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There was this middle aged gentleman that came into the shop the other day. Basic oil change, and inspection. Later he returns saying that we messed up his car, and made a strange light illuminate on his dash. The service writer grabs me during a break in the action to inspect the car. What do I see when I check his dash? That “strange light” he was talking about was the LOW FUEL LIGHT. Seriously?
Needless to say I was flabbergasted that this man did not know what that meant. Am I really going to have to deal with people my whole career that have such a low level of common sense? Normally I would laugh, but the whole situation just made me shake my head. Also, why didn’t the service writer check the dash himself? It happened just this Monday and I still can’t believe what I experienced 3 days ago. The service writer and myself just stood their with our mouths open after that customer left. We even had to ask each other if that really just happened.
[quote=”Fopeano” post=121895]Good to hear, dude. Make sure to stick around, and if you need any more advice, we’ll do our best.[/quote]
I definitely will, you guys are definitely a treasure trove of information. Your thread on how to increase productivity is worth its weight in gold.[quote=”Fopeano” post=121895]Good to hear, dude. Make sure to stick around, and if you need any more advice, we’ll do our best.[/quote]
I definitely will, you guys are definitely a treasure trove of information. Your thread on how to increase productivity is worth its weight in gold.[quote=”MDK22″ post=121424]First off just because you have manufacturer training doesn’t mean those shops are hiring. Also if they are close the the location of the manufacturer training you would need to beat everyone in the class in grades and work experience. With that being said you want a place/brand that encourages training and the more the better. Also you want a shop that understands you will need a mentor.
If I were you I would go after the cars that are built the simplest are made to be taken part in somewhat of a logical fashion and have good Standard Repair Times aka Warranty Book Times. When you work at a dealership anywhere from 20-80% of your work is warranty and it is normally closer to 50-60%. You will want feasible Warranty Book Times. Are they going to tell you what they are probably not. So you need to ask around and find out.
After about 2 yrs of working on them you will know where your brands line up against the competition and you will also more then likely not care what you are working on that that point.[/quote]
You have to be a part of the dealership first in order to go into the program. Throughout the two years you work at the dealership and go to school at the same time. Right now I’m scouting dealerships and the awesome college instructors are helping me find a job. Only certain dealerships do the program, right now I got an interview lined up with a Lexus, and Chrysler dealership.[quote=”MDK22″ post=121424]First off just because you have manufacturer training doesn’t mean those shops are hiring. Also if they are close the the location of the manufacturer training you would need to beat everyone in the class in grades and work experience. With that being said you want a place/brand that encourages training and the more the better. Also you want a shop that understands you will need a mentor.
If I were you I would go after the cars that are built the simplest are made to be taken part in somewhat of a logical fashion and have good Standard Repair Times aka Warranty Book Times. When you work at a dealership anywhere from 20-80% of your work is warranty and it is normally closer to 50-60%. You will want feasible Warranty Book Times. Are they going to tell you what they are probably not. So you need to ask around and find out.
After about 2 yrs of working on them you will know where your brands line up against the competition and you will also more then likely not care what you are working on that that point.[/quote]
You have to be a part of the dealership first in order to go into the program. Throughout the two years you work at the dealership and go to school at the same time. Right now I’m scouting dealerships and the awesome college instructors are helping me find a job. Only certain dealerships do the program, right now I got an interview lined up with a Lexus, and Chrysler dealership.[quote=”Fopeano” post=121281]I would go Toyota or Honda, but mainly because I hate working on domestics. Other side of it is that Chrysler/GM will be breaking way more, meaning there more theoretical money to be made with them. Which manufacturer’s product you respect the most and the least? If I had no choice but to work on GMs or Chryslers all day, I would quit the business to get away from that. I’ve always sought automotive employment based on what I’m going to work on. Do you like working on big rusty trucks? GM/Chrysler has tons of ’em but Honda doesn’t.
Perhaps the locations and number of dealers of those brands near home would also make a difference to you. It wouldn’t make much sense to go thru a Chrysler program and then have to move or commute an hour to the nearest dealer, for example.[/quote]
I have all of the dealerships nearby in close proximity to me. I myself have the most experience working on GM, and old, old Audi’s makes (think the old 5 cylinder quattro).That being said I don’t particularly care for newer GM vehicles, and I have also heard some bad things about how GM treats their technicians. Personally I’m leaning towards Scion, Lexus, Toyota but I’m worried I won’t be able to make money because of Toyota’s bullet proof nature. Conversely in my area there are a lot of Subaru and Toyota dealerships bundled together. Subaru’s are good cars but they are typically driven harder than Toyota’s, and they tend to have more issues (head gaskets anyone?). I would probably be working on Subaru’s if I chose one of these dealerships.
I love Jeeps, Challengers, 200s, etc but I’ve also heard that Chrysler technicians get the shaft. I also feel like working on rusty old Rams, and beat to hell jeeps would not be very fun.
As for Honda? I’m lukewarm on them, mostly because of a technician that I know — though he seems like the whiny type. 6 years in the field and he can’t break 30k, my guess is he doesn’t put in the work needed to progress.
[quote=”Fopeano” post=121281]I would go Toyota or Honda, but mainly because I hate working on domestics. Other side of it is that Chrysler/GM will be breaking way more, meaning there more theoretical money to be made with them. Which manufacturer’s product you respect the most and the least? If I had no choice but to work on GMs or Chryslers all day, I would quit the business to get away from that. I’ve always sought automotive employment based on what I’m going to work on. Do you like working on big rusty trucks? GM/Chrysler has tons of ’em but Honda doesn’t.
Perhaps the locations and number of dealers of those brands near home would also make a difference to you. It wouldn’t make much sense to go thru a Chrysler program and then have to move or commute an hour to the nearest dealer, for example.[/quote]
I have all of the dealerships nearby in close proximity to me. I myself have the most experience working on GM, and old, old Audi’s makes (think the old 5 cylinder quattro).That being said I don’t particularly care for newer GM vehicles, and I have also heard some bad things about how GM treats their technicians. Personally I’m leaning towards Scion, Lexus, Toyota but I’m worried I won’t be able to make money because of Toyota’s bullet proof nature. Conversely in my area there are a lot of Subaru and Toyota dealerships bundled together. Subaru’s are good cars but they are typically driven harder than Toyota’s, and they tend to have more issues (head gaskets anyone?). I would probably be working on Subaru’s if I chose one of these dealerships.
I love Jeeps, Challengers, 200s, etc but I’ve also heard that Chrysler technicians get the shaft. I also feel like working on rusty old Rams, and beat to hell jeeps would not be very fun.
As for Honda? I’m lukewarm on them, mostly because of a technician that I know — though he seems like the whiny type. 6 years in the field and he can’t break 30k, my guess is he doesn’t put in the work needed to progress.
[quote=”Summer_Night” post=118942]Just throwing this out there but have you changed the spark plugs since last winter?
Reason I ask is because some engines are picky about the plugs that go into it. It is usually not a problem in good weather but in the cold, that is when ALL the car’s problems start showing up.I had this 88 Reliant once and put in Bosch plugs and on one super cold night, the engine would not start. Put in cheapo plugs and it eventually started. Find out what plugs are ideal. May or may not effect anything.
That is weird that 30 degrees would cause a no-start though. Does it sound like it at least tries to fire up or just turns over as if there isn’t even a spark?[/quote]
What Summer_Night said about spark plugs is absolutely correct. Something similar happened to my 2002 GMC Sierra. It was very hard to start when it was cold or it didn’t start at all. The wrong kind of spark plugs. GM trucks really do not respond well to certain types of spark plugs, in my experience usually they don’t like platinum plugs. If you changed them recently I would put in exactly what your owner manual says to put in.[quote=”Summer_Night” post=118942]Just throwing this out there but have you changed the spark plugs since last winter?
Reason I ask is because some engines are picky about the plugs that go into it. It is usually not a problem in good weather but in the cold, that is when ALL the car’s problems start showing up.I had this 88 Reliant once and put in Bosch plugs and on one super cold night, the engine would not start. Put in cheapo plugs and it eventually started. Find out what plugs are ideal. May or may not effect anything.
That is weird that 30 degrees would cause a no-start though. Does it sound like it at least tries to fire up or just turns over as if there isn’t even a spark?[/quote]
What Summer_Night said about spark plugs is absolutely correct. Something similar happened to my 2002 GMC Sierra. It was very hard to start when it was cold or it didn’t start at all. The wrong kind of spark plugs. GM trucks really do not respond well to certain types of spark plugs, in my experience usually they don’t like platinum plugs. If you changed them recently I would put in exactly what your owner manual says to put in.[quote=”Summer_Night” post=118944]Sounds like the first order of business is finding the exact leak of the EGR. Gasket or the valve itself? Should not be too hard to find. It is the electronic EGR yes? Rock Auto shows mostly electronic but also one vacuum controlled one. Weird.
Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to erase codes.
After it has some miles on it (maybe a couple hundred) then see what codes came back.Keep in mind that ONE problem can set off several codes, since many systems work together. Once you fix the actual problem, the rest of the codes will quit showing up.
What is happening with the EGR leak is it is allowing unmetered air to enter the engine. Engines HATE unmetered air. It throws off several other things the ECM is trying to calculate for precise fuel delivery.
It would be like say you took a big swig of milk and THEN found out it was rotten. You flinch, gag, spit, make an ugly face, and maybe get pissed off.[/quote]
Hmm, so you think the EGR valve is to blame for most of those codes? That was going to be my next order of business (because its obviously a problem). I know that something is causing all of those codes, probably one or two things. Anyways, thanks for the response.[quote=”Summer_Night” post=118944]Sounds like the first order of business is finding the exact leak of the EGR. Gasket or the valve itself? Should not be too hard to find. It is the electronic EGR yes? Rock Auto shows mostly electronic but also one vacuum controlled one. Weird.
Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to erase codes.
After it has some miles on it (maybe a couple hundred) then see what codes came back.Keep in mind that ONE problem can set off several codes, since many systems work together. Once you fix the actual problem, the rest of the codes will quit showing up.
What is happening with the EGR leak is it is allowing unmetered air to enter the engine. Engines HATE unmetered air. It throws off several other things the ECM is trying to calculate for precise fuel delivery.
It would be like say you took a big swig of milk and THEN found out it was rotten. You flinch, gag, spit, make an ugly face, and maybe get pissed off.[/quote]
Hmm, so you think the EGR valve is to blame for most of those codes? That was going to be my next order of business (because its obviously a problem). I know that something is causing all of those codes, probably one or two things. Anyways, thanks for the response.[quote=”Ezyalb” post=118935]2000 Chevy S10 2.2L
I have a cold weather crank no start issue.
I have proper fuel pressure, I have spark, I have a full battery. Starter cranks powerfully but will not fire.
Checked plugs they did not look flooded; dry tanish brown in color. They are also new oem
12.5v at battery which is a Duralast Gold less then a year old.
I have tried starting with pedal pushed to floor, with no success.
I have tried turning key to ON position multiple times before starting.
No vacuum leaks.
Engine light reads bad O2 sensor bank 1, & intermittent TPS (TPS is new)
Had problem today at 30F
All electrical connectors are tight and have dielectric grease
5w30 oil
Full tank of gas
I have not checked compression
Just seems weird that I only have this problem in colder weather.
Any ideas? Help Please I’m at a lost and need to be able to get to work :side:
-Thanks in advance.[/quote]
Have you tried checking your fuel pressure? Sometimes cars will have trouble starting in the cold if they have a fuel pump that is slowly starting to go going out.edit: I see you already checked the fuel pressure
[quote=”Ezyalb” post=118935]2000 Chevy S10 2.2L
I have a cold weather crank no start issue.
I have proper fuel pressure, I have spark, I have a full battery. Starter cranks powerfully but will not fire.
Checked plugs they did not look flooded; dry tanish brown in color. They are also new oem
12.5v at battery which is a Duralast Gold less then a year old.
I have tried starting with pedal pushed to floor, with no success.
I have tried turning key to ON position multiple times before starting.
No vacuum leaks.
Engine light reads bad O2 sensor bank 1, & intermittent TPS (TPS is new)
Had problem today at 30F
All electrical connectors are tight and have dielectric grease
5w30 oil
Full tank of gas
I have not checked compression
Just seems weird that I only have this problem in colder weather.
Any ideas? Help Please I’m at a lost and need to be able to get to work :side:
-Thanks in advance.[/quote]
Have you tried checking your fuel pressure? Sometimes cars will have trouble starting in the cold if they have a fuel pump that is slowly starting to go going out.edit: I see you already checked the fuel pressure