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steven jacobsen

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Viewing 15 replies - 136 through 150 (of 179 total)
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  • in reply to: 1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 – Coolant Loss #497155
    steven jacobsen
    Participant

      If you jam enough pressure to it and finish off the gasket then it is bad. Only takes a couple pounds more than normal pressure to do that. With how common those gaskets are for going bad and how easy they are to change I would just change them. There is an “updated” gasket available.

      in reply to: 1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 – Coolant Loss #498559
      steven jacobsen
      Participant

        If you jam enough pressure to it and finish off the gasket then it is bad. Only takes a couple pounds more than normal pressure to do that. With how common those gaskets are for going bad and how easy they are to change I would just change them. There is an “updated” gasket available.

        in reply to: What is a good air compressor for a DIY Mechanic? #496917
        steven jacobsen
        Participant

          I set up a system for a friend that might help you. I got a 20 gallon pig tank and put a shut off valve on a “T” fitting. doubled the size of his tank and now he has a pig tank always full. made a world of difference the odd time he ran his die grinder.

          in reply to: What is a good air compressor for a DIY Mechanic? #498280
          steven jacobsen
          Participant

            I set up a system for a friend that might help you. I got a 20 gallon pig tank and put a shut off valve on a “T” fitting. doubled the size of his tank and now he has a pig tank always full. made a world of difference the odd time he ran his die grinder.

            in reply to: 2004 Ford Expedition 5.4 rough idle #496911
            steven jacobsen
            Participant

              sorry to be the bearer of possably bad news, still could be something simple, just saying what i know as common, i have done a bunch of them. If you check it out and it is then DO NOT get a wrecker engine, proper rebuild for sure.

              in reply to: 2004 Ford Expedition 5.4 rough idle #498274
              steven jacobsen
              Participant

                sorry to be the bearer of possably bad news, still could be something simple, just saying what i know as common, i have done a bunch of them. If you check it out and it is then DO NOT get a wrecker engine, proper rebuild for sure.

                in reply to: 2004 Ford Expedition 5.4 rough idle #496888
                steven jacobsen
                Participant

                  Yup, that’s what they do. It just drops the pressure enough to mess with the variable cam timing used on the 5.4 from 2004 to 2008

                  in reply to: 2004 Ford Expedition 5.4 rough idle #498264
                  steven jacobsen
                  Participant

                    Yup, that’s what they do. It just drops the pressure enough to mess with the variable cam timing used on the 5.4 from 2004 to 2008

                    in reply to: 2000 Olds Alero leaky brake caliper/stuck slides #496887
                    steven jacobsen
                    Participant

                      If you get a “loaded” caliper it comes with the bracket and then just unbolt the bracket and all, dont worry about the seized slides that will take all day to maybe get freed up

                      in reply to: 2000 Olds Alero leaky brake caliper/stuck slides #498263
                      steven jacobsen
                      Participant

                        If you get a “loaded” caliper it comes with the bracket and then just unbolt the bracket and all, dont worry about the seized slides that will take all day to maybe get freed up

                        in reply to: 2004 Ford Expedition 5.4 rough idle #496883
                        steven jacobsen
                        Participant

                          It is a well known problem, not enough oil pressure to the timing chain tensioner. Usually caused by bad oil pump or physical wear in the engine, or partly plugged oil passages, and sometimes bad tensioner. will probably get a code for the cam sensor eventually. Last customer i had with that problem didn’t like what i said so he took it to another shop and i was right, they are replacing his engine now.
                          There are other possable reasons but that’s the big one.

                          in reply to: 2004 Ford Expedition 5.4 rough idle #498257
                          steven jacobsen
                          Participant

                            It is a well known problem, not enough oil pressure to the timing chain tensioner. Usually caused by bad oil pump or physical wear in the engine, or partly plugged oil passages, and sometimes bad tensioner. will probably get a code for the cam sensor eventually. Last customer i had with that problem didn’t like what i said so he took it to another shop and i was right, they are replacing his engine now.
                            There are other possable reasons but that’s the big one.

                            in reply to: hi #496866
                            steven jacobsen
                            Participant

                              that depends on who touched them last and how they were put on. impact with lower pressure to start then compressor builds back up to full by the time you get to the last wheel then the torque will be different for every nut. the possabilities are endless.
                              long story short, use a torque wrench every time and no worries, and if you see a shop just ram the nuts on with an impact then get that written down on the work order so they might be on the hook for broken studs that show up next time you take them off.

                              once a stud has been overtightened it is too late, the damage is done, loosening and retorquing will not help

                              in reply to: hi #498237
                              steven jacobsen
                              Participant

                                that depends on who touched them last and how they were put on. impact with lower pressure to start then compressor builds back up to full by the time you get to the last wheel then the torque will be different for every nut. the possabilities are endless.
                                long story short, use a torque wrench every time and no worries, and if you see a shop just ram the nuts on with an impact then get that written down on the work order so they might be on the hook for broken studs that show up next time you take them off.

                                once a stud has been overtightened it is too late, the damage is done, loosening and retorquing will not help

                                in reply to: What is a good air compressor for a DIY Mechanic? #496862
                                steven jacobsen
                                Participant

                                  Alot depends on your use of a compressor. The one Eric has is a great size but me personally I prefer an oiled compressor over a dry pump. Longer life and less noise. If you are just giving shots with an impact a small tank is fine. To let an air ratchet or die grinder sing for a while 20 gal or more for sure. Electricity is important. If you have crappy hydro then you are limited to a smaller pump.
                                  I will only have a 230 volt 60 gal 14 cfm at minimum but it gets used alot and makes me money. One advantage to a big proper compressor is that it will last most people forever.

                                Viewing 15 replies - 136 through 150 (of 179 total)
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