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I’m just glad you stuck to it, Eric. That’s why I like this video. Makes me think twice about doing my own wheel bearings.
I would’ve gave up about five minutes into that 20 ton press. How much would it cost to replace that whole knuckle?
Yeah that was a brutal. Glad you were able to get it though. Nothing more frustrating than almost getting there, and then something goes catastrophically wrong (such as that knuckle cracking). As always, nice work!
Should have removed the shoes and the debris from it, and then test drove it.
Could have been where the bearing noise was actually coming from.
Good video. Always like to see how the pros deal with really sticky problems, and it nearly always comes down to the Big Red Wrench 🙂
Was anybody else backing away from the screen as Eric cranked the press harder?
One serious question: using the air hammer to break the driveshaft free of the knuckle. Is there any way by doing that – or using a hub puller or similar – that you could push the shaft back far enough to damage something inside the diff?
Using force is common practice in freeing a half shaft.
The diff is designed with enough lateral shaft play, not necessarily for freeing a hub, but to allow the suspension components to move.
The half shaft moves in and out of the diff a little bit as the suspension moves.The only exception that I can recall, are non independent suspension vehicles.
IIRC on those, the hub and the shaft are 1 piece. So to remove it, you open the diff and remove the retaining C clip, then slide out the hub/shaft.[quote=”FNDLAIR” post=150012]I would’ve gave up about five minutes into that 20 ton press. How much would it cost to replace that whole knuckle?[/quote]
I don’t believe Advance sells the complete assembly.
[quote=”AKGC” post=150038]Using force is common practice in freeing a half shaft.
The diff is designed with enough lateral shaft play, not necessarily for freeing a hub, but to allow the suspension components to move.
The half shaft moves in and out of the diff a little bit as the suspension moves.The only exception that I can recall, are non independent suspension vehicles.
IIRC on those, the hub and the shaft are 1 piece. So to remove it, you open the diff and remove the retaining C clip, then slide out the hub/shaft.[/quote]Not sure where you’re going with this. It was not necessary to remove the shaft to do this job. Also, the shaft does not move in and out of the differential as you imply with this style of suspension. It actually moves inside the inner CV joint.
Nice video Eric! This kind of style of yours is what made me a fan. I’ve handled many wheel bearing hells myself, but I like watching how other people deal with these kinds of situations. There is no training/school for this kind of work, and no standardized practices for dealing with corrosion. That makes it a very interesting aspect of auto repair that I remain a permanent student of.
[quote=”Dunebasher” post=150037]One serious question: using the air hammer to break the driveshaft free of the knuckle. Is there any way by doing that – or using a hub puller or similar – that you could push the shaft back far enough to damage something inside the diff?[/quote]
Yes you can. If you are doing it by hand (including holding the Air Hammer in your hand) you will feel it hit and likely stop pushing against the diff at that point before any harm is done. At that point, you’d pull the hub farther away from the diff to make more room before you finish air hammering it out. With a puller on the hub, necessary only when the axle is severely seized in the hub, I’ve had to take things apart during the puller operation to give the axle someplace to go. One of my videos shows it. When forcing it apart with a puller/press, it’s not as easy to feel when you run out of travel for the axle.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=150042] Also, the shaft does not move in and out of the differential as you imply with this style of suspension. It actually moves inside the inner CV joint.[/quote]
Exactly right.These are a royal pain in the butt.One is the c clip being very careful not destroying this clip.Destroy this clip,a trip to the parts department at the dealer since this clip is a dealer only part.
I have done several of those bearings and you made it look easy until it came to pressing the bearing out. Personally, I hate replacing them on those trucks. It seams it’s always a battle. I have never seen one that hard to press out however. As others have mentioned you should never press on the inner bearing race as it can damage the roller or ball bearings inside. I always torque the axle nut so it applies the correct preload on the bearing. I guess everyone has their own way. You know when you have done a days work after one of those.
Nice job anyway, Eric[quote=”AKGC” post=150036]Should have removed the shoes and the debris from it, and then test drove it.
Could have been where the bearing noise was actually coming from.[/quote]
That’s not where the noise was coming from. If it was rust making the noise, it would have sounded like sharp rocks in a clothes dryer. It was defiantly a bearing noise. I believe I proved that in the video both on the road and on the lift. The rust wasn’t like that until I hit the rotor with a hammer. Before that it was a blob of corrosion just waiting to come apart.
[quote=”wysetech” post=150082]I have done several of those bearings and you made it look easy until it came to pressing the bearing out. Personally, I hate replacing them on those trucks. It seams it’s always a battle. I have never seen one that hard to press out however. As others have mentioned you should never press on the inner bearing race as it can damage the roller or ball bearings inside. I always torque the axle nut so it applies the correct preload on the bearing. I guess everyone has their own way. You know when you have done a days work after one of those.
Nice job anyway, Eric[/quote]Had I had something handy to push on the outside of the bearing I would have. Sometimes you work with what you have. I don’t think it will be an issue. I do it differently in future videos though. Thanks for your input.
In the world of hydraulics and presses, 20 tons just ain’t that much. Sometimes it’s just easier to drive over to a truck repair shop with big equipment.
Great video…
Ah this brings back memories… Standing off to the side of the press… waiting for the sound of a rifle shot or something to blow to pieces….
Anyone who has done this enough will tell you that when you get resistance on the press like Eric got, your first thought is always “Oh $#it…. did I put the knuckle on the press backwards” 🙂
Also as Eric said about putting the splash shield on prior to hub going in…. Yup, been there did that… got in a hurry and got the hub on and looked down on the floor at the splash shield…. FUDGE!!!!! That dumb mistake cost me another 30 minutes and a $29 Bearing…
Oh by the way, Toyotas use a inner and outer seal…. if you forget that, you are also screwed… in the same way….
Also seen a guy trying to put the hub in on The wrong Side of the knuckle while using a hub tamer (I saved him on that one)….
A trick that I do now when I get one as sticky as Eric got (yes, I have had a couple) is that I use a large expendable impact socket and fit the pushing disk over the bearing then whack the bejeezus out of it using the socket to hit the disk square… the hammering motion shocks the bearing and gets it moving… and once it starts moving, you’re usually good and can put it in the press and push it out…
Karl
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