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Nitrogen in car tires was originally because of Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems as far as I am aware. The reason was moisture was getting into the electronics and if that didn’t ruin it when it froze it definitely did. In car tires it might might make them last longer. While Oxygen is a corrosive thing, the lack of moisture in N2 can cause dry rotting also so there are pros and cons to everything. N2 I can see being important in extremes high temp, low temp, high speed, and heavy loads other then that most people will do just fine with shop air. If you have a TPMS system look in your car user guide and or online it will let you know if it needs to be nitrogen. Also most shop air has very little compressor oil as for moisture some shops drain their system daily or twice daily or have water/oil separators at the compressor others let water run through your air tools (Not Good).
I am a big rig mechanic. I had a guy come in and tell me his hvac isnt working just add more refrigerant. Well after replacing his compressor (bad clutch), high pressure switch, 1 high pressure line, an accumulator dryer, 1 hvac door actuator, the blower motor, Linear Power Module (LPM) for the hvac blower, both air filters, cleaning the permanent air filters, and resealing the leak that caused the blower and LPM to be rusted. He came back and told me I made his hvac too cold and he can’t go down the road with it on low as it freezes him out and I must fix it.
Had a guy come in with a very clean truck. I started working on it and I am like I am going to have to thank this guy and make sure I keep it clean. I always love to appease these guys as it is a rarity to have an immaculate truck and it makes my life soo much easier. Had to pull up the floor and fix an exhaust pipe leak on the back of the engine. After replacing the bad pipe and installing new gaskets we have to run a regen and burn out all the soot and check for exhaust leaks. He comes back while the truck is running a 2k rpms tries to get in it and leave. Then starts flipping out about his fuel mileage, how I got his truck dirty, etc. I am said “Dude, I am not even done working on it.” I clean out his truck as planned but, he gets a free refuel after we fix the truck so his fuel mileage is unaffected.
I am a big rig mechanic. I had a guy come in and tell me his hvac isnt working just add more refrigerant. Well after replacing his compressor (bad clutch), high pressure switch, 1 high pressure line, an accumulator dryer, 1 hvac door actuator, the blower motor, Linear Power Module (LPM) for the hvac blower, both air filters, cleaning the permanent air filters, and resealing the leak that caused the blower and LPM to be rusted. He came back and told me I made his hvac too cold and he can’t go down the road with it on low as it freezes him out and I must fix it.
Had a guy come in with a very clean truck. I started working on it and I am like I am going to have to thank this guy and make sure I keep it clean. I always love to appease these guys as it is a rarity to have an immaculate truck and it makes my life soo much easier. Had to pull up the floor and fix an exhaust pipe leak on the back of the engine. After replacing the bad pipe and installing new gaskets we have to run a regen and burn out all the soot and check for exhaust leaks. He comes back while the truck is running a 2k rpms tries to get in it and leave. Then starts flipping out about his fuel mileage, how I got his truck dirty, etc. I am said “Dude, I am not even done working on it.” I clean out his truck as planned but, he gets a free refuel after we fix the truck so his fuel mileage is unaffected.
Unless you cannot keep downward force with another hand those special shallow sockets are a waste of money in my opinion we use the paper inside a canister style on big rigs and I did pms for months on end I got away with a regular socket you just have to be careful. I do agree later on he will need torx, e-torx, allens. Remember torx can fit into allen though the sizes do not correlate. Also an apolstry tool is good for later but, as for just starting out until he gets to brakes he is probably not going to need allen or torx. You are going to need all three types of those aka L key, sockets, and T-handles. But, once again that is later on. Basically buy the tools as you need them or when good sales go on aka 75-90 dollars off. If you try to get ahead of the game you will not have a paycheck the tool man will. If you need torx sockets the 1/2″ and 1/4″ drive proffesional impact ones from Harbor Freight hold up pretty well for me. When you get to those style bolt and scre heads make sure you are as far down into the head as possible clean the head out with a wire brush if need be its a lot better to take 15 ssecs then to try and remove a stripped one.
Unless you cannot keep downward force with another hand those special shallow sockets are a waste of money in my opinion we use the paper inside a canister style on big rigs and I did pms for months on end I got away with a regular socket you just have to be careful. I do agree later on he will need torx, e-torx, allens. Remember torx can fit into allen though the sizes do not correlate. Also an apolstry tool is good for later but, as for just starting out until he gets to brakes he is probably not going to need allen or torx. You are going to need all three types of those aka L key, sockets, and T-handles. But, once again that is later on. Basically buy the tools as you need them or when good sales go on aka 75-90 dollars off. If you try to get ahead of the game you will not have a paycheck the tool man will. If you need torx sockets the 1/2″ and 1/4″ drive proffesional impact ones from Harbor Freight hold up pretty well for me. When you get to those style bolt and scre heads make sure you are as far down into the head as possible clean the head out with a wire brush if need be its a lot better to take 15 ssecs then to try and remove a stripped one.
Sorry forgot brightly colored flashlight and pocket expandable magnet. You are going to drop things these are very helpful for retrieving them.
Sorry forgot brightly colored flashlight and pocket expandable magnet. You are going to drop things these are very helpful for retrieving them.
Mater Tech will get his choice of what to do and most of the work other people will mess up or have already fubar’d.
A Tech: Normally takes at least 5 yrs experience to get to this point. Gets the complicated jobs normally engine related issues etc.
B-Tech: Normally takes 2-3 yrs experience gets the work that is kinda complicated and work most of the mechanics don’t want.
C-Tech: Normally takes 1-2 yrs all the stupid things that are slightly complicated ie brakes.
PM/PDI Tech: Normally takes 1 yr. Everyone hates this guy because his work is cake and once proficient normally can beat standard repair times.
Lube Tech: Normally schooling/slight experience. Does all the dirty work gets covered in everything.
Wash boy: Normally Entry level/no experience. You get to clean and detail cars. Clean the shop etc. Then sometimes watch the techs and learn.
That is the levels and how big wigs think the business works. Levels are normally based off of online/school training, experience, and certifications. Normally you have techs that are fast, slow, methodical, and specialists. Fast techs get put on the fast turn over stuff. Slow techs get put on the stuff no one ever makes time on. Methodical techs deal with everyone’s screw ups and the really weird stuff. Specialists get the things they do well: hvac, engines, electrical, and transmissions. That is normally how it works regardless of tech level.
Mater Tech will get his choice of what to do and most of the work other people will mess up or have already fubar’d.
A Tech: Normally takes at least 5 yrs experience to get to this point. Gets the complicated jobs normally engine related issues etc.
B-Tech: Normally takes 2-3 yrs experience gets the work that is kinda complicated and work most of the mechanics don’t want.
C-Tech: Normally takes 1-2 yrs all the stupid things that are slightly complicated ie brakes.
PM/PDI Tech: Normally takes 1 yr. Everyone hates this guy because his work is cake and once proficient normally can beat standard repair times.
Lube Tech: Normally schooling/slight experience. Does all the dirty work gets covered in everything.
Wash boy: Normally Entry level/no experience. You get to clean and detail cars. Clean the shop etc. Then sometimes watch the techs and learn.
That is the levels and how big wigs think the business works. Levels are normally based off of online/school training, experience, and certifications. Normally you have techs that are fast, slow, methodical, and specialists. Fast techs get put on the fast turn over stuff. Slow techs get put on the stuff no one ever makes time on. Methodical techs deal with everyone’s screw ups and the really weird stuff. Specialists get the things they do well: hvac, engines, electrical, and transmissions. That is normally how it works regardless of tech level.
Tools you will need as an entry level tech:
Fine tooth Ratchets: 1/4″,3/8″,1/2″ (3/8″ and 1/2″ in Flex if possible Expert, Snap-On, Gearwrench)
Sockets/adapters/Extensions/Universals to Match: 8mm-22mm, 1/4″-1″ (Impact over chrome if you can afford. Rarely will the thinner chrome sockets be needed starting off Grey Pnuematic or “Craftsman USA Made only” for starting out)
Decent Brand Normal Combination Wrenches: 8mm-22mm, 1/4″-1″ (Do not get sets that skip sizes. Gearwrench)
1/2″ Breaker Bar. (Craftsman is normally good and cheap)
1/2″ Impact (A good brand: Ingersol Rand, Air Cat, Snap-On)
Screwdriver Set (with Torx if you can afford. Craftsman)
Oil Filter Wrenches Big and Small Riveted plier style. Harbor Freight (Buy Blue Point FWA62121A if you do a lot of oil changes)
Creeper a cheap one will do to start. (You will need a different one in about 6 months)
A cheap pick set. Harbor Freight or Craftsman if you can afford (Buy a tool truck brand when you can)
A wire brush set. Cheap set is fine. (You’ll need this for batteries)
A cheap valve stem removal tool. I used a slimez brand from pepboys it is cheap.
A cheap dual chuck tire inflator without gauge and a separate tire gauge (Then buy a tool truck one when you can)
A set of decent brand pliers: needle nose, regular, slip joint (Channel Lock, Knipex, Klien)
A good pair of diagonal side cutters (Knipex)
1 pair of Vise Grips 7wr Original with curved jaws
1 chisel of decent quality (Craftsman or better)
A good prybar set. (Craftsman professional driving head or Mayhew driving head available @ Home Depot)
A good brand hammer: Ballpeen or 3lb Black Smith (Suggest hickory handle Vaughan, Estwing, Plumb, Craftsman)
A good engraver or punch set (Put your initials on your tools. It is better/easier to start now)
A place to keep all your tools.Most techs/mechanics start with craftsman brand. They are not the best and will not last against constant abuse aka as a professional tool. You will end up having to replace them multiple times but, normally are a good starting point and then end up at home (side work 🙂 ) when you replace with good brands. For combination wrenches the open end will be almost useless on craftsman wrenches; though they worked for me starting out mine were made in the usa. Most companies including craftsman/sears have discounts for students use them. The brands I state are suggestions based on limited funds if funds are unlimited buy the best money can buy you. The tools listed above will get you through tire, battery, light bulb and most fluid changes. It will also give you most of the stuff you will need for brake changes. The chisel and driving end prybars are for removing very stubborn oil filters (always ask for help before using them) I was lucky starting out I had a lot of my dads old tools but, had to buy everything metric. Don’t pass up yard sales, craigs list, estate sales, farm sales and ebay. There are a lot of people that sell their older tools because they gave up, got better ones, retired, and/or a family member passed away. These are perfect opportunities to pick up older normally better quality hand tools. I would steer clear of used anything electrically or air driven though.
Tools you will need as an entry level tech:
Fine tooth Ratchets: 1/4″,3/8″,1/2″ (3/8″ and 1/2″ in Flex if possible Expert, Snap-On, Gearwrench)
Sockets/adapters/Extensions/Universals to Match: 8mm-22mm, 1/4″-1″ (Impact over chrome if you can afford. Rarely will the thinner chrome sockets be needed starting off Grey Pnuematic or “Craftsman USA Made only” for starting out)
Decent Brand Normal Combination Wrenches: 8mm-22mm, 1/4″-1″ (Do not get sets that skip sizes. Gearwrench)
1/2″ Breaker Bar. (Craftsman is normally good and cheap)
1/2″ Impact (A good brand: Ingersol Rand, Air Cat, Snap-On)
Screwdriver Set (with Torx if you can afford. Craftsman)
Oil Filter Wrenches Big and Small Riveted plier style. Harbor Freight (Buy Blue Point FWA62121A if you do a lot of oil changes)
Creeper a cheap one will do to start. (You will need a different one in about 6 months)
A cheap pick set. Harbor Freight or Craftsman if you can afford (Buy a tool truck brand when you can)
A wire brush set. Cheap set is fine. (You’ll need this for batteries)
A cheap valve stem removal tool. I used a slimez brand from pepboys it is cheap.
A cheap dual chuck tire inflator without gauge and a separate tire gauge (Then buy a tool truck one when you can)
A set of decent brand pliers: needle nose, regular, slip joint (Channel Lock, Knipex, Klien)
A good pair of diagonal side cutters (Knipex)
1 pair of Vise Grips 7wr Original with curved jaws
1 chisel of decent quality (Craftsman or better)
A good prybar set. (Craftsman professional driving head or Mayhew driving head available @ Home Depot)
A good brand hammer: Ballpeen or 3lb Black Smith (Suggest hickory handle Vaughan, Estwing, Plumb, Craftsman)
A good engraver or punch set (Put your initials on your tools. It is better/easier to start now)
A place to keep all your tools.Most techs/mechanics start with craftsman brand. They are not the best and will not last against constant abuse aka as a professional tool. You will end up having to replace them multiple times but, normally are a good starting point and then end up at home (side work 🙂 ) when you replace with good brands. For combination wrenches the open end will be almost useless on craftsman wrenches; though they worked for me starting out mine were made in the usa. Most companies including craftsman/sears have discounts for students use them. The brands I state are suggestions based on limited funds if funds are unlimited buy the best money can buy you. The tools listed above will get you through tire, battery, light bulb and most fluid changes. It will also give you most of the stuff you will need for brake changes. The chisel and driving end prybars are for removing very stubborn oil filters (always ask for help before using them) I was lucky starting out I had a lot of my dads old tools but, had to buy everything metric. Don’t pass up yard sales, craigs list, estate sales, farm sales and ebay. There are a lot of people that sell their older tools because they gave up, got better ones, retired, and/or a family member passed away. These are perfect opportunities to pick up older normally better quality hand tools. I would steer clear of used anything electrically or air driven though.
Most places supply them to their techs. If not you can normally buy them off the tools trucks for really cheap and you just take a guys air tool in with you. Everywhere uses different styles and types and you have to be careful cause some are short shank some are long some are wide flare some are short. Like I said it is normally supplied to you and you can normally borrow one from an older techs spare tools till you get one. If you are looking to use around the house you can get them from pepboys the red colored ones are the style most used but, I wouldn’t buy if you are going to work at a place. Also if you are looking for swivels do not get the ball type get a tool truck brand with the two rectangles.
Most places supply them to their techs. If not you can normally buy them off the tools trucks for really cheap and you just take a guys air tool in with you. Everywhere uses different styles and types and you have to be careful cause some are short shank some are long some are wide flare some are short. Like I said it is normally supplied to you and you can normally borrow one from an older techs spare tools till you get one. If you are looking to use around the house you can get them from pepboys the red colored ones are the style most used but, I wouldn’t buy if you are going to work at a place. Also if you are looking for swivels do not get the ball type get a tool truck brand with the two rectangles.
I am a diesel mechanic I own just about every brand out there. My theory is get the tool that works will last and does its main job well. Snobbery is for people who are too lazy to put in the proper time to do research and warranty their tools when they break. Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell all it is, is a name. Over 3/4 of their tools are made by someone else and then branded with their name. Sometimes they do make requirements more stringent so you get a better quality tool and I do mean sometimes aka 15-20% of the time. So a large majority of the time you are buying another brands tool with just their name and paying that premium. Gear Wrench makes all the major tool brands ratcheting mechanisms for ratcheting box end wrenches. Kline makes the diagonal cutters for Snap-On. So on and so forth. If you are smart you can look at stamping indentations and also tool numbers and buy the original manufacturers tool and save normally 30-40% of the price. This is precisely what I do. I own very few tool truck brand tools and the ones I do own are normally for good reason aka they are made with those more stringent requirements and/or they break all the time regardless of the manufacturer. The other thing is most tool trucks will warranty the original manufacturers stuff if that is the manufacturer that makes that tool for them. A perfect example is gearwrench. The other thing is most manufacturers make their brand better then the tool truck brand unless requirements are higher or they must compete with other lower priced items. The brands and the tool truck salesman are just middle men.
I have HF, craftsman, expert, gp, channellock, snap-on, matco, mac, klien, wilde, otc, atd, knipex, etc, etc. Buy the best you can afford for the price and look at how its made, how it feels, How the tool will be used and what brand pros use and why. Look at the stamped markings and compare to the big boys and buy the original manufacturers version and you will save 10s of thousands of dollars. People always comment i have so many tools but, they have never heard of some of the brands and that is because people are too lazy to do research. I have 10k into my tool atm and I have almost everything I need I am just starting to get to the big ticket items 3/4in air impact, impacting air ratchets, ratcheting flex, stubby wrenches, 3/4in impact socket sets and accessories, tap and die sets, and yet i have spent far far less and have tools that constantly get borrowed. If you are going to buy a tool take the time and do the research 1-2 hrs of your time will save you 40-50 bucks on average.
I am a diesel mechanic I own just about every brand out there. My theory is get the tool that works will last and does its main job well. Snobbery is for people who are too lazy to put in the proper time to do research and warranty their tools when they break. Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell all it is, is a name. Over 3/4 of their tools are made by someone else and then branded with their name. Sometimes they do make requirements more stringent so you get a better quality tool and I do mean sometimes aka 15-20% of the time. So a large majority of the time you are buying another brands tool with just their name and paying that premium. Gear Wrench makes all the major tool brands ratcheting mechanisms for ratcheting box end wrenches. Kline makes the diagonal cutters for Snap-On. So on and so forth. If you are smart you can look at stamping indentations and also tool numbers and buy the original manufacturers tool and save normally 30-40% of the price. This is precisely what I do. I own very few tool truck brand tools and the ones I do own are normally for good reason aka they are made with those more stringent requirements and/or they break all the time regardless of the manufacturer. The other thing is most tool trucks will warranty the original manufacturers stuff if that is the manufacturer that makes that tool for them. A perfect example is gearwrench. The other thing is most manufacturers make their brand better then the tool truck brand unless requirements are higher or they must compete with other lower priced items. The brands and the tool truck salesman are just middle men.
I have HF, craftsman, expert, gp, channellock, snap-on, matco, mac, klien, wilde, otc, atd, knipex, etc, etc. Buy the best you can afford for the price and look at how its made, how it feels, How the tool will be used and what brand pros use and why. Look at the stamped markings and compare to the big boys and buy the original manufacturers version and you will save 10s of thousands of dollars. People always comment i have so many tools but, they have never heard of some of the brands and that is because people are too lazy to do research. I have 10k into my tool atm and I have almost everything I need I am just starting to get to the big ticket items 3/4in air impact, impacting air ratchets, ratcheting flex, stubby wrenches, 3/4in impact socket sets and accessories, tap and die sets, and yet i have spent far far less and have tools that constantly get borrowed. If you are going to buy a tool take the time and do the research 1-2 hrs of your time will save you 40-50 bucks on average.