the seals, once you remove the intake you’ll have to replace that gasket and I can tell you that won’t be fun mostly because you need to remove all of the old gasket material before installing the new gasket so don’t do that unless you have to.

              #442079
              mkcmkc
              Participant

                I also have a ’98 Accord 2.3 182,000 miles and just went through fixing all the oil leaks on it. There are five rubber seals on the passenger side of the motor that tend to get hard from age and heat and leak at about the age and miles of your car. In addition to the distributor o-ring, the internal seal in the distributor tends to leak also. Take off the distributor cap and look for oil leaking out inside the distributor. If it is leaking, you have to replace the distributor housing since the seal is not sold separately. I paid about $140.00 from Majestic Honda. Then look at the VTEC module (or spool valve assembly as Honda calls it) which is behind the distributor on the back of the cylinder head. There are three seals there that leak: an o-ring that seals the oil pressure switch, a seal that fits between the module and the cylinder head and a seal under the solenoid at the top of the module. The one under the solenoid is not sold separately and you have to replace the entire assembly to get it. My advice is to go ahead and replace the entire assembly if any of these seals are leaking. The entire module (spool valve assembly is about $100). My experience was that first the pressure switch o-ring leaked and I replaced it. The the seal between the module and the head leaked and I replaced it. Then it started leaking oil through the pressure switch ($50) and I replaced it and the 0-ring again. Then the seal under the solenoid cracked and sprayed oil all over the engine compartment and I had to replace the entire module. I could have saved a lot of time, money and aggravation by just replacing the assembly to start with. There is also an oil pressure sending unit that can leak, but mine hasn’t yet

                #442080
                dreamer2355dreamer2355
                Participant

                  You may also want to do a compression test to check for excessive blow-by as well as looking at your PCV system.

                  Here is a link to Eric’s video on compression testing –

                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFY … t3EVppbf88

                  #442081
                  EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                  Keymaster

                    Quoted From dreamer2355:

                    You may also want to do a compression test to check for excessive blow-by as well as looking at your PCV system.

                    Here is a link to Eric’s video on compression testing –

                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFY … t3EVppbf88

                    If you do replace the PCV get an OE unit as I’ve actually seen aftermarket PCV valves cause idle issues.

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