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Even though the slave/master is new, I would bleed them and give it a try: http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/diy-answers-28/how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch-42465/
I dont have a manual for that engine, look here: http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/91578-2010-valve-clearance-specs.html
One more thing on those studs, you could be seeing stretch of the studs. Look up bolt stretch. Some bolts, especially head bolts, rod bolts or studs have to be measured for stretch, and it could be your threads are ok, but the studs are stretching. Just another thing to consider.
Would not be unheard of for a car that age to loose some refrigerant. By the way, Autozone,ys unless the ones in your area are different, do not do system testing on AC systems, you will have to find a shop or someone with a proper set of gauges to check the high and low pressures. As new and as low mileage as your car is, and this is just my advice, DO NOT let the guys at autozone or a friend talk you into just adding a can of refrigerant, especially if it has stop leak in it. Find the leak if there is one and have it fixed. You will be glad down the road if you keep the car.
Removing the egr valve wont hurt, and the gasket you can reuse. If you are in doubt, you can spray it with a light coat of silver spray paint, but even that is probably unneeded.
If I am reading your post right, you have torqued the bolts, but they are now loose. Wait on the steel seal. Try retorquing the bolts, but only go about a third, see if it holds, then go another third of the torque value. Are they holding? If not, chances are you have either stripped threads, cracks in the thread bosses, or bad bolts. Hope for bad bolts or stripped threads, new bolts or heli coils or a similiar product can get you going.
Sounds like the fuel pump is at the end of its life. If you want to do the service manual test, I posted the pdf.
Timing belt on your car is a pretty detailed job, but doable if you have the tools and inclined to do it. Details are more extensive than I can post so a service manual or alldata subscription would help you a lot.
Before you let anyone take a bunch of your money repairing the AC, even if you have to take that new alt off and have it tested, have it tested again, somewhere else. I am betting it is dragging when a load, such as the ac, is put on it.
Is this a Ferrari 360 you are working on? I never touched one, would have loved too. Did some looking, seems some cars from the factory had no marks and those that did, most Ferrari experts say that they are just starting point, you need dial indicators to do a thorough job. Might look here: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/368247-camshaft-timing-marks.html
Hope am not breaking rules linking to another forum.
Time to look at the basics. How long since a tune up, checked for vacuum leaks, checked fuel pressure, is the check engine light on, etc.
Have someone stand outside the car in a parking lot while you take off and listen from both sides. Dont rule out strut mounts and bearings.
On those, a factory ball joint wear indicator was if you where able to wiggle the grease fitting. the boot worn is another. The play you describe sounds like its well past needing replaced. You will need a ball joint press to change it. An alignment shop can straighten things up for you, even set your steering wheel straight.