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That impact gun is awful the torque figure listed is the max torque not the working torque so probably looking at around 120-180 working torque with that being said have you removed the wheels with a bar and then torqued them or are you trying to remove them for the first time without knowing if they’ve been torqued? chances are the bolts have been overtightened when they where put on and the gun simply isn’t powerful enough to remove them.
[quote=”Dunebasher” post=146343]I’ve seen it suggested that using proper impact-rated Torx bits with an impact gun is actually a bad idea because of the dangers of stripping out the head of the bolt.
Certainly, impact-rated sockets with Torx bits seem to be less widely available than regular impact sockets (ditto Allen and similar), which maybe suggests they’re less popular?[/quote
You’re more likely to strip a torx bit with ratchet over an impact as it is the rotational force that strips the head and impacting generally has a lot less rotational force than using a ratchet.
no scheme here as far as i’m aware on tools FYI if you order from the snap on UK website be prepared for a wait you pay for next day delivery and the quickest order i’ve had was 2 weeks. they order in batches from the states so if they dont have it in stock they’ll just hold the order for 2 months without telling you, and if a tool number changes or updates they just wont deliver to you, perfectly nice over the phone and always happy and helpful just frustrating as hell.
Best bet is to go to a main dealer/large garage and get the details of the local snap on guy and give him a ring to ask him to drop by I’d also get the mac guy to come down as it’s always nice to have choices.
some advise from a relatively recent graduate If you need it buy it but dont think everything needs to be snap on.
Some good alternative makes in the uk
Trident
Sealey
Teng
bahco
Knipex
facomAs a Tech from England things are pretty different here compared to the US In terms of Qualifications you just need a level 3 in light vehicle maintenance as an absolute minimum to even be eligibly to apply ( some backstreet places might accept level 2 for light service work)
Having said that even with a level 3 it can be difficult to find work ideally you want to try and do brand training through a main dealer as it really puts you in a good place to make progress as a tech.
We dont have Lube techs A techs and all of that here You’ll be expected to know how to do everything from a tyre to a gearbox to a cylinder head rebuilds the Workshop controller normally dishes out the work and as he knows you he will give you what is appropriate Ie my first gearbox the customer was leaving the car for a few days for all the other bits so plenty time to work it all out same with my first cambelt etc
[quote=”KeithLG” post=143819]UPDATE:
I recently got a position at a Volkswagen dealer on the Service Xpress team. Not a bad job at all, though some of the engineering decisions that were made with these cars drive me up the wall. I definitely feel like I’m getting better at the job with each passing day. Hopefully I can move up from Service Xpress and start tackling jobs other than LOFs and tires soon, but I’m not really in a huge rush. As long as I learn my stuff and show some initiative, I know I’ll get moved up in a reasonable amount of time[/quote]
I started working for the VAG group at the beginning of the year there pretty easy to service just get your self a 12v impact driver for the under tray as most have 8-16 bolts other than that most of the filters there is reasonable access
This is a very tricky issue that can lead to a lot of disputes.
You need to make invoices for all the work you plan to do as well as a contract for the customer to sign that they are agreeing to pay for the work, I use auto data to make the invoicing it’s got a basic but functional system with a customers signature is invaluable to have, Also while working kurb side when i arrive I speak to the customer double check everything is ok with the price parts labour etc Ask for the key do my work and the key will be returned when payment is received, There have been one or two bad instances a few suggestions buy a decent wheel clamp and store it in your van if a customer see’s you clamping the vehicle it can be a big motivation to pay up. If you need to work over multiple days and you’re not sure on the client make them aware you will require them to settle there debt at the end of each day or pay up front, and if you’re uneasy turn down the work It’s hard to do but better to not get the job then spend 3 days doing a job to be stiffed, trust your gut if it doesn’t feel right it probably isn’t.
This is the puller kit I use i that fails to break it lose normally just bill for a hub and a joint as applying the heat will damage the wheel bearing and the cv joint anyway and the prices for the hub usually work out at at 45 mins and if the kit has failed to shift it chances are I’ll be applying heat and hammering for longer than that anyway.
EDIT after watching the video must say well done Many would of given up long before that point .
I use ear protection especially for things like grinding or air hammers only got 1 set of ears and as you say no cure for the tinnitus.
For cost effective space a prefabbed steel structure is always a good bet plenty of sizes to choose from, but being realistic no matter what you do it will not be cheap. it’s not just the structure needs foundations water wiring permits labour costs then even when you’re set up in terms of structure buying a ramp and the associated tools to use one ( Oil drainer stands etc) really the sky the limit on where the costs end.
A torque stick is designed so the lug nuts are not overtightened when using an impact to install them they work like a torsion bar absorbing the impacts when they reach there predesignated torque spec. here not as accurate as a torque wrench but better than just using an impact alone. Most Torque sticks come with a warning on them saying that they are not a replacement for a torque wrench in my experience they are never more than a few Nm off. but that might change as mine get older.
This is a good budget scan tool that will read all systems. they’re are slightly cheaper versions if you want just the data for domestic vehicles but I personally Like to have the option for everything. the platform is quite good if you wish to expand as well I have DPF regen software EPB and Oil light reset software all added to my MD802.
I find having a routine really helps especially with the more mundane jobs if I do a service the same way each time I dont have to think about it to much.
another note on bigger jobs if you remove bolts try and keep them with the part you removed in the correct order makes things a lot easier to put back also if you put a bolt in tighten in then and there and if you need to leave it loose for alignment reasons stay on that job until you have it all on and tight getting pulled of jobs at those points is the main time when thing get forgotten.
If I’m doing torque sensitive work I mark each bolt with a tyre crayon after I torque it that way I’m not second guessing myself.
The nagging feeling is good getting over confident is when mistakes start to happen doesn’t matter if you’ve been on the job 2 months or 20 years.
My first check when I know it’s been to a body shop is to call the customer and find out what was done then charge them to strip it back and check the wiring 9/10 we find the issue stems from the body shop not plugging it back in or damaging the loom rebuilding the car.
Sadly your issue looks to be the 1/10 MDK is right though if a part has been replaced Need to find out why, was it replaced trying to fix the fault your working on, what justification did they have for changing it what caused the old one to fail etc..