Compare list 0

[Pat]

yay! fuse or relay for the win, although sometimes the fuse and or relay will go bad for a reason, on the other side of the coin sometimes they go bad because they r a hunk of…. anyways happy u got it sorted.

Pat

[Pat]

yay! fuse or relay for the win, although sometimes the fuse and or relay will go bad for a reason, on the other side of the coin sometimes they go bad because they r a hunk of…. anyways happy u got it sorted.

Pat

[Pat]

Happy you found a good shop to rebuild your trans, congratz on getting your truck back up and running healthy again.

[Pat]

Happy you found a good shop to rebuild your trans, congratz on getting your truck back up and running healthy again.

[Pat]

Left window open and double posted, sorry

[Pat]

Left window open and double posted, sorry

[Pat]

Does your car have AC? If so, turn it on and see if the fan spins up. If so you probably have a bad fan relay.

Hope this helps you out

Pat.

[Pat]

Does your car have AC? If so, turn it on and see if the fan spins up. If so you probably have a bad fan relay.

Hope this helps you out

Pat.

[Pat]

Bad gas smell in exhaust usually is a rich condition. ” i believe this was stated above” If you are just looking for stuff you can try on the cheap, I recommend back probing your M.A.F. to make sure the voltage is correct, and also cleaning the MAF. You can also test your O2 Sensors by grounding the V meter to the “nut” on the side,pinch the ground probe in between a vice and the metal housing or nut of the O2 snesor, and probing the feedback wire that communicates with the ECM. on a 1 or 2 wire system this is easy to do. After connecting the Volt meter heat your O2 sensor tip with a propane torch, you should get up to @ least 1V DC when you remove the heat from it, the voltage should start dropping pretty much Immediately. That is a couple of the common problems for a rich condition. The topic mentioned Lean, I must have missed something somewhere, because without a CEL saying lean condition, a bad gas smell is usually a rich condition. However if the MAF or O2 sensor is malfunctioning, it can show lean but be running rich from the computer trying to over compensate.
the only common thing in this equation is a Volt meter, (which you can pic up on the cheap from about 9 dollars to 20 dollars, or some MAF sensor cleaner. pretty cheap way of checking it out without actually just throwing parts at it.

P.S. If you have a rough idle I would check for a Vacuum leak also.

Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day.

PAT

[Pat]

Bad gas smell in exhaust usually is a rich condition. ” i believe this was stated above” If you are just looking for stuff you can try on the cheap, I recommend back probing your M.A.F. to make sure the voltage is correct, and also cleaning the MAF. You can also test your O2 Sensors by grounding the V meter to the “nut” on the side,pinch the ground probe in between a vice and the metal housing or nut of the O2 snesor, and probing the feedback wire that communicates with the ECM. on a 1 or 2 wire system this is easy to do. After connecting the Volt meter heat your O2 sensor tip with a propane torch, you should get up to @ least 1V DC when you remove the heat from it, the voltage should start dropping pretty much Immediately. That is a couple of the common problems for a rich condition. The topic mentioned Lean, I must have missed something somewhere, because without a CEL saying lean condition, a bad gas smell is usually a rich condition. However if the MAF or O2 sensor is malfunctioning, it can show lean but be running rich from the computer trying to over compensate.
the only common thing in this equation is a Volt meter, (which you can pic up on the cheap from about 9 dollars to 20 dollars, or some MAF sensor cleaner. pretty cheap way of checking it out without actually just throwing parts at it.

P.S. If you have a rough idle I would check for a Vacuum leak also.

Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day.

PAT

[Pat]

In my very humble opinion, i would probably not pay anyone to rebuild it, unless you upgraded the clutch packs, and added a shift improvement kit. it will shift harder and wear the clutches out less.
But a better option if you are on a pretty strict budget like yours truly would be a bone yard trans. Just find a Chevy with a compatible trans, and purchase it. Most bone yards will honor the deal, if it doesn’t work they will swap it for you. Before you install it in your ride, drain it and check for metal shavings on the magnet in the pan. “if i has one” also check to see if the fluid that comes out is milky. I would also make sure the lines that run to the cooler are not obstructed. Would be a shame to burn up your “new” trans. But the most cost effective is bone yard! Put it in yourself of course, 0 labor cost is always the way to go. While you are picking it out. BE PICKY, there are millions of these trucks on the road and more than a few have met an untimely end do to a wreck or whatever, so the lower miles on it the better. have a good one. I just really don’t trust “rebuild” places. Personally I have had bad experiences with them in the past. So anything I can do myself I do. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying all rebuild places are crap. There are probably many, many, many, good ones out there for every 1 bad one. But my luck is I always seem to get the bad one. 🙁 “And” if you are feeling adventurous you can rebuild your OLD trans With upgraded parts in your spare time, and at your convenience, Just get a good step by step manual on your trans, and take your time.

[Pat]

In my very humble opinion, i would probably not pay anyone to rebuild it, unless you upgraded the clutch packs, and added a shift improvement kit. it will shift harder and wear the clutches out less.
But a better option if you are on a pretty strict budget like yours truly would be a bone yard trans. Just find a Chevy with a compatible trans, and purchase it. Most bone yards will honor the deal, if it doesn’t work they will swap it for you. Before you install it in your ride, drain it and check for metal shavings on the magnet in the pan. “if i has one” also check to see if the fluid that comes out is milky. I would also make sure the lines that run to the cooler are not obstructed. Would be a shame to burn up your “new” trans. But the most cost effective is bone yard! Put it in yourself of course, 0 labor cost is always the way to go. While you are picking it out. BE PICKY, there are millions of these trucks on the road and more than a few have met an untimely end do to a wreck or whatever, so the lower miles on it the better. have a good one. I just really don’t trust “rebuild” places. Personally I have had bad experiences with them in the past. So anything I can do myself I do. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying all rebuild places are crap. There are probably many, many, many, good ones out there for every 1 bad one. But my luck is I always seem to get the bad one. 🙁 “And” if you are feeling adventurous you can rebuild your OLD trans With upgraded parts in your spare time, and at your convenience, Just get a good step by step manual on your trans, and take your time.

[Pat]

Temp sensor. The pathfinder has 2. One for coolant and another that is actually located in the lower intake manifold ” I think” it will cause issues such as this. If you start the truck and it runs good until it warms up then acts up. It could be this sensor or the MaF. Also I wouldn’t Rule out the Knock sensor. If you have the FSM find the knock sensor harness connector it should be on the passenger side of the engine compartment and ohm it out. The “ideal” or middle of the road reading on it is 470K ohms. so u can find the Upper and lower range of it with some reverse average. If the knock sensor is bad or is going bad it will just randomly retard your timing even though there isn’t actually a “knock” detected.

Hope this helped you out.

Pat

[Pat]

Temp sensor. The pathfinder has 2. One for coolant and another that is actually located in the lower intake manifold ” I think” it will cause issues such as this. If you start the truck and it runs good until it warms up then acts up. It could be this sensor or the MaF. Also I wouldn’t Rule out the Knock sensor. If you have the FSM find the knock sensor harness connector it should be on the passenger side of the engine compartment and ohm it out. The “ideal” or middle of the road reading on it is 470K ohms. so u can find the Upper and lower range of it with some reverse average. If the knock sensor is bad or is going bad it will just randomly retard your timing even though there isn’t actually a “knock” detected.

Hope this helped you out.

Pat

[Pat]

Also on these trucks i think you need to do a crank position sensor relearn, whenever u change the sensor. read something about it looking for info on what that plug could be. :cheer: dealer can do it with a computer if there is no manual way to make the truck do it. Maybe in the FSM. good luck

[Author]

Replies