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accord stalling on every stop.

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This topic contains 16 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Eric The Car Guy EricTheCarGuy 7 years ago.

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    Topic
  • #541847
    Belial
    Belial
    Participant

    I just bought a 92 accord lx mannual transmission. The car runs good but stalls every time i come to a stop.I’ve cleaned the iacv but had no luck.so i replaced it from another accord. I also blead the cooling system but it still turns of every time i come to a complete stop. I tried serching for vacuum leaks but dint really found any.also I’ve notice that when i leave my home is a down hill driveway. The car always dies going down as well even when i’m just at idle on neutral.ones i reached leveled floor i turn it on again and works fine until i come to a stop then it dies again.only on the stops does the idle drop very low to the point of stalling.what can it be any body thanks for your help.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 16 total)
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  • #541852
    Daniel
    Daniel
    Participant

    Sounds like you have a vacuum leak from your brake master cylinder. Get a can of carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner and with the engine running spray the hell outta the master cylinder vacuum body (the big black round thing attached to the brake fluid reservoir.) If you hear the engine idle drop then you found your leak. Or unplug the vacuum line from the master cylinder, plug the line going to the engine (with a bolt or your thumb), start it up, and push on the brakes. If it does not stall then you know the master cylinder was the problem.

    #541856
    Belial
    Belial
    Participant

    I will go try this right now i dint know the master cylinder had anything to do with this.i will go they this thanks.

    #541858
    Daniel
    Daniel
    Participant

    I’m sorry it’s the brake “booster,” (brain fart) the master cylinder is attached to it.

    #541918
    Dorman
    Dorman
    Participant

    Does the car continue to stall after the engine has been brought up to operating temperature?

    Any check engine light?

    #541928
    Belial
    Belial
    Participant

    I have no check engine light and still stalls when the car is warmed up only when I come to a stop though. otherwise the car runs good and never turns off when its running only when I start slowing down and come to a complete stop RPM’s go down and the car dies. I cheked to see if i had a vacume leek on my break booster but did not find any.

    #541934
    Daniel
    Daniel
    Participant

    did you pull off the vacuum line going to the brake booster, plug it, and have someone push on the brake while it idles?

    #541942
    Dorman
    Dorman
    Participant

    If there is no check engine light I am going to say that all the sensors(IACV) and electrical connections are working as they should.

    I would try cleaning out the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and try to get all the carbon out of where the throttle plate swings open and close.

    If the car stalls while you are in neutral and coasting, and it stalls if you simply hold in the clutch pedal I would say the Brake Booster can be eliminated from this issue.

    #541946
    Bill
    Bill
    Participant

    I found this while looking for a fix for your problem. It may or may not help.

    The popular Honda Civic and Accord vehicles share many powertrain components, including engines and transmissions. While these shared parts help reduce vehicle up-front costs, shared parts can also mean shared problems.

    The P0505 error code is one of the problems that the Accord and Civic share – and it’s a relatively common problems too. P0505 indicates that the Idle Air Control Valve IACV is not operating correctly.

    If your Accord or Civic has a P0505 code, there are three likely causes:
    1.The IACV-AAC valve harness is open and allowing moisture inside
    2.The IACV has a poor electrical connection, or
    3.The idle air control valve itself is faulty

    Other Honda models that can sometimes have this issue include the Odyssey minivan and the Honda Pilot, both of which have technical service bulletins (TBBs) listed for them that any repair shop can access for more details.

    For the driver, a P0505 code will usually mean that the engine becomes hard to start, runs roughly, or idles erratically. The engine may also shut off (choke out or stall) at stop lights after being driven to temperature (e.g. only after the vehicle has “warmed up”).

    The IACV controls the engine’s idle speed at a specific level. When the engine is cold, the car will idle at a higher speed so that the engine can warm up as quickly as possible. This way, emissions control systems can reach optimum operating temperatures as fast as possible. The IACV manipulates the idle speed by controlling the amount of auxiliary air that enters the engine from the bypass passage…more air means faster idle.

    If the IACV isn’t working correctly, the engine can be starved of oxygen…this causes the symptoms (rough idle, stalling, etc.) described above. Often times a short-circuit is the cause of an IACV problem, so it’s a good idea to check the wiring harness first when diagnosing the problem.

    Occasionally, the valve itself may be blocked or stuck and require replacement. Whatever the issue, a simple diagnostic of the wiring harness and circuit is usually all that’s required to locate the problem.

    #541953
    Belial
    Belial
    Participant

    I have not tried plugging the hose that goes to the intake coming from the break booster.but i have notice that since i put half a tank of fuel it no longer stalls. But now i have very hunting idle. I tried turning the fiacv screw all the way till it stoped. Now is nice and tight but the idle still continues to go up and down. Im not sure what els causes the idle to act up like this besides the fiacv.

    #542000
    college man
    college man
    Moderator
    #542218
    Daniel
    Daniel
    Participant

    If you read his discription you would see that it stalls when he was hitting the brake, not just when it idles

    #542220
    Daniel
    Daniel
    Participant

    Why don’t you try pulling the hose off like I said. Skipping diag steps is not going to help you fix this.

    #542231
    Belial
    Belial
    Participant

    I found out that the break booster is fine. ever since i put a lot of gas the car does not shut of at all. When ever i use to go down hill the car will die with out me even pressing the break.but after puting half a tank of gas it never died again even going down hill.so now i think there is something with the gastank.as far as my idle i do have a hunting idle still but the problem with it shutig off is not doing it any more as longest i have about half a tank of fuel.

    #542235
    Daniel
    Daniel
    Participant

    So in your initial statement you said, “only on the stops does the idle drop very low to the point of stalling.”
    And now your saying, “When ever i use to go down hill the car will die with out me even pressing the break.”
    How about you get your story straight before you waste my time again.

    #542243
    Belial
    Belial
    Participant

    In my initial statement i did state that the car died every time i came to a stop and i also had mesion that it turns of when i go down hill.i mention both ways my car dies the reason was every time i break the little bit of fuel it had went foward causing the fuel pump to not have enoughto suck on.thats why it died going down hill as well as wen i break.

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