Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Agreed with 21Actual with this one. I am not a Toyota expert but I did do a very quick search on your vehicle and there are no real aftermarket options available for your model and the ones I did find would not do you any good for what you are looking for power wise… sorry. You would have to look into “Custom built” exhaust and turbo kits for this model and $$$ ouch! No point in simply repeating 21Actual here he/she had good valid points.
About the only thing I would suggest is: “IF” you even wanted to give it a shot to see “IF” it gives you anymore performance on the relative cheap side would be to simply get a K&N drop-in filter… I do not believe they have a larger conical type for your car geared for performance, again… sorry, and a “Professional Tune off a Dyno” with a handheld tuner like an SCT or something like that. (Keep in mind that even that dyno tune is going to cost$$ along with the tuning device but not as much as a Custom built Exhaust which might give you 10hp if you are lucky, that even goes for the dyno results as well… and as for the Turbo, forget it.) just my $.02 worth. Engine strength is also foremost on my mind as well, Toyota built that for dependability and economy not going 0-60 or doing laps at the Laguna Seca…. you may end up doing more harm than good for yourself in the long run is all I am getting at.)
If it makes you feel any better I have the same issue with my ’98 Mazda B2500 pick-up. One day I am going to yank out that 2.5Ltr. 4-Cyl. and drop in a 5.0 OHV V-8. Some people put turbo kits on their 2.5 Ltr engines but I say heck with that… I’m putting a V-8 in that bad boy!
Good luck.Agreed with 21Actual with this one. I am not a Toyota expert but I did do a very quick search on your vehicle and there are no real aftermarket options available for your model and the ones I did find would not do you any good for what you are looking for power wise… sorry. You would have to look into “Custom built” exhaust and turbo kits for this model and $$$ ouch! No point in simply repeating 21Actual here he/she had good valid points.
About the only thing I would suggest is: “IF” you even wanted to give it a shot to see “IF” it gives you anymore performance on the relative cheap side would be to simply get a K&N drop-in filter… I do not believe they have a larger conical type for your car geared for performance, again… sorry, and a “Professional Tune off a Dyno” with a handheld tuner like an SCT or something like that. (Keep in mind that even that dyno tune is going to cost$$ along with the tuning device but not as much as a Custom built Exhaust which might give you 10hp if you are lucky, that even goes for the dyno results as well… and as for the Turbo, forget it.) just my $.02 worth. Engine strength is also foremost on my mind as well, Toyota built that for dependability and economy not going 0-60 or doing laps at the Laguna Seca…. you may end up doing more harm than good for yourself in the long run is all I am getting at.)
If it makes you feel any better I have the same issue with my ’98 Mazda B2500 pick-up. One day I am going to yank out that 2.5Ltr. 4-Cyl. and drop in a 5.0 OHV V-8. Some people put turbo kits on their 2.5 Ltr engines but I say heck with that… I’m putting a V-8 in that bad boy!
Good luck.I had a similar issue (“Meaning is it worth it.”) with my brother-in-laws car a couple years back he had a ’97-’02 Daewoo Lanos Hatchback that would not stop over heating even after we found the connection to his radiator and thermostat had cracked… it was a plastic piece of “….”
Anyway he decided to go ahead and replace the radiator and thermostat but yet still was overheating, and was not able to find any other reason for this and since my tools had been stolen from his garage 2 months before this situation happened I was not in a position to “Help” him. 😉Point is after he put an est. $600-800 into trying to fix his own vehicle which was only worth about $1k anyways with no real success he asked my opinion, after looking at it once more even just on my visual I could see more possible issues arising in the near future for him and this car not to mention it have overheated pretty bad twice already to my knowledge and I don’t even want to think about what that had done to the internals. I don’t know really what model and or how much your car is worth… unfortunately I think you may be in the same boat he was in and he had to eventually sell his car for basically a “Parts Car” price to recover some of what he lost in parts just to try and get it running again. (And it barely did that when he sold it.)
All in all stop and think before you get too far in over your head, if not already. He spend almost what the car was worth and only was able to sell it for about $300-$500 if I remember correctly, and he still is sore about it today!
In this case I think you may be the only one that can answer your own question here….. Is it worth it?I had a similar issue (“Meaning is it worth it.”) with my brother-in-laws car a couple years back he had a ’97-’02 Daewoo Lanos Hatchback that would not stop over heating even after we found the connection to his radiator and thermostat had cracked… it was a plastic piece of “….”
Anyway he decided to go ahead and replace the radiator and thermostat but yet still was overheating, and was not able to find any other reason for this and since my tools had been stolen from his garage 2 months before this situation happened I was not in a position to “Help” him. 😉Point is after he put an est. $600-800 into trying to fix his own vehicle which was only worth about $1k anyways with no real success he asked my opinion, after looking at it once more even just on my visual I could see more possible issues arising in the near future for him and this car not to mention it have overheated pretty bad twice already to my knowledge and I don’t even want to think about what that had done to the internals. I don’t know really what model and or how much your car is worth… unfortunately I think you may be in the same boat he was in and he had to eventually sell his car for basically a “Parts Car” price to recover some of what he lost in parts just to try and get it running again. (And it barely did that when he sold it.)
All in all stop and think before you get too far in over your head, if not already. He spend almost what the car was worth and only was able to sell it for about $300-$500 if I remember correctly, and he still is sore about it today!
In this case I think you may be the only one that can answer your own question here….. Is it worth it?That is a great question one I have asked myself in recent years especially since my first car that had one was a 2005 Ford Mustang GT.
Basically here is an answer:
There are several reasons why electronic throttle actuation is preferable to a conventional throttle cable:
• The vehicle’s on board electronic systems are able to control all of the engine’s operation with the exception of the amount of incoming air.
• The use of throttle actuation ensures that the engine only receives the correct amount of throttle opening for any give situation
• The optimization of the air supply will also ensure that harmful exhaust emissions are kept to an absolute minimum and drivability is maintained, regardless of the circumstances. Coupling the electronic throttle actuation to the adaptive cruise control, traction control, idle speed control and vehicle stability control systems also means finer control can be achieved.
The use of such a system has advantages over the conventional cable version by:
• Eliminating the mechanical element of a throttle cable and substituting it with fast responding electronics, reduces the number of moving parts (and associated wear) and therefore requires minimum adjustment and maintenance.
• Greater accuracy of data improves the drivability of the vehicle, which in turn provides better response and economy.• “Disadvantage” is that manufacturers often reduce throttle sensitivity in the low-mid throttle range to make the car easier or safer to control – or to protect the drivetrain (gearbox, clutch, etc.) from driver abuse. The feeling to the driver is that the throttle feels less responsive. There are aftermarket electronic kits to increase throttle sensitivity, to re-gain a more direct-feeling relationship between pedal position and throttle valve opening.
Now… personal opinion are yes there is a decrease in sensitivity in throttle response, but I think you feel it more with the modern day muscle cars with more horse power than your typical economy cars…. Most Mftr. companies have already switched to this setup in their muscle cars specifically for better computer fuel control and safety. It has made aftermarket addition a little harder to manage at times in the beginning because of the Drive-by-wire system if the CPU did not like a particular parameter it would very literally shut the system down and caused a no start condition for a time till the system would reset. I had an issue with an aftermarket tuner that did this and Ford had to get my car started. After all that I purchased a different handheld tuner and had a professional tuner “Dyno Tune” the car and I have had no issues since that time. All in all I don’t really see too big of a problem with them, they are getting better and my now > ’06 Mustang is doing just fine with one.
That is a great question one I have asked myself in recent years especially since my first car that had one was a 2005 Ford Mustang GT.
Basically here is an answer:
There are several reasons why electronic throttle actuation is preferable to a conventional throttle cable:
• The vehicle’s on board electronic systems are able to control all of the engine’s operation with the exception of the amount of incoming air.
• The use of throttle actuation ensures that the engine only receives the correct amount of throttle opening for any give situation
• The optimization of the air supply will also ensure that harmful exhaust emissions are kept to an absolute minimum and drivability is maintained, regardless of the circumstances. Coupling the electronic throttle actuation to the adaptive cruise control, traction control, idle speed control and vehicle stability control systems also means finer control can be achieved.
The use of such a system has advantages over the conventional cable version by:
• Eliminating the mechanical element of a throttle cable and substituting it with fast responding electronics, reduces the number of moving parts (and associated wear) and therefore requires minimum adjustment and maintenance.
• Greater accuracy of data improves the drivability of the vehicle, which in turn provides better response and economy.• “Disadvantage” is that manufacturers often reduce throttle sensitivity in the low-mid throttle range to make the car easier or safer to control – or to protect the drivetrain (gearbox, clutch, etc.) from driver abuse. The feeling to the driver is that the throttle feels less responsive. There are aftermarket electronic kits to increase throttle sensitivity, to re-gain a more direct-feeling relationship between pedal position and throttle valve opening.
Now… personal opinion are yes there is a decrease in sensitivity in throttle response, but I think you feel it more with the modern day muscle cars with more horse power than your typical economy cars…. Most Mftr. companies have already switched to this setup in their muscle cars specifically for better computer fuel control and safety. It has made aftermarket addition a little harder to manage at times in the beginning because of the Drive-by-wire system if the CPU did not like a particular parameter it would very literally shut the system down and caused a no start condition for a time till the system would reset. I had an issue with an aftermarket tuner that did this and Ford had to get my car started. After all that I purchased a different handheld tuner and had a professional tuner “Dyno Tune” the car and I have had no issues since that time. All in all I don’t really see too big of a problem with them, they are getting better and my now > ’06 Mustang is doing just fine with one.