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hi there, I actually happen to own a group on facebook for honda pilot owners and I know a few people in the group have been experiencing a similar issue with this. I believe you’re on the right track for the resistor, I forget exactly what the fix is though so I don’t wanna guess but it is a common problem I know that. I can certainly ask some of the members in my group about this issue and get back to you on what they say. I know Eric has worked on Hondas for many years now and he would probably be able to help you figure out what it is too. If you want you can join my group on facebook it’s called “Honda Pilot Owners” and we’ll definitely be able to help you out should you have any future questions regarding your pilot. Stay Dirty.
Michael Sackstein
hi there, I actually happen to own a group on facebook for honda pilot owners and I know a few people in the group have been experiencing a similar issue with this. I believe you’re on the right track for the resistor, I forget exactly what the fix is though so I don’t wanna guess but it is a common problem I know that. I can certainly ask some of the members in my group about this issue and get back to you on what they say. I know Eric has worked on Hondas for many years now and he would probably be able to help you figure out what it is too. If you want you can join my group on facebook it’s called “Honda Pilot Owners” and we’ll definitely be able to help you out should you have any future questions regarding your pilot. Stay Dirty.
Michael Sackstein
different vehicles have different procedures for bleeding out the cooling systems. depending on the year of your GM I think you may actually need some special equipment to bleed the system out properly. I’m not entirely sure if this is correct or not but I know on most modern vehicles like to bleed out the brakes properly you need a dealer level scan tool, sounds crazy but that’s how they’re making them now. anyways, you may wanna check with the manufacturer about what the proper procedure is for your vehicle and I’m sure they could tell you. I know Eric has written extensive articles on many different topics, I believe I saw one about bleeding out cooling systems, so you may wanna check that out also. good luck
different vehicles have different procedures for bleeding out the cooling systems. depending on the year of your GM I think you may actually need some special equipment to bleed the system out properly. I’m not entirely sure if this is correct or not but I know on most modern vehicles like to bleed out the brakes properly you need a dealer level scan tool, sounds crazy but that’s how they’re making them now. anyways, you may wanna check with the manufacturer about what the proper procedure is for your vehicle and I’m sure they could tell you. I know Eric has written extensive articles on many different topics, I believe I saw one about bleeding out cooling systems, so you may wanna check that out also. good luck
there is a bleeder valve on most hondas I believe it’s towards the passenger side over by the headlight. the fans get removed and swapped over to the new radiator after you take it out. just as a tip I might also advise replacing the thermostat, hoses, hose clamps & radiator cap. if you’re on a budget then you can probably just get by with the upper radiator hose since that one tends to fail more than the lower one does. now it’s not absolutely necessary that you replace everything that’s in there but it’s also not a bad idea as it will reduce the chances of anything else going bad in the near future. also while you’re in there it’s a good time to back flush the engine block out with water. that’s very easy to do. you said you were a retired mechanic so it’s really not that much different than any other car. good luck and keep us posted.
there is a bleeder valve on most hondas I believe it’s towards the passenger side over by the headlight. the fans get removed and swapped over to the new radiator after you take it out. just as a tip I might also advise replacing the thermostat, hoses, hose clamps & radiator cap. if you’re on a budget then you can probably just get by with the upper radiator hose since that one tends to fail more than the lower one does. now it’s not absolutely necessary that you replace everything that’s in there but it’s also not a bad idea as it will reduce the chances of anything else going bad in the near future. also while you’re in there it’s a good time to back flush the engine block out with water. that’s very easy to do. you said you were a retired mechanic so it’s really not that much different than any other car. good luck and keep us posted.
sounds like whoever rebuilt it didn’t do a very good job. transmissions should really only be rebuilt by transmission specialists for that very reason. now in terms of your particular vehicle personally I would not replace the transmission in that vehicle as they aren’t worth all that much and the trannys honestly aren’t that great to begin with. but if you really like the car and wanna fix it then your best bet would be to get a refurbished transmission. those ones really work the best if any.
sounds like whoever rebuilt it didn’t do a very good job. transmissions should really only be rebuilt by transmission specialists for that very reason. now in terms of your particular vehicle personally I would not replace the transmission in that vehicle as they aren’t worth all that much and the trannys honestly aren’t that great to begin with. but if you really like the car and wanna fix it then your best bet would be to get a refurbished transmission. those ones really work the best if any.
well I doubt it’s the immobilizer system because the vehicle does start up just kinda hiccups before it starts. I’m wondering if cleaning the fuel injectors would make a difference. Scotty Kilmer said that cleaning them would eliminate any carbon build up on the valves. as for adjusting them, they sound fine right now so I’m just gonna leave them alone. like you said it’s better not to make things more complicated. I do change my oil on a regular basis and have since we bought the car new in 2006, so I don’t suspect they are seized. I do also think it could have something to do with the ignition switch. I just had the fuel system cleaned last summer, not the injectors but the system. that didn’t resolve the issue so I’m not sure that cleaning the injectors will do so.
I am well aware of immobilizer systems being proprietary. LOL Scotty Kilmer vents about that all the time in his videos, saying it’s the bane of his existence as a mechanic. Unfortunately by law the only people who can work on those are dealerships and bonded locksmiths. fortunately I haven’t had problems with that yet and certainly hope I never do.
well I doubt it’s the immobilizer system because the vehicle does start up just kinda hiccups before it starts. I’m wondering if cleaning the fuel injectors would make a difference. Scotty Kilmer said that cleaning them would eliminate any carbon build up on the valves. as for adjusting them, they sound fine right now so I’m just gonna leave them alone. like you said it’s better not to make things more complicated. I do change my oil on a regular basis and have since we bought the car new in 2006, so I don’t suspect they are seized. I do also think it could have something to do with the ignition switch. I just had the fuel system cleaned last summer, not the injectors but the system. that didn’t resolve the issue so I’m not sure that cleaning the injectors will do so.
I am well aware of immobilizer systems being proprietary. LOL Scotty Kilmer vents about that all the time in his videos, saying it’s the bane of his existence as a mechanic. Unfortunately by law the only people who can work on those are dealerships and bonded locksmiths. fortunately I haven’t had problems with that yet and certainly hope I never do.
Hey Eric, that starting issue came back again. though the car cranks perfectly fine it just doesn’t always kick over like it should. I had the fuel system cleaned so I don’t suppose it could be dirty fuel injectors. I’m wondering if it could mean the ignition coils are going bad. and from what I see it looks like Hondas don’t have a unique set up in that they don’t have a distributor w/rotor & cap. or at least I think that’s the case. I know it’s the same set up as that 6 cylinder Acura TL which you did the valve adjustment on. Anyways, I wanted to know if there’s any way to tell if these are going bad. I tried unscrewing them from the valve cover to have a look and of course the bolts were kind of hopelessly seized, I tried PB blaster but that didn’t work so I just left it alone because I didn’t want to strip them out. do you have any second thoughts?
Hey Eric, that starting issue came back again. though the car cranks perfectly fine it just doesn’t always kick over like it should. I had the fuel system cleaned so I don’t suppose it could be dirty fuel injectors. I’m wondering if it could mean the ignition coils are going bad. and from what I see it looks like Hondas don’t have a unique set up in that they don’t have a distributor w/rotor & cap. or at least I think that’s the case. I know it’s the same set up as that 6 cylinder Acura TL which you did the valve adjustment on. Anyways, I wanted to know if there’s any way to tell if these are going bad. I tried unscrewing them from the valve cover to have a look and of course the bolts were kind of hopelessly seized, I tried PB blaster but that didn’t work so I just left it alone because I didn’t want to strip them out. do you have any second thoughts?
that was one of the worst designs they ever made on those Chevy Astro vans, and I’m told that blazers aren’t much different either. basically you have to take apart the entire manifold which in that van is inside the car in order to change out the spider injectors. Those things always go bad on those vans, I’ve heard lots of horror stories about that. My advice is while you’re in there replace everything, if you’re not doing it to help yourself do it to help the customer. Because something else is always bound to fail inside there and when it does you have to go through this entire procedure again.
that was one of the worst designs they ever made on those Chevy Astro vans, and I’m told that blazers aren’t much different either. basically you have to take apart the entire manifold which in that van is inside the car in order to change out the spider injectors. Those things always go bad on those vans, I’ve heard lots of horror stories about that. My advice is while you’re in there replace everything, if you’re not doing it to help yourself do it to help the customer. Because something else is always bound to fail inside there and when it does you have to go through this entire procedure again.
Yep, I saw the location of it when the battery was being replaced. The starter is to the left of the battery tray in front of a couple radiator hoses. Also thank you for answering my question in the discussion this evening. The aftermarket I was considering getting is sold online by a place called FCP import. However, they do have a location about 45 minutes away from me in Milford, CT where I can go pick it up which I may very well do since I get my parents cars serviced up in Milford. The one that they sell is a denso radiator which I guess is practically identical to the oem and it’s about $194. The other one I saw was on rockauto.com for about $152. although the FCP one is a bit more I think I like the fact that I can pick it up at their location and from what I see it seems like a good quality radiator. Will keep you posted!