- This topic has 64 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Aka everything is wrong and my car hates me.
Car: 2000 lexus es300, 3.0L 1mzfe and 4 speed auto trans.
developing thread on the chans (Will copy paste info as related to here)
http://boards.4chan.org/o/thread/10961249WARNING: MASSIVE WALL OF TEXT INCOMING. I will try to keep it organized but there’s a lot of information and maybe my brain is a bit fried right now. I’ll try to clean it up later, until then please bear with me.
Since I got my car it’s always had a hiccup at idle. After a few thousand miles it got worse and I was blessed with the codes:
p1130 (AFR circuit range performance bank 1 sensor 1)
p1150 (AFR circuit range performance bank 2 sensor 1)
p1135 (heater circuit bank 1 etc etc)
p1155 (heater blahb blah other bank)
P0125 (from googling I found this was caused by the previous offending codes apparently.)Towards the end of this (just the last week or so, I also got the 1133 and 1153 circuit response malfunction, which was kind of scary because it moves things from
>the AFR sensors are giving out of range responses
to
>the AFR sensors aren’t even talking back properlyI finally got the money to buy new OEM replacements and installed them last night. took it out for a drive and everything seemed ok, but it was still hiccuping a little (Not as bad it seemed though) and I wasn’t getting any codes, so I went to bed.
This morning I’ve got the codes shown in the title again. Both AFR sensors are brand new Denso units, and I’ve checked the AFR heater and EFI fuses (no idea how to check the relays nor where the AFR relay is for this car, doesn’t have one in the fuse box, if at all).
Tonight I’m going to try and trace the wires for the sensors (which will be really, really fun I’m sure) and continuity test them but I feel like that’s pointless as I’m getting the exact same codes for both banks which use different sets of wires, right?
MISC INFO:
Also have a MAF in the mail.
pulled the MAF for funzies to see what effect it’d have this time. car idled fine but I made the mistake of pulling it onto the road to see how it felt.
literally no power, I could floor it and got almost no revs. at this point I’m just doing random stuff and don’t know what the results mean but I thought it couldn’t hurt to share.
Also checked the fuses, all of them are fine, didn’t see an AFR relay marked.
I did find some other people with the same problem but none of them seemed to have gotten it fixed.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-and-es330/487472-dumb-2000-lexus-es300-a-f-and-cl-lights-pics.html>it’s even the same colour as mine
Must be a grey issue!Update 1: heater circuit codes are back as well
-
Replies
-
Also if anyone wants me to do any tests or anything request away, just keep in mind I’m limited in tools (basic socket set and driver, electrical tester from the 70s from my dad, jack/stands, and a burning hatred for all things electrical in my car right now) and knowledge.
Not gonna lie had no idea what ect meant Lil
Google says http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/ect-sensor.php
That? I’ll check it later today and update, thank you.
No problem… If the ECT is way off, or wrong, it can confuse things…. It is required for proper closed loop operation of fuel mixture…
-Karl
Kay got some readings. Engine was already kinda warm but I let the needle get to the middle anyway
See attached file, went from 69c at startup to 80c
Also added another screenshot of what data I could get from the o2 sensors. Rest say no data
OK this explains the P0125 code… 80C is essentially 176 degrees Fahrenheit… The engine should be between 185 to 195 degrees Fahrenheit.
Essentially, this code trips to let you know that after a certain amount of time, the engine still has not heated up enough to go into closed loop operation…
If you cannot get it to go up to temperature (in this case 185F translates to 85C, this code will continue to occur)… Does the engine never reach that temp?
If the engine does not reach 85C then there is a problem with overcooling or a ECT itself…
Are your cooling fan(s) constantly running? (even when cold?) Toyotas default to running the fan full time if there is an issue when the fan coolant switch attached to the radiator is bad or is disconnected…
-Karl
Generally they kick on when the ac is on, which it was when I did the test.
I’m at work but when I go on break in a bit I’ll drive it around and monitor the temp to see if it gets there.
OK, took it for a drive, got up to around 97 while at idle at a stop light, but went back down to mid 80s when I got back up to cruising speed (55)
Edit, I didn’t get a screen shot of it at the light but it was mid yo high 90s and said “closed loop, using o2 sensors for fuel mix” or something of that effect
Edit 2: not sure if its important but I did that with the ac off. I currently have it on as I type this and the hiccuping is much worse, engine says it’s in open loop and I’m at 85c
Attached picture for more info again.
Try this… Disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds then reconnect it good and tight…. Start the car and drive it around with the air conditioning off and monitor for codes…
Also, with your A/C off, is your radiator fan (should be the one on the driver side) running all the time?
-Karl
I’ll have to wait till I get home to get the battery terminal off bastard is on there tight and I have no tools with me.
Fan is not always on when I just let it idle without the ac. Fact I’d say it mostly stays off then unless I let it sit long enough.
OK… Another thing… Check your A/F (Air/Fuel) heater fuse to see if it is blown… check them all for good measure as well…
Edit: I see you checked the A/F fuse and it was good… to check a relay just remove and apply voltage to the small prongs and listen for the click of the relay…
-Karl
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.