Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Last time I had a bleeder that wouldn’t come out, I did not have to use heat. I got out a six point socket, put a thin shop rag in there to help reduce slip, and hooked it up to a 12′ breaker bar. I then tightened it a little, then pulled sharply and it broke loose. I did not use any penetrating oil. Bright side was I was able to reuse bleeder after soaking it in methylated spirits and cleaning the threads using a home made thread chaser.. Yes, the bleeder worked after I replaced it.
Hmm I’ll consider it. I realized I didn’t explain my issue accurately so I’ll try again: The master cylinder resevoir has a lip that doesn’t allow my to extract the fluid from the resevoir. But after re-watching the video it seems I can just bleed the brakes until the resevoir starts to empty, then add more and do it until the fluid comes out clear. I looked at the resevoir and didn’t see any way to disconnect the line from the resevoir without getting fluid everywhere, which I don’t want.
I usually deal with difficult ones like this: After a few attempts to targeted fix the issue, I’ll give the customer two choices: Take your junk somewhere else, or I’ll have to replace the entire system involved. I remember this one guy who came in every other week with slow leaks in his tires. He had an old 1990s Impala SS and he had these ugly big alloy wheels on it, Made in China, no less, and he’d come in with bent rims or corrosion on the bead, or his tires would be full of Fix-A-Flat eating away at the aluminium. Finally after we tried to fix the issues for a few weeks, my manager gave me permission to advise the service advisor that we would no longer work on this car and its wheels unless he elected to get new OEM rims. He of course was mad, but regardless, we fired a customer who was a serious PITA.
I would start with the KBB ‘fair’ condition and take off 20%. In the add disclose as much as you can about the problems and if you’ve fixed other issues, explain those. Tell them about any recent repairs and explain that you’re a motivated seller, with a negotiable price. Don’t let them low ball you, but its not going to be worth but so much with the issues you cited.
Warning: I’m not a body guy so I may be off track here, but wouldn’t it have made sense to tack weld the frame connectors with the car’s suspension loaded and then lift it up to finish the job? I would think that doing it on the lift may have locked the chassis into a flexed position, since this is a unibody car and not a full frame one.
I liked seeing this video as it was informative even if I’ve never owned a Contour. I guess you’re finding Jeff’s Contour easier than Barbara’s Town & Country.
Just a critique, I think Jeff’s Contour is a lot more in the worth fixing category than cars like Barbara’s T&C. I don’t mean he’s more deserving, I just mean I doubt his car is going to require comebacks.