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I think you are over thinking this.
First of all, don’t go by what pressure the tire says as it is just letting you know the maximum safe pressure. The necessary tire pressure for your vehicle (light or loaded) is written in the owners manual or often on a sticker at the driver side door frame. 23PSI sounds low as most cars I know run ~28-34 PSI, but I don’t know you particular model and if it says 23 PSI make it in that ballpark. 35 PSI is too much and you tire looks overinflated.If for some reason you can’t find the correct pressure yourself or at a dealer, put in ~17 PSI, look at the tire and note how much bulging you have. Look at the picture you linked to. If it looks just a little under inflated, drive a short trip and see how it feels. Put in more air and try again. Under inflation will feel plush (comfortable some thinks), but will cause the car to roll/float on turns like off or on ramps. Too much air will make the tire contact on the middle and not at the sides. The car feels stiff and uncomfortable and people usually go under inflated and not overinflated for this reason.
If you cant judge how it feels, grap some fluor and dab it on the tire surface. Driver a few hundred yards and inspect where the flour is worn off. This will make it easy to tell if you are riding the shoulders (severely under inflated) or the middle of the tire (overinflated).
But as I said, don’t over think it as millions of cars drive around with wrong tire pressure all the time without accidents. Low pressure is bad for fuel economy and rainy weather and high pressure is primarily bad for comfort and suspension longevity. Most likely you will not experience anything else than slightly increased tirewear if you don’t get it exactly right.
I would still make sure it was right if it was me though 😉If you are unsure if they are fitted correctly, pictures of the tires on your car would help a lot.
P.s. The guy you bought the car from was a cheap bastard ;D. Using 4 different tires like that is unsafe and not recommended! As different tires distribute water differently and have different traction it can screw up your wet and winter driving, ABS and ECS. I know people on a budget do this or swap in pairs, I was on a budget too once. As a motorcycle driver I can tell you that tires and brakes should always be in pristine condition. The rest is just a bonus 🙂 (driving is a luxury you can live without, stopping isn’t).
I think you are over thinking this.
First of all, don’t go by what pressure the tire says as it is just letting you know the maximum safe pressure. The necessary tire pressure for your vehicle (light or loaded) is written in the owners manual or often on a sticker at the driver side door frame. 23PSI sounds low as most cars I know run ~28-34 PSI, but I don’t know you particular model and if it says 23 PSI make it in that ballpark. 35 PSI is too much and you tire looks overinflated.If for some reason you can’t find the correct pressure yourself or at a dealer, put in ~17 PSI, look at the tire and note how much bulging you have. Look at the picture you linked to. If it looks just a little under inflated, drive a short trip and see how it feels. Put in more air and try again. Under inflation will feel plush (comfortable some thinks), but will cause the car to roll/float on turns like off or on ramps. Too much air will make the tire contact on the middle and not at the sides. The car feels stiff and uncomfortable and people usually go under inflated and not overinflated for this reason.
If you cant judge how it feels, grap some fluor and dab it on the tire surface. Driver a few hundred yards and inspect where the flour is worn off. This will make it easy to tell if you are riding the shoulders (severely under inflated) or the middle of the tire (overinflated).
But as I said, don’t over think it as millions of cars drive around with wrong tire pressure all the time without accidents. Low pressure is bad for fuel economy and rainy weather and high pressure is primarily bad for comfort and suspension longevity. Most likely you will not experience anything else than slightly increased tirewear if you don’t get it exactly right.
I would still make sure it was right if it was me though 😉If you are unsure if they are fitted correctly, pictures of the tires on your car would help a lot.
P.s. The guy you bought the car from was a cheap bastard ;D. Using 4 different tires like that is unsafe and not recommended! As different tires distribute water differently and have different traction it can screw up your wet and winter driving, ABS and ECS. I know people on a budget do this or swap in pairs, I was on a budget too once. As a motorcycle driver I can tell you that tires and brakes should always be in pristine condition. The rest is just a bonus 🙂 (driving is a luxury you can live without, stopping isn’t).
Many cars have small triangular snippets cut out if you follow where the body is spot welded at the bottom of the car. Many cars use these as indicators for lift points and you lift here as they are reinforced from factory. I’ve seen (and done) people lift directly on these pinch welds which is not recommended. You can get a rubber adapter for your jack which has a slid in it for the body ridge. If you lift on the thin weld you run the risk of bending something as the car shifts sideways when jacked. After hearing loud cracks on my new car the first time it was on a lift using those pinch point, but no adapter, I am reluctant to use them (wasn’t me, went to a mom and pap shop). I think you run the risk of breaking the galvanization on the inside creating premature corrosion.
The shop usually lifts on the frame using special pegs that go into the frame or by the normal discs you see on a jack.
Safe lifting points are the frame and load carrying things as they normally carry the weight of the car. The frame usually looks like a H made of roughly 2×2″ square steel tubes. Not a native English speaker so I don’t know the correct terms of the lift points at the wheels of the top of my head sry.
BTW. remember to block the tires with something (wood, large rocks or whatever you have) and engage p-brake and gear depending on what you are doing.
Many cars have small triangular snippets cut out if you follow where the body is spot welded at the bottom of the car. Many cars use these as indicators for lift points and you lift here as they are reinforced from factory. I’ve seen (and done) people lift directly on these pinch welds which is not recommended. You can get a rubber adapter for your jack which has a slid in it for the body ridge. If you lift on the thin weld you run the risk of bending something as the car shifts sideways when jacked. After hearing loud cracks on my new car the first time it was on a lift using those pinch point, but no adapter, I am reluctant to use them (wasn’t me, went to a mom and pap shop). I think you run the risk of breaking the galvanization on the inside creating premature corrosion.
The shop usually lifts on the frame using special pegs that go into the frame or by the normal discs you see on a jack.
Safe lifting points are the frame and load carrying things as they normally carry the weight of the car. The frame usually looks like a H made of roughly 2×2″ square steel tubes. Not a native English speaker so I don’t know the correct terms of the lift points at the wheels of the top of my head sry.
BTW. remember to block the tires with something (wood, large rocks or whatever you have) and engage p-brake and gear depending on what you are doing.
I’ve been told that too much oil could increase the oil pressure and thereby blow a gasket? Is that correct?