Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS brake bleeding with esc system › Reply To: 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS brake bleeding with esc system
Topic | Subscribe Favorite
July 1, 2018 at 11:33 pm
Hello- Looking for help on brake bleeding my 2006 Hyundai sonata with Electronic Stable control (esc). I have learned that you have to have a pro scan tool in order to open up the abs pump and solenoid order to bleed the brakes. I purchased one and have directions but they are not clear enough. Once you put it in brake bleeding mode on the scan tool, do you immediately have the second person pump the brakes and hold then loosen the bleeder screw and close? Or do you leave the bleeder screw open until the scan tool tells you to close the screw? Any help is much appreciated. thanks
Viewing 3 replies – 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
July 2, 2018 at 2:14 am
Bleeding the brakes on the Hyundais & Kias with ESC is a bit different than bleeding them the way we used to back in the day. One of the things you’ll need to do it correctly is a Hi-Scan (Pro) tool. Not exactly something you’ll have laying around in your toolbox.
To properly bleed the brakes, do the following:
NOTE: When pressure bleeding, do not depress the brake pedal. Recommended fluid: DOT3 or DOT4
1 Clean then remove the reservoir cap and fill the brake reservoir with clean brake fluid.
2 Connect a clear plastic tube to the wheel cylinder bleeder plug and insert the other end of the tube into a half filled clear plastic bottle.
3 Connect the Hi-Scan (Pro) to the data link connector (DLC) located underneath the dash panel.
4 Select and operate according to the instructions on the Hi-Scan (Pro) screen.
CAUTION: You must obey the maximum operating time of the ABS motor with the Hi-Scan (Pro) to prevent the motor pump from burning out.
5 Select Hyundai vehicle diagnosis
6 Select vehicle name.
7 Select Anti-Lock Brake system.
8 Select air bleeding mode.
Press “YES” to operate motor pump and solenoid valve.
WARNING Wait 60 seconds before operating the air bleeding again. (If not, you may damage the motor.)
9 Pump the pedal several times and then loosen the bleeder screw until fluid starts to run out without bubbles (or clean brake fluid if flushing the system). Then close the bleeder screw.
10 Repeat from step 5 until there are no more bubbles in the fluid for each wheel.
I’ve seen several different lists of which wheel should go first, second, etc. To my knowledge, you should work from the wheel which is furthest away from the master cylinder, then the second furthest, and so on until you’ve finished all four wheels.
As an alternate method, you can let the brakes gravity bleed. You don’t want to pump the brakes with any method because you run the distinct chance of ruining the master cylinder in the process. Gravity bleeding involves just popping open the bleeder valve and letting the brake fluid bleed into a bottle through clear tubing. When the fluid runs clean, that wheel is complete. This takes a lot of time to complete and you have to be patient. Ensure you keep the master cylinder fluid level up to full or you’ll have to start back at the beginning and do it all over again.
July 3, 2018 at 1:17 am
Thank you a million. This is the first time I had to deal with this type of bleeding. I have mitchells guide for the car which gave me directions, but it wasn’t clear to me. I have a pro scan tool and ran the abs pump( I could hear it turn on) had my wife pump the brake three time and hold, then I loosened the bleed screw. So, wasn’t sure if you should have her pump the brakes right after the abs pump turns on? I did do this with all four wheels starting with the LF,RR,LR and RF per Mitchells guide.but was unsuccessful. I get a firm pedal when I engine is off, but seems very spongy when car is turned on. I am able to stop the car. I had to replace the brake lines most of the way due to rusting out. All the fluid in the master cylinder ran dry. I changed the calipers rotors , pads and parking brake assembly. Do I have to bleed the Master Cylinder on its own? Thank you again so much. Never had to deal with this situation before. Learning can be frustrating at times.
July 3, 2018 at 3:07 am
No worries, that’s why we are all here.
Do I have to bleed the Master Cylinder on its own?
Considering you ran it empty.
Personally, I would.
Here is a Q & D method.
Was this ever resolved? I am having the same issue after replacing the calipers, rotors, pads, and master cylinder. We followed all of the bleeding procedures to the letter after replacing the calipers and had the same spongy pedal. I went down and spoke with the mechanics at the dealer in town and they said it was most likely the master cylinder had a small piece of dirt in it from bleeding the brakes. That was what they found most of the time anyway. So my mechanic replaced the master with a new one and the pedal is still spongy. It stops fine but while I am sitting there if I push down on the pedal it will go almost to the floor and it never did that before all of the work.
So if anyone has been through this and knows the answer I would sure be grateful if you would post that answer please. Thanks much, frustrated.